AtomicBomberMan

Gosh! Roy! a bit late now! theyre already in! what were the specs of his cams? and his configuration? what do you mean by cammy? it would depend on how the cams were dialed in wouldnt it? and wouldnt tune have a lot to do with it? This is a little too technical for me.

After what happened with the ACPT group buy!? No freakin way! Heres a hint, they run these shafts on the TITAN motorsports car. Thanks to Darren, he organised a group buy for a number of qld residents. He sent me a text tonight and it went something like this...... Hey buddy...... ive got a pressie for you...... its black.... long..... and hard....... and it will make your eyes water and nose bleed. I was too afraid to text him back!

Ok, next is valve selection. At one stage, when the dollar was good (remember those days?) the NAPREC (Nagoya Precision) valve system was looking almighty attractive. But being 1.5mm oversize sorta changed my mind. This would require the valve seats to be redone. Extra money i did not wish to spend. I was told that if i were to go 1mm oversize, i would be able to keep the existing seats. By this time the dollar wasnt a pretty sight. The Ferrea valves were very expensive, and any Japanese stuff is definitely out of the question. I had read on the forums somewhere that some hardcore mx-5's were experiencing a lot of problemts with their valvetrain. They had tried many different brands and still ran into problems. As it pans out, someone had tried the supertech products and all of a sudden these were all the rave! After speaking to Will at John HIll Engineering, he confirmed that he had used these before with no problems at all and very good results. I decided I would try these on my car. Pricing was very reasonable too. The Supertech intake valves were stainless with a black nitride finish. The Exhaust valves were made from inconnel, a material which handles heat better than stainless and has been used in F1 cars for quite some time. Side by side Underneath Part numbers etc for those that are interested I missed this pic of the Spring and Retainer specs. Supertech specifies to use the standard spring seats for the dual valve springs. However they did not specify what to use for the inner spring. Luckily Will from JHH made something up with GTiR seats.

Thanks Nick, from what we can barely see, it looks good. hahahah just kidding. From what i know, These are a forged crank. they are not full counterweighted ie 8 counterweights instead of 12. Still a very nice crank though. What pistons did you end up choosing for your kit? cooling channel? Please add better pictures when you get them. I'm sure the rest of the members would love to see it!

Valve guides.... so much choice! This is a set of HKS valve guides i bought. These havent been in production for years! Check manufacture date on the box! Anyway I found out the hard way that Japanese valves are all 0.5mm oversize. And VERY hard. If you bash these into your head, it will almost certainly crack it. So these need to be machined down on the outside for fitment. This is according to JHH engineering anyway. More money i didnt intend on spending. The inner part of the guide needed to be reemed (is that the word?) out a little too for the valves to fit. This little excercise cost approx $300 and a set of Supertech guides would have cost about the same! Oh well.... i'll know next time! (if there is a next time)

hmmm... alright, the cams will be held in by Tomei cam cap stud kit. I was told i needed these if i were intending on revving the engine. I found these to be fairly reasonable as ARP would have been pretty much the same price. No doubt the Tomei ones are made by ARP too.

BB thats good to hear. I wasnt totally sure on these in the beginning. Its the first time ive really taken American stuff on board. It used to always be Japanese this and Japanese that. At the end of the day, its the $$$$ that do the talking.

Ok, while the head was away getting ported, i needed to organise the parts to go into it. The first purchase i made was the camshafts and springs. At the time, i was a pretty big fan of the apexi stuff. This is going a while back now. Back before they went under and were still making some great parts other than air filters. The Mines 34GTR has always been a favourite of mine. A perfect combination of street and circuit. I think this would be a good role model for my car. I know i could never replicate what Mines have done, but at least i feel it paints a good picture as to which direction to head in. The Mines car is probably one of if not the main reasons why i stayed 2600cc. The Mines car ran fairly small bumpsticks with mild duration and moderate lift. I had at one stage a set of VMAX cams which were 260 degree and 11.35mm lift! These were too wild for my setup. These cams were more suited for drag racing. In the end i settled for the Apexi GT camshafts. These cams were made by Apexi with apexi cast into the side of the cam. At that time, it was a fairly big thing. A few companies then were using Nissan blanks that were ground to their specs. Im pretty sure JUN and Tomei still do. You'll find N2 cast at the end of the JUN and Tomei cams. Things may have changed since then though. The GT spec cams use a standard base circle, so different buckets were not required. INTAKE 260 DEGREE 10.3MM LIFT / EXHAUST 264 DEGREE 10.6MM LIFT I bought the Apexi GT Valve springs too. But later sold these for SUPERTECH DUAL VALVE SPRINGS. The Supertech stuff is Really nice. The Tomei typeC's are way too overpriced in my books. Gotta draw the line somewhere. Hopefully this will allow for higher revs. Supertech Titanium Retainers. Once again, the Japanese JUN equivalents were priced out of reach! Gotta get back to work. More head stuff later.

