SLIXK

Sweet I’ll find time to do that

Obviously im waiting for the gurus (you guys) to reply, what is more frowned upon, remaking a thread that’s already been made in the past or replying to on old thread. Idk lol

What fuse ?

I’m having the same issue.. when parking etc, but when the issue (4wd lock?) it makes the car vibrate under acceleration, I’m pretty sure who ever did my auto-manual conversion also used the wrong oils maybe? Could it be worth it for me to try this solution. Mine is also rs4v, I’ve never had this issue till post manual conversion.

Really want to know how to make my headlights look like this or where I can source it or what it even is ?

My car started doing the vibration at the pedal now and under accelerating a total of 2 times now, even when turning car off then turning the key back on I could feel the thuds well it was turning over. Weird as. I do have a leak at my transfer case (manual) could it my fluids are low?

Damn, the factory ones are pretty ugly, these take it to another level of clean. Though 😩

No idea ?

source for these ?

Dayum, how does it feel? I want big brakes but I also want nice specs when I rebuild my vskf 😩

Shot bro, and yeah i haven’t gotten a cert before, so this will be interesting.

Setrab oil cooler bro, not sure what relocation kit was used, but filter is right inside the arch of the right wheel behind the plastic. I’m also I’m based in New Zealand so not sure if the cert stuff isthe same or not but I will let you know how it goes.

Manually converted about just under a year ago, loved driving it but was ready to chuck in some big boy parts. Started with plazmaman half intake, which made the car terrible to drive. Waited a few months for more gold and then bought hot side parts then got them fitted with fabrication including custom intake, intercooler pipes, washer fluid, power steering, overflow tank and catch can. After that I needed a bunch of lines and a whole fuel system overhaul and fluids for new ball bearing turbo. I decided I might as well upgrade oil cooler, re-located oil filter to a better spot. After all that was done it was time for a haltech plug in play kit with supporting sensors, also have ic7 wiring all done, just need to leave old cluster in to sort out my 4WD light which is still haunting me. Which leaves my next goal which is to sort that out and cert the car. That hopefully shouldn’t take too long because I’m going to build my head next.

After market ecu fixed this issue

No more rev hang, no idea what fixed it but all bolt ons brand new and ecu fitted with tune

It works.

My rb25 det neo TPS is fried, anyone know if the DE Neo one will work fine?

I used will it fit website like the reply below shows, it’s about 1.77 cm out more but look at my car at the moment, I think it may work the car still has a bit lower to go as it’s not wheel to fenders yet, guards also untouched. IMG_3372.MOV

Has anyone had any experience fitting 18x10.5 20p on the rear of their 4wd (non-hicas) Stageas? I currently have 18x9.5 25p all round and they fit nicely, but I really want the aggressive profile of the 10.5 for the rears. My 4wd system is physically disengaged so a stagger set up isn’t a problem for my stagea at this time. I’ve got Bc golds coilovers & would camber arms help with the fitment?

Back onto this thread, how can I check to confirm that the neutral switch and clutch switch is hooked up?? Maybe this problem is also linked to my new throttle body problems ?

Im assuming it’s 72mm since I paid $585 through the workshop and it matches the size/price on the website..

I’m on stock ecu and stock MAF, I have haltech ready to go in when hotside is installed just waiting on appointments. Maybe the tuner will be able to tell me ?

How can I access this data, I’m still on factory ecu…

So once tuned it should be fine surely ?

I didn’t carry out the work, one of the performance shops here in NZ did. But the Car idles fine if that helps..