AtomicBomberMan

Haha, cheers merli, I'm doing spunky monkey over your car too! For all those requesting specs, if i gave you the spec sheet, this thread would bore you all to tears! haha Its a photo diary! Specs will be revealed! Be patient! Thanks for all your interest guys. This has been quite a surprise for me. I guess i'll have to keep it going now. I lost a lot of photos from the beginning of the build, So i wont put up a step by step guide. I will put up what i have and bring you up to date. Here is a full pic of the HKS crank. The block was degreased, water blasted and blow dried. Once this was done, and the crank was clean, the crank was laid into the block on TOMEI bearings. Upon opening the Tomei bearings, the first thing that came to mind was, "hey! ive seen these before!" For those that have bought bearings before, see if this picture rings any bells? HINT: Pay particular attention to the finish of the tomei bearings. Find answer below pic. YUP! you guessed it. Tomei bearings are made by ACL. Tomei bearings are the ACL RACE SERIES BEARINGS. When I went to Hi Octane in Sydney to pick up some parts, they confirmed it! The ACL bearings are SO much cheaper! I very much doubt that ACL did anything specific for tomei bearings at all! The only difference is the burning sensation that remains from being bent over! One, two skip a few..... this is the part where i lost a lot of the pics. Anyway, here is a pic where the oil squirters have been put in, the crank is already in the block, and the rod and piston assemblies are being bolted to the journals. Oh, and there was a lot of plastigauging too, to check clearances. Most of the clearances in this engine are on the tighter side of things. Redline assembly lube was used throughout the assembly. Main stud kit is in. One of the studs needed to be cut and a groove cut in for tightening. This is done because one of the studs sits too high and will foul on part of the sump. Torque to stud specs. Dont forget the stud lube! Conrods are all bolted to crank Bottom end almost finished.

Now, what would an RB26 build be without its fair share of hiccups. I believe anyone that says a rb26 build went smoothly is sorta kinda... LYING. MY first hurdle was that both Daz and I had heard great things about cryogenics. Supposed to make metal stronger blah blah blah, so we both went to get our blocks cryoed. Both being virgins (the blocks that is), the cryoing process caused a lot of movement in the blocks. This in turn caused the tunnels to go out of alignment. This required a line hone which is quite an expensive process. Well, any money spent that you werent prepared for will always be expensive. Ok tunnel sorted. Next obstacle. Piston to bore clearance, yank pistons approx 4 thou. Jap pistons 2 thou! i wish i had of known that (or more importantly the machinist) before it was taken to 4 thou! Anyway, no easy solution here. I had to sell the block and get another. I was lucky my mate (who owns a shop) found a customer that had bought a stroker kit and was going to take it out to 87mm anyway. Three weeks later a new block had arrived from Japan. This time no cryogenics for me thanks. The tunnel was measured up and it was perfect. Better put in the ARP main studs and double check...... hmmm where are my main studs?.............IN THE OTHER BLOCK! Anyway, another few hundred dollars later, and another main stud kit later, the tunnel was measured up and it was still perfect. The bore needed to be honed to the right piston to bore clearance, cant afford anymore stuffups this time so STONE BROTHERS RACING did all the machining, with dummy head etc. Piston to bore finished up between 2-2.3 thou. All the other items ie clutch, crank, pistons and rods were all balanced by Dave at CRANKSHAFT ENGINEERING. Hopefully things go smoother from here on in.

Here are the rods i mated to the pistons. The reason I chose the Trust/Greddy H-beam rods for the over HKS ones was because the Trust rods are actually manufactured by Carrillo industries. I'm sure the HKS ones are no different, they would be just as strong and just as reliable. I think because carrillo have been in this game since day dot seemed to put my mind more at ease. These come with CARR bolts that never need to be replaced. Fancy packaging etc..... Once all its clothes were removed, this is what they looked like. Nothing like the sexy HKS rods. Looked boring and EAGLEish. (NO OFFENCE INTENDED TO THOSE THAT USE EAGLE RODS! im sure they're great too!) Nothing to indicate that they are from Carrillo except the CARR bolts. The new Trust rods have Carrillo and Greddy laser etched onto them. This was an older set that i bought yonks ago. The HKS rods really are sexy though. Here is one i prepared earlier. This is Darrens "Rod" used in his 2.8L engine.