Oh sorry! I was watching a completely different channel! I thought you meant the bump in the exhaust port! duhhhh.... sorry mate. Yes, i left this alone. I notice a lot of the Japanese seem to have this removed. I'm not educated enough on this to really make a comment....................... DAZ! HELP! So Richard, with the heads that went onto your cars. What tangible effects can you comment on?

hmmm, interesting. what do you mean by remove squish on one side?

Awesome pics Richard! I had seen those pics before in your other thread. Very nice. The Japanese really know what theyre doing dont they! The pics of the headjob were very early in the port stage. Still quite a bit to go yet. I got a few more pics closer to the finished product. I'll put these up soon. Regarding the squish zones, I had these removed too. In your picture of the exhaust port before porting, I notice your headjob guy has drawn a mark of where the gasket finishes. There's quite a lot of material to remove. And that squish zone is all well within where the gasket finishes. This is probably why most of the headjob people remove it. I actually dont know what part the squish zone plays in the whole scheme of things. Having said that, all the big power heads that i have seen, none of them seem to retain that bump. I know that the actual finish of the port can have an effect on how the gasses move around. I have heard a coarser finish will aid better flow. Mine, i think, is a little on the smooth side. Once again, I think i'm splitting hairs.

SURE NICK! Please do! Please tell us a little bit about it too!

HAHAH Merli! NOW you're talkin! I like where youre headed but i sorta had something in mind already. Something like this perhaps? Always had a soft spot for MFG.... Mud Flap Girl....... or perhaps this?

Wow beer barron! look at those welds! Very nice! I had a trust sump also. but sold it for the very reasons you mentioned. The baffling could be better as you say. Im sure it works though. otherwise they wouldnt have sold so many units! Richard, I really dont mind your pics in my post! And that goes for everyone! As long as the pics are relevant PLEASE SHARE! I love to hear your ideas and to see what you guys are using! Pics tell a 1000 words so please TELL TELL TELL! Merli, can you please give us a brief outline on "BIG ANGRY BASTARD" please? IE TELL US WHATS IN YOUR CUPBOARD! People, meet MISS BNR32, Dazza's Missus. She also holds the reins...... Yes luv...... i know i know....... I'll hand you the keys after i take it round the block ok? I promise!

hahaha, so Andrew, from what i understand from reading your build thread, you are leaving your internals standard and trying to make as much power as you can from bolt on goodies? There is somthing youre not telling us right? You have a 50k cupboard somewhere dont you? hahahah

oh, and merli, i noticed that your sump seemed to be better finished too! Have a look at where the trap doors join to the sump on yours. at each end on yours is nice bolt. on mine however, its just a blob of weld! Whats the go!? Did yours leak from the Sump casting or did it leak from the welds?

Thanks merli, I'm definitely keeping a close eye on your build too. I'm so envious! Such an awesome build! There's just "something" about a tuff 32 isnt it! oooh.... goosebumps! hahaha I am really concerned about the sump as well! Did yours have the Red dye in it when you got it? Did you buy the whole thing from hi octane or did you DIY? It would be heartbreaking to see it leak, cos changing the sump is an engine out thing isnt it!?

Haha, phunky monkey, they do that to you. I hope they are worth what they weigh and cost for that matter! Ok, head is in Perth now with Andre, and the work commences. The head had all the standard bits removed, ie valves, springs retainers and buckets. Next it was bathed, checked for cracks, straightness and hardness. Before the porting could take place the standard valve guides were removed too. Here are some of the porting process pictures. (I only have a couple) Andre showed me this picture and said he had to compensate for some core shift. Er.... ok......Can anyone explain this? Intake ports...... getting there..... The piece between the throttles and the head was matched to a gasket (note red line) and ported as well. Ok..... back to work...... more on the head job later......

