SLIXK

Will try this a good day, maybe today lol.

Would the neutral switch not being connected cause these symptoms I’ve described?

IMG_2683.MOV This is out of gear and stationary, it was the like this when it was auto too.

Yep hangs longer from 3rd or 4th to neutral and releasing clutch sometimes it stays at a certain RPM like 1200 until the car comes to a complete stop.

So I’ve finally manually converted my stagea (r33 gtr box) with an Exedy heavy duty clutch. When up shifting gears there’s a hang and slow rpm drop which doesn’t feel right (it’s not that bothersome) but I’m just curious if this is right. *For example, starting from 1st gear, I accelerate to about 3200 RPM, gas off and clutch in, shift from 1 to 2. At this point RPM needs to be around 2000 to match. But even after I finished shifting, RPM usually still much higher than 2000, I have to wait a little to let it drop before I let clutch out, or I may hear clunk drive train noise due to sudden torque shock from higher than needed RPM* I copied the above paragraph from a different forum regarding a completely different platform but that best explains my experience. I’m currently thinking it could have something to do with the Auto ECU being retained in the conversion or plainly because of the Heavy Duty clutch. Also, would haltech be able to control this issue as that will be my standalone soon enough.

So light could be on because of uneven tyre pressure? Would that apply to just the rear tyres though.

Definitely faster than expected. I sourced it from Australia and I’m from NZ.

Mine is noisy in most gears and even when pulling it

Just finished my manual conversion on my 25det stagea and running a new exedy hd single plate clutch and light weight flywheel. Coincidence? I’m using the r33 gtr equivalent gearbox…

Anyone here relocated their battery or know if there’s a suitable spot in the boot that’s concealed for a relocation?

So what happens to the afm/maf physically?

I’ve ordered all the good fruits for my stock rb25 neo stagea (turbo, manifold & intake) will get haltech and fuel management done by tuners, but there’s one thing I don’t know anything about which is the stock AFM. My goal is atleast 300 KW atws. Basically do I need to upgrade my AFM to like a Z32 or can I just get a MAF delete. Unless the haltech ecu controls the airflow data on its own? 🤷‍♂️ lol

Found one

Long shot but anyone hiding one of these in their closet, I would be keen to buy it and ship to NZ!

Old man lost my cap for my series 2. Anyone know what cap I’m looking for? I see one called Nissan Fuel Cap? Are most petrol Nissan the same? I need to buy one asap…

Fark I get down time in my auto, maybe it needs a service or upgrade lol.. 2nd to 3rd is so shit

Mean bro, imagine how 300 atw would feel 🥶

Hey bro what’s your mod list? How much did your engine build cost aswell?

Jeeze, rebuilding an engine looks hard lol. I mean if it’s your trade to build engines, it may be easy but to the average Joe it is overwhelming. I’m definitely paying someone to do mine in future. Good luck with your build!

Btw, what a/r on that turbo, and is ur engine stock internals?

Lmao I love the attitude on this forum. If you any of ya wanna scrap let’s go…

Did you relocated your power steering tank or does it fit without relocation.

here’s a pic