thanks for the kind comments guys. I'll try to include as many pics as possible. A lot of them will probably be boring to a lot of you guys, cos most of my pics are of Darren slaving over my engine! I had lost a lot of the pics which may have been a good thing cos it was almost a step by step guide of how to put a 26 together! Anyway, I'll try to keep it interesting. Mr Keets, im not sure who actually makes the hks billet cranks. I know fandon made the apexi ones. I doubt many of the Japanese companies actually make their own cranks. Hks dont make the standard stroke 2.6L billet cranks anymore. If you want something similar to the hks one in a 2.6L, JUN make one that is very similar, with the scallopped counterweights. BIGMIKE thats a pretty good question! I dont see why not. Its probably one of the best moves Garrett ever made! I cant see the market being flooded with billet rb26 cranks though! haha but wouldnt that be awesome!? Everyone banging the 10000rpm rev limit on the way to buy bread and milk? There have been many times where ive gone off on a tangent regarding what parts to choose. Daz has brought me back down to earth. He's taught me a heck of a lot and has saved me a heap of money. Now parts are bought with thought in mind, not just, "that looks cool" Daz's philosophy, if youre going to do it, do it once and do it properly. You're spending money anyway, spend it properly so you'll never have to worry about what you just bought ever again. Now most of the parts have a reason behind them. I'll try to include these in the picture descriptions. Hmmm, next is conrod selection. Looking for pics, be back soon.

Unfortunately when it came to pistons there wasnt a whole lot of choice. Most of the Japanese manufacturers dont really cater for those who are building an engine with a new block and hence most of their pistons start at 87mm and even then a selected few do 86.5mm. To stay 86mm the only choice was HKS. I had a set of Apexi's that were 86.1mm, which would have been find as a light hone would have made them fit. These were VMAX pistons, once again, like the crank was designed with drag racing in mind. These were step 3 pistons and had 22mm pins. These also had a huge reliefs cut out of the top of the piston for very high lift camshafts (11.35mm and above) very nice piston but probably overkill for me. These were sold and in their place a set of 86mm HKS step 2 pistons with the 21mm pins. Apexi pics are just for reference. Sorry, I accidently deleted a ton of pics. these are the only pics i have of the HKS pistons.

I bought a brand new N1 block (actually this is my second one, more on that later) and thought that it would be a shame to bore out a brand new block to 86.5mm or 87mm. I wanted to keep the meat in the bores for extra strength.

Thanks for the kind words Angus and Merli and 9K. 9K you should have a thread too. Give us a run down on yours! I know yours isnt a regular coffee grinder either! Time to fill in the blanks buddy, you've kept us guessing long enough. You can't answer all the questions with "dont know, (wink)" forever mate! She's a long way to go yet. The engine parts list is quite long. I made a list of all the parts some time ago.In the time that the car has been sitting, i have had many change of hearts. I used to have a sort of of a fetish with Japanese parts. but in the last few years that has changed a bit. So that list i was talking about needs to be edited quite a bit! Cranks alone, i bought, sold and rebought 4 before i stayed with the one i have now. Tomei 2.6.... nice but too heavy. Apexi nice but heavier again! HKS step 2 2.8 (now in DAZ's car) hmmmm... i wanna stay 2.6L. FINALLY I bought a HKS step 3 full counterweight 2.6L billet crank. I chose this crank because on the counterweights (although not knife edged) had big scallops in them where they have removed the metal to keep the weight down. Here are some pics to show you what i mean. This is the Apexi V-MAX crank that i bought. note the huge lobes with knife edging. Being a V-Max crank it probably is more suited to drag racing. On the scales this was from memory about 25.5- 26kgs, which was about 2kg heavier than the Tomei full counter billet crank. Although very nice (made by a uk company called Farndon Racing http://www.farndon.com/index.htm ) was too heavy for my application. I wanted throttle response and i had experienced the huge effects of adding just a lightened flywheel and clutch setup had on response, so i knew the heavier crank was not a good choice. This is the HKS STEP III 2.6L billet crank. This weighed just over 22kgs, which is about 2kgs heavier than the stock crank, and quite a lot lighter than the Apexi and Tomei cranks. Note where they have taken the material out, but no knife edging.