OK..... Back to the build. Back in the day when RB26 heads and sumps were not easily accessible, I opted to get them from Japan. I know now that theyre a dime a dozen, but im talking quite a few years back now. Anyway, as the process goes, a bare head off an R33 gtr and a brand new (removed off new engine) R34 gtr sump arrived from Japan. Once head arrived it went to Perth, to friend and ex X-Speed fabricator and i guess (im not sure of ones title who does port and polishing) "HEAD JOB GUY" Andre Veenendaal or better known as "Doctor Dre" who did a fantastic job of porting and polishing. If anyone would like his details, please PM me and I will pass you his details. He assures me he will look after anyone I refer! BCNR33 Head. In fairly good condition. Never skimmed. Valves were straight. These are the BEFORE pics. AFTER pics to come later in the thread. (I have to take some!) Newish (Removed off new engine) sump assembly from BNR34. This still had a new diff and the 3.545 diff gear inside. This was soon to be cut and mated up to a sump extension from Hi Octane Racing. I thought this was a better choice than the Trust sump extension. I chose this because of a few reasons. Most importantly more volume, and it utilized a trap door system rather relying on just extra volume alone. Overall finish (or lack of) of the HI Octane sump however, was only so-so. Casting was fairly rough, definitely not as pretty as the trust item. This is one of their new sumps too, which have HI-Octane cast into the front. If I had a choice, i probably would have gone without. the red stuff is a dye the put in to check for leaks. Ideally i would have liked to have gone the dry sump route like Darren and Matty. However when Daz gave me the breakdown of the dry sump system, i.e. 5 stage pump, modified sump, oil tank, breather tanks fittings and hoses etc I'll stick to old school for the time being thanks! Believe it or not, there is over 3k worth of JUST fittings and hoses in Daz's dry sump setup! I know i shouldnt be skimping on blood supply but not at the moment. Dazza on the other hand doesnt cut corners! Here, have a look at the pic i took under Daz's car. It pretty much speaks for itself. Sexy but hell exxy! Here is the sump extension. Its available pre welded or DIY. The pre-welded version is VERY expensive. And it is on an sump exchange basis only. Also the oil pickup needs to be extended too.

bigmike, i think kits can only get better. This nitto/je kit is a recent addition. Dont forget, although the japanese stuff is very good. The kits were designed a long time ago. You'll find probably a lot of the japanese manufacturers are slowing down or have stopped production on a lot of the RB26 stuff. Especially all the Hardcore stuff. The western world had a very late start on these cars(bar OZ) so i think with now with better understanding, technology and know how, things produced now could far surpass what the japanese had to offer at the time. I could be wrong though.

hahaha cheers mate. I edited as you added! thanks for the info Brad. I really dont like to comment if i dont know for sure.

