SLIXK

Anyone have experience driving with this on their stagea without a tune? So basically the car stalls easily in first gear and acceleration is choppy in the low rpm’s once the car gets going it’s fine though. Is it just the fact that it doesn’t know what to do with all the extra air through the bigger throttle body?

I was told by a few it’s eyelet so I just purchased eyelet ones, will have to see when they arrive.

Anyone know what type the RS4V uses I want to purchase bc golds, and give it to the shop that currently has my car to install it for me with new wheels. RS4V

I wanna run 18x9.5 +33 offset on my rs4V (auto 4wd) Will it fit okay? I’ll probably be getting coil overs, etc when it’s installed with a cert.

Lol don’t worry about that, I’m hitting the threshold for unopened rb25, and will go rb30 next year 🤣👌

Well, I want my engine bay presentable as RBs have the best setups for a clean looking engine, a purple belt and clear cover won’t hurt, maybe the pocket. I paid an extra $400-500 for a polished ffp. So I’m definitely gonna be showing people my set up mainly friends but it’s also gonna put a smile on my face. Just like how I paid an extra $300 for t51r mod on my turbo housing. All for show 🤣

Okay, I’ll just get a HKS belt at 100ks then and clear timing cover 😎

Nvm, cas covers the exhaust gear anyways 🤦‍♂️ That sucks lol

Why not? Hks exhaust cam with clear timing cover

How sick would it look tho, might just get exhaust gear, still, does anyone know if it hks one works with stagea?

Okay I understand now, there’s no need for adjustable cam on inlet but I can do it for the exhaust side. I really just wanted it for looks. Now I’m rethinking because I’ll only have one after market cam gear now on exhaust side…

So would Tomei gears work with neo vct

Anyone know if the hks cam gears that fit the gtrs work on the neo stagea, I’m changing my belt and want to get gears at the same time. Stagea isn’t in the stated compatibility list but the heading is rb 20,25&26. The tomei cams on the other hand stagea is listed.

Damn, so how do we test if the canister needs to be replaced?

Did turning g-sensor to factory position help?

Just got quoted $465 including gst for the canister, does this sound right? I wasn’t expecting it to be that expensive…

Might just look into buying the canister to eliminate that potential.

Never personally watched drifting before, but that looks clean.

Sweet can you directly tell me what fuse to pull and if I need to flush the attessa fluid? I will tell my fabricator to pull the driveshaft for me because he’ll be sending the car straight to tuner for the dyno after fabrication.

Is the canister refillable or would I just purchase a new one? Does Nissan still make them? Is it easy to replace?

I’ve never heard any clicking noises before. Shop said they’ll ask the sparky who’s relocating my battery to have a look if he can find something wrong! But he did say he will chuck it on the hoist when he gets it and test if all 4 wheels spin.

It’s me again with another problem (face palm) So I’ve had my stagea for around 8 months now, pretty much from since I’ve had it the 4WD Light has been on and off intermittently. Last scan said “pressure sw [on failure]” not sure which ecu they scanned but I didn’t muck around and ordered an after market pressure switch from Frenchies Performance Garage had it installed with my manual conversion. 4WD light was still there, mechanic told me they bled the system and it still wouldn’t work and they think power is not going to the pump or something… so I took it for another scan at my local and they said there was no error code just gearbox code so I’m assuming they scanned the main ecu and not the attessa ecu, but did say the 4wd light was gone. But like I said it’s intermittent, it came back after a long drive. So any ideas what I can do next i really want to get the car on the dyno this month. I’ve also tried pumping all tyres equally as front left was low pressure and still, 4wd light is intermittently active. Also the atessa fluid is always at the max line doesn’t change when car is on or after a drive. Car also has a slight ringing noise towards the rear wheels on either side that doesn’t change in volume or pattern it’s just a constant ring, I don’t know for sure if it comes on when 4wd light is on but the noise is also intermittent. (If that helps) Car is in the shop getting parts installed so I can’t do much at the moment but hoping for some ideas. This was the first scan error code not sure which ECU

So anyone else been doing it this way? What’s the correct way these days 🤣my atessa is playing up and I want to sort my dyno day out instead of going back and forth with diagnostic trying to fix the attessa system..

I’ll get pic tommorow! When you say might be an issue, do you mean I may need an alignment or will alignments be hard to do.

Is it okay to still use the cross member if it’s got a slight bend/curve. I’m first owner and car was imported from Japan but didn’t see this. A mechanic showed me with the hoist and I was wondering if they’re allowed through compliance with that lol. The bend is inwards with the bend tip facing up towards the rest of the car, it’s very slight.