Preparation for heart surgery Here is Daz and Matty (surgeons assistant) elbow deep in cavity (mechanics Butt crack pics to come later) Matty preparing for liftout truckie friend Adam came to help out with the old heart removal The old ticker. She is still complete. We managed to keep her complete during the new build. Lucky for me most of the New Engine is NEW. The GAPING cavity The bay was filthy. All white GTR's seem to come with this sooty stuff. Lots of toothbrushes, a steam gun and a crapload of elbow grease later. Turned out ok. Awaiting new heart.

Hi all, I've been reading up on all the nice builds here in the motorsport section, and although definitely mine is nowhere near as hardcore as the MERLI, MARK AND RUSS, NZMO32 and DAZMO builds, I still thought I'd post my little photo diary of my engine build for any of those who might be interested. A brief history, The car is a BNR32 V-SPEC model. I bought this car in 2003, imported from Japan by an appointed broker here in Brisbane. A fairly clean example, 35500kms on the clock, and totally stock except cat back exhaust and pod filters. I didnt fiddle much with the car except adding a few go fast bits of my own. items added were a blitz dsbc boost controller, a hks twin racing exhaust (one full length exhaust off each turbo) off the standard turbo outlets, a power fc and an ats twin plate carbon clutch. This setup running 13psi saw 299 all wheel hp. I was quite happy with this setup for quite some time, until mid 2006 i broke an oil pump heading down the strip. This is where my long time buddy/lifesaver DAZMO came to the rescue. Since the night she blew, the car has been sitting in Daz's shed in the backyard herein referred to as "Daz motorsport headquarters", for almost 3 years now. During that time, I've collected heaps of parts, changed my mind heaps of times, sold heaps of the parts i collected, and collected more parts because i had changed my mind! ANYWAY FINALLY, The engine build is in full swing now. I guess this thread is my way of saying THANKS to my very good friend Darren. Anyone that knows him knows that he is (apart from being a firey fu(ker and uses the F word in more ways than you can imagine) always there, willing to go out of his way to lend a helping hand to anyone that needs it. Cheers buddy! This is also a good chance to show some of the awesome work Daz does. This engine was not built in an air conditioned, dust free dedicated engine building room, it was built by Darren at "Daz motorsport headquarters". After seeing some of the cars that have left "Daz motorsport headquarters", i wouldnt have it built any other way!

pics of turbo bags? are they for t28?

TTT

TTT

pm sent

second that!

fair dinkum, you should put up some pics of the carnage for everyone to see! a pic is worth a thousand words! If a business treated me like that, id make sure the WORLD knew about it!

TTT

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its good to see so many people with thick ones. does anyone have any pictures? with front bars fitted of course.

hmmm.... does that affect safety? what does the reo actually do? isnt it for crash support?

mr gtr, is it possible to get pics? does it stick out ver far? i am more concerned about the look of it. i have a feeling it might look a bit funny. ie the cooler protrudes through the hole it should be sitting behind! weapon, the i/c is not twin entry, and i have already sold it to a friend. fantastic looking bit of gear they are. well designed too! does anyone have pictures of thick ones?

Hi all, i have bought an ARC 135mm racing intercooler. Currently I run an ARC 105mm intercooler. I remember i when i installed the 105, there was a quite little bit to chop off both the bar and the reo. I'm a little concerned now, is 135mm possible? Will she be able to take it? Can you please share your experiences with thickness? How did you deal with it? How much blood sweat and tears were involved? and what did she look like afterwards? Pictures of yours would be great!

my question exactly bwr! what do they and yourselves consider "racing"? how much of a pain is it to take off the belt? what are the consequences of not taking the belt off? what is the difference between taking the belt off when racing and turning the ac off when racing? i have heard mark berry and russell newman ran into heaps or problems with their ross balancers, i think with the centres delaminating. Ross sent them quite a few to trial before tsukuba, i dont know if ross ever solved the problem. i do know that once they changed over to an ati, all problems solved and they have never looked back. can anyone confirm?

beer baron, im not sure i totally agree. i have known a lot of 32/33 gtr boxes failing well before the getrag boxes do. and a lot of the hi horsepower, r34 gtr's in japan still run the getrag box. the mines gtr still runs the getrag, as well as number of top secret cars. http://www.topsecretjpn.com/gallery.shtml in this link you will notice the 32 and 33 gtrs (including the one that did the tunnel run) have been converted to run the 6speed getrag box. Also the pikes peak z33! Note the high horsepower levels too!

hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys? ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL 1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump. can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race? Please help!

awesome. i would actually prefer that. give me a day or two and ill let you know for sure cheers