I know its kinda off topic. But i thought i would put up for reference some pics of full counterweighted cranks that is on offer for the RB26. I do this because i actually bought and sold a number of cranks before i settled on the hks crank. So I guess you could say this was part of the my build process. Once again, i know a lot of you guys have probably seen it all before, this is for the newbies! From a quality point of view, i couldnt say that one was better than the other. When you pay that sort of money, there all much of a muchness. Anyway, Have a look at the different types and see what floats your boat. First up APEXI 2.6L Billet crank. Full counterweight. Knife edged. Heavy! Approx 25.5-26kgs No defining marks to say that it is Apexi has a number stamped on the side of first counterweight Tomei 2.6L Billet crank. Full counterweight. Knife edged. approx 24kgs No defining marks to say that it is TOMEI Crower 2.6L Billet crank. Full counterweight. NOT Knife edged! Bulky American thing! Never owned one of these so i dont know how much it weighs. Counterweights although not knife edged do look smaller than the weights on the japanese cranks. Has CROWER stamped on the front of first counterweight. Trust GREX 2.7L billet crank. Trust do not offer a 2.6L option. Has GREX laser etched onto one of the coutnerweights. Very nice crank. Quite a few cars have made big numbers using this crank. I have heard very good things about it. A good compromise. Extra displacement but maintaining revvy nature. Never owned one, so i dont know what it weighs. Seen one in the flesh though, good bit of gear. I wonder who makes this one? HKS STEP II 2.8L Forged crank. Full counterweighted. Has HKS marking on the side of first counterweight. Keen eyes will see the hks marking in the first pic. I had one of these but never weighed it! Its now in Daz's car! HKS STEP III 2.6L billet crank. Full counterweight. not knife edged but has metal removed from counterweights to save weight. Weight is approx 22kgs. approx 2kgs over standard. No defining marks to say that it HKS. has numbers engraved onto face of first counterweight. This crank is the one im using. It is no longer in production. The step 3 2.8L version looks exactly the same. Here is a recent addition to the billet crank world. This one is done by NITTO. I think it is a JV (joint venture) between NITTO and JE pistons. This is part of a 2.7L kit that they offer. Seems to be quite nice. Billet crank, full counterweighted. Laser etching on top of first weight for identification. Only knife edged near bottom of each lobe. A heavier crank though at 25.5kgs. The kit they offer is this crank, JE 87mm pistons, and I beam rods. The pistons have a very thick pin! What do you think? Thanks to Brad UNIQUE1 for these great pics of his 2.7L Jun full counterweight billet crank. The nitriding that they use (i think) gives the crank a black finish. Making these hell sinister and sexy. Pity once installed you cant see them! Maybe UNIQUE1 can fill in the blanks for me! Please tell us a little more and personal experiences with this crank. Any defining marks? There are quite a few more. But these are brands i never considered anyway. I know kakimoto racing do one too. I hope this information has been helpful. Please if i have made any errors, correct me!

Thanks for the encouragement guys. So happy to see there is so much interest. I will do my best to keep it as informative and as interesting as possible. You might have to excuse the accuracy at times of some of my technical explanations. At the end of the day its not me that is swingin the spanners. Daz is the one with all the knowledge. If anyone is unsure why i did this or that, please feel free to quiz. And I'll hit him up. Daz wont mind will ya mate!? Blitz, I was just thinking about your comment, and im sure merli will say the same, I thought white gtrs were the flavor of EVERY month! 9KRPM, "Reliable source" eh? care to elaborate? NickR33 All will be revealed. The oiling system is nothing special really. Nothing compared to all the other awesome builds in this section. I hope to have this as a semi daily driver/streeter/weekend racer or occasional track day warrior. Mr Keets, dyno sheet should be a while away yet. I'm really anxious to get it done though. As i said, the car has been sitting for almost 3 years now. and it was only in the last few months Ive gotten off my dot to do something about it. Slowly but surely. Can't afford to change my mind anymore. wrxkilla, ive seen your car too. NICE! i saw your car at the nissan datsun shindig a couple of weeks back. What happened to your 26? When can we see pics of your build!? Re the crank, I know the standard crank is a tuff bit of gear. If i were ever to do it again, i probably wouldnt buy a big dollar crank. Its total overkill for me. Everyone says i drive miss daisy. I guess i just like the idea of an rb26 reving like a HONDA! You know what they say, "TO BE OLD AND WISE...... YOU MUST FIRST BE YOUNG AND STUPID!" so here goes. unique1 The hks crank weighed about 22kgs. the JUN crank is very nice. Black and shiny! drool! I think to achieve that weight they removed weight in much the same way as the hks crank. but the jun goes all the way through am i right? It seems the APEXI crank is drawing all the attention. I'll put up a few reference pics of different cranks for people to help choose their cranks if they ever decide to get one.

Thanks SDEWY5, glad youre enjoying it. Getting a little worried you guys might think i may be overdoing it with the pics. too many? too much step by step stuff? Feedback please!

A new N1 block comes bare from factory. So i needed to buy one of these and one of these oil return piping and dipstick (sorry no photos) an important addition was a Tomei Oil Gallery Orafice. The existing one (2.0mm hole) was bashed deeper in, and the new Tomei one (1.5mm hole) was bashed in on top. This is to restrict the flow of the oil going to the head, keeping oil where it is needed most, in your sump. I downloaded the pic from the Tomei site to explain this better. I figure most people who frequent the motorsport section already know what this is. But just in case there are some newbies, i figure a explanation would be nice. Dazmo in his Nismo uniform showing us how to bash in a stock orafice. Photo taken Omori Factory in Nerang TOGO placed on top of stock orafice New TOGO bashed into place