weikleenget

Hi all, A little back story, my AWD hasn’t been working since the car was taken out of storage but today after changing all the low and high pressure lines and bleeding the system, I was able to get power to the front wheels. Big progress! Issue is that the torque gauge is showing 40-50% in all driving conditions and front wheels are always driving even when the car is on stands. The OE front ABS speed sensors were damaged when we deleted ABS so my mechanic tried fitting some generic speed sensors, which I know are not calibrated the same as the OE. My first question is, does anyone know the part number of front LH/RH speed sensors and if there are any direct replacements besides OE Nissan? Those are apparently made of gold… Also, if power is always going to the front will the transfer case oil overheat, or otherwise will it cause damage? Thanks for the help

Yeah he tried a fix but it broke again. The cable is the exact same length and connection between 32 and 34, in other words no other modification is needed? The 34 cable is available for sale

Hi, the fuel door cable where it connects to the release latch in the cabin broke in my R32, I can’t seem to find this cable for sale. Does anybody know if the R34 version can work or another solution? Thanks

Yes the accumulator was changed new, I’ll try change the pressure switch and see if it clears the fault

I think it’s possible a defective part on the hydraulic pump like the pressure switch is causing the fault, I checked the troubleshooting flow chart again and it actually says hydraulic unit failure, so I guess that’s the pump, but my pump is cycling constantly so my thinking is either a valve was installed wrong or a part is not working properly Or the do-luck G sensor is defective?

My mistake yes it’s a 32 GTR, I’ll check it out but we did find the code 18 troubleshooting and all the referenced points have continuity, so the flow chart says the computer is faulty. Just seeing if anyone had a similar issue before shotgunning parts. Thanks

Hi all, trying to get my AWD system working properly after a soup to nuts rebuild. The computer is throwing codes 8, 9 (ABS was deleted) and also code 18 which seems to be the issue. Today we tried the bleed procedure and still doesn’t work. Here’s the description from the builder: on ignition the pump pumps oil, when the pressure reaches the desired value, the pump turns off and the oil is stored in the tank by closing the check valve, in our case it seems to me that it does not work and when the pump pumps up the pressure to the operating level , the sensor turns it off and the liquid is squeezed back through the pump into the tank, you can even hear the pump spinning in the opposite direction, the pressure decreases and the sensor turns on the pump again, and this all repeats endlessly. The AWD system worked after I bought the car but not since the rebuild. I changed the G sensor to the Do-Luck unit, maybe that could also be the issue? It’s a pain to change so we haven’t tried it yet Hopeful to get this worked out, I really wanted an AWD skyline. Thanks 🙏

Hi, we had to do some engine bay reorganizing and still need to mount the A/C filter (long canister connected to system, I think it’s a filter? Pictured below) Can anyone confirm what are the fittings for connections 1. 2. 3. 4 in the parts blowout here? Thanks! It’s hot as hell in Florida right now

Ok thanks. Aside from the mess it’s just a pain to get to the filter and the GReddy block has a built in thermostat to activate the external oil cooler, so seems like a no brainer unless there’s a better alternative The HKS is a bigger core, is there any other advantage? I may just go with a Chase Bays universal kit and fab brackets into the fender liner location

Hi all, Analysis paralysis in reviewing all the options (US domestically available) for oil filter relocations and external coolers. I think I like the design of the GReddy Taarks bolt-on block adapter, I'm just not sold on the GReddy filter relocation block (PN 12401114 with internal temp sensor) - does anyone know if you can mount any filter onto this block or only the tiny GReddy ones? Also, thoughts on the external GReddy cooler (PN NS1010G) ? Otherwise any better options that are widely available? I'm leaning towards the fender liner location. Thanks!

Sorry just to bring this knowledge to a solution for me, is this an issue for my power level? ~600bhp ~21-25psi boost mostly street with occasional track use Overall what’s currently planned: Head drain Dual catch can recirculating into sump (T’d together with head drain return, delivered back through the unused turbo oil return port as I’m going single turbo) Blocked PCV valve Tomei oil pan baffle Tomei oil restrictor N1 oil pump with billet gears Thermostatically activated external oil cooler Do I need to add this head breather? Where is it normally added? Can someone share a link to a thread with more info Thanks again, trying to avoid another spun bearing…

Have an N1 pump with billet Boundary gears. Debating a sump extension, is it really needed?

Hi all, I’ve been searching for the answer to this question but didn’t find, apologies if this is a dumb question. I plan on building my RB26 for ~500awhp somewhere in the 21-25psi range, stock internals, Tomei oil pan baffles and oil gallery restrictors. Question, is only 1 restrictor needed in the main feed galley on the block? thanks any other build tips appreciated!

Hi all, I’m in the middle of restoring my R32 GTR and have heard that the stock g sensor under the center console is prone to age and uses antiquated technology. Has anybody used the Do Luck digital g sensor with any success? Or any recommendations? I’m also curious if this unit would affect the stock ambient pressure in the attesa pump, because I would like to wire in a switch to the AWD fuse to go into RWD only on the fly, and I understand this only works with the R32 system that has no ambient pressure. Anybody can confirm? Thanks

Hi all. My GTR chassis is probably repairable but the rust is pretty bad. There’s a GTS25 in my area with a better frame, but I didn’t find any info if the chassis are the same / transferable. I understand GTST and GTR are close enough but what about GTS25? thanks!

Hi all, finally fixed my fuel cut issue it was a bad AFM, then I swapped the ECU the car came with (Mines tune) with a stock one. Turned the ignition on and the fuel pump primed but no dash lights or gauges worked (except fuel qty). Car started and ran poorly. Disconnected battery again and swapped back to the Mines ECU, same issue. I’m guessing a relay or fuse blew so I checked the ones which seemed relevant, fuse #7 and #23 tested fine. Any clues? I didn’t check all the fuses or any relays. Thanks.

Hi all, my RB26 has been having some engine issues which I think must be a boost leak. I plan on changing the turbo seals to troubleshoot but while I’m in there, what other service items could you recommend? Not looking to spend too much but I want to replace any hoses, seals, gaskets in that area. Intercooler piping is still in good shape. Engine compression is good and I’m looking to make the motor last as long as possible. Last timing belt service was done in Japan at 110k km, dunno when, but car has 140k now and belts look good

Hi all, could anyone help to confirm the differences between the different R32 GTR ECU part numbers I am seeing online? Most say they work for BNR32 but I want to make sure it will work before ordering. I have a non-N1 motor, 1990 model GTR. PN 23710-05U02 PN 23710-05U60 Any others I missed? Need to replace my old Mines tune and I want it back to stock config. Thanks

Correct

I’ll have to check fuel pressure and AFM voltage but boost won’t go positive. What I mean is the throttle loses all response above 2500rpm, pedal turns to mush and the car shakes

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded, and the car starts shuddering. It’s gotten significantly worse as the weather gets colder, and wasn’t an issue at all above 70*. I don’t think I have a misfire, had a compression test done and they tested all the cylinders everything was fine. Just happens when boost comes on in the cold

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings? Thanks!

Here’s a pic of what I’m looking for by the way

Hi all, Im hoping someone might have the small round plastic bit that surrounds the passenger window switch on the R32. Ive been scouring the web and can’t find this thing for sale without buying a whole door insert. Thanks, Alex