weikleenget

I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car

I saw the s15 version but will it be enough force for my clutch? I guess just repairing the booster is the best option

We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?

Hi again all, I’ve tried doing some searching on the topic but couldn’t find the answer I’m looking for. I deleted my clutch booster because it had an air leak and was squealing like a hog, and now my clutch has very poor pedal feel and the friction zone is way too small, so I believe I need a bigger diameter clutch master cylinder to compensate for not using the booster. I found a Wilwood option that’s 3/4” for a good price and will fit my 3AN clutch line, but all the firewall adapters I see online such as RB factory or Chase Bays are listed as RWD only (GTST/GTS). Link below. https://rbfactory.shop/products/nissan-to-wilwood-girling-clutch-master-cylinder-adapter My question is if these adapters will also fit a GTR, and if anyone has experience using a 3/4” CMC without the booster, my clutch is a Nismo coppermix twin plate. Thanks, always appreciate the advice!

Hi all, A little back story, my AWD hasn’t been working since the car was taken out of storage but today after changing all the low and high pressure lines and bleeding the system, I was able to get power to the front wheels. Big progress! Issue is that the torque gauge is showing 40-50% in all driving conditions and front wheels are always driving even when the car is on stands. The OE front ABS speed sensors were damaged when we deleted ABS so my mechanic tried fitting some generic speed sensors, which I know are not calibrated the same as the OE. My first question is, does anyone know the part number of front LH/RH speed sensors and if there are any direct replacements besides OE Nissan? Those are apparently made of gold… Also, if power is always going to the front will the transfer case oil overheat, or otherwise will it cause damage? Thanks for the help

Yeah he tried a fix but it broke again. The cable is the exact same length and connection between 32 and 34, in other words no other modification is needed? The 34 cable is available for sale

Hi, the fuel door cable where it connects to the release latch in the cabin broke in my R32, I can’t seem to find this cable for sale. Does anybody know if the R34 version can work or another solution? Thanks

Yes the accumulator was changed new, I’ll try change the pressure switch and see if it clears the fault

I think it’s possible a defective part on the hydraulic pump like the pressure switch is causing the fault, I checked the troubleshooting flow chart again and it actually says hydraulic unit failure, so I guess that’s the pump, but my pump is cycling constantly so my thinking is either a valve was installed wrong or a part is not working properly Or the do-luck G sensor is defective?

My mistake yes it’s a 32 GTR, I’ll check it out but we did find the code 18 troubleshooting and all the referenced points have continuity, so the flow chart says the computer is faulty. Just seeing if anyone had a similar issue before shotgunning parts. Thanks

Hi all, trying to get my AWD system working properly after a soup to nuts rebuild. The computer is throwing codes 8, 9 (ABS was deleted) and also code 18 which seems to be the issue. Today we tried the bleed procedure and still doesn’t work. Here’s the description from the builder: on ignition the pump pumps oil, when the pressure reaches the desired value, the pump turns off and the oil is stored in the tank by closing the check valve, in our case it seems to me that it does not work and when the pump pumps up the pressure to the operating level , the sensor turns it off and the liquid is squeezed back through the pump into the tank, you can even hear the pump spinning in the opposite direction, the pressure decreases and the sensor turns on the pump again, and this all repeats endlessly. The AWD system worked after I bought the car but not since the rebuild. I changed the G sensor to the Do-Luck unit, maybe that could also be the issue? It’s a pain to change so we haven’t tried it yet Hopeful to get this worked out, I really wanted an AWD skyline. Thanks 🙏

Hi, we had to do some engine bay reorganizing and still need to mount the A/C filter (long canister connected to system, I think it’s a filter? Pictured below) Can anyone confirm what are the fittings for connections 1. 2. 3. 4 in the parts blowout here? Thanks! It’s hot as hell in Florida right now

Ok thanks. Aside from the mess it’s just a pain to get to the filter and the GReddy block has a built in thermostat to activate the external oil cooler, so seems like a no brainer unless there’s a better alternative The HKS is a bigger core, is there any other advantage? I may just go with a Chase Bays universal kit and fab brackets into the fender liner location

Hi all, Analysis paralysis in reviewing all the options (US domestically available) for oil filter relocations and external coolers. I think I like the design of the GReddy Taarks bolt-on block adapter, I'm just not sold on the GReddy filter relocation block (PN 12401114 with internal temp sensor) - does anyone know if you can mount any filter onto this block or only the tiny GReddy ones? Also, thoughts on the external GReddy cooler (PN NS1010G) ? Otherwise any better options that are widely available? I'm leaning towards the fender liner location. Thanks!

Sorry just to bring this knowledge to a solution for me, is this an issue for my power level? ~600bhp ~21-25psi boost mostly street with occasional track use Overall what’s currently planned: Head drain Dual catch can recirculating into sump (T’d together with head drain return, delivered back through the unused turbo oil return port as I’m going single turbo) Blocked PCV valve Tomei oil pan baffle Tomei oil restrictor N1 oil pump with billet gears Thermostatically activated external oil cooler Do I need to add this head breather? Where is it normally added? Can someone share a link to a thread with more info Thanks again, trying to avoid another spun bearing…