AtomicBomberMan

no, definitely not ceramic. i have seen configurations which include these turbos running fairly high boost. ie 1.8bar plus. if they were ceramic, i doubt they would hold together under that sort of pressure.

Cerbera, great to hear some personal results. My friend had one on his RB25 and he shares the same comments as you. i know the B70 is a bit bigger (rated 380ps) but going by reviews and graphs in Japanese magazines, The response of the apexi ax series turbos are fantastic, which is what im chasing. At the end of the day, i'm not really chasing a number so im definitely willing to sacrafice top end for better response. If i get a nice number at the end, then that is a bonus. To be honest, i have been wanting to use the AX series of turbo for some time. I had one for my s14 but i never got around to fitting it. This pair have been in the closet for sometime too. Time to blow out the cobwebs!

Cheers Emtea, thanks for the kind comments. Glad you're enjoying the thread. I look forward to seeing your build on this forum soon! If your happy with the volume of pictures and if all other members have no objection, then MORE pics it is! From the looks of things there might be a slight change in direction. Once I fully decide which way i want to go, i'll make sure i provide updates and have plenty of pics to keep it (hopefully) interesting. Thanks Lawler for noticing. Yes i do try my best to give reasoning behind why i choose to use the parts that i end up using. Actually, a LOT of thought goes into everything i use. I dont like to just slap on or change parts for the sake of it or because someone told me to. A lot of inspiration comes from cars that have proven success on street/track (ie Mines/Mspeed haha if only i wasnt at the mercy of my budget all the time!)

Ez09, as far as i know it is a ceramic coating that must go on before the black ceramic goes on. The manifolds, the exhaust housing and the dump pipes have all been ceramic coated the same way, ie inside and out.

cheers mate! Really looking forward to meeting you guys! I hope to catch up with you guys for ice cream before its finished. ;P Thanks Mike for the kind words. Im glad youre enjoying it. There is QUITE a lot more to go yet. Heaps of photos to come. Hope you and the guys dont mind all the pics. I went crazy with the camera! The V-Max crank would have been too heavy! It was approx 5kg heavier than the HKS that im using. Probably more suited to a drag application.

Ok, they say a picture tells a thousand words......... In this next part, I'm going to let the pictures tell the story. The following sequence of events i have tried to reconstruct to the best that my memory will allow. Try to keep up.......(scroll down) UMMMMMMMM....................................ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR........ .................... HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM...................KNEEBONE CONNECTED TO THE.......... TA DA! If memory serves me right, this is quite accurate isnt it Daz?

I know im over doing it on the pics, but i think they look really cool! Exhaust housings are back! Coated inside and out. Reverse the process and you get these!

I was very hesitant to do the next part, but it was much easier than i thought! The V-Band in the middle was removed Circlip which held the actuator in place was also removed........(someone almost lost an eye in the process when it shot across the room) The exhaust housing pretty much just drops off! This is the P21 housing which is the larger of the two trims available. It was also available in a P18 housing. Lucky for me it has a locator dowel so i can put it back together! actuator Exhaust wheel Exhaust housings off to be Ceramic coated!

Forgot to add this to the previous post. This is a picture of the bulker joint. Turbo time! What a choice and a pain in the arse! I think i've changed my mind at least a million times before i decided what i wanted to go with. Like the displacement for my engine, i wanted to stay true to the original RB26DETT and therefore stuck with low mounted twins (as you probably would have guessed by now from the manifolds). Although during this journey i must say the HKS T04Z did look like an almighty attractive option! I actually bought and sold a number of turbo kits before settling on the ones i have now. BNR32 N1 turbos, (sold these as they were not ball bearing), HKS GT2530 (MINES car runs these so it must be good! Might hold onto these), HKS GT-RS (heard these have the top end like the GT2540 but spool up like a GT2530!........ BULLSH!T!) HKS GT-SS (Awesome response ive been told! But Dazza said you'll want to ditch these when im overtaking you on the race track!) TRUST T517Z (heard VERY good things, but the ball bearing benefits were too strong to ignore! no water cooling either!) I thought for a very long time that the HKS GT2530's were the way to go. Like i said Mines were using these and producing awesome results. It wasnt until december of 2007, during RevSpeed Time Attack at Tsukuba circuit that i saw the M-speed GTR run. Absolutely EVERYTHING about this car was perfect! I sooooooo wanted my car to run like that! All that power, all that response! It definitely lifted the bar much higher than the Mines GTR! Plus the Ztune GTR ran IHI based NISMO turbos too! Anyway the M-Speed car ran these turbos.....IHI based APEXi AX53B60 RACING TURBINES. These were a special edition turbine made by Apexi. These had the Black tags. Unfortunately, These were well out of my price range. This is what i ended up with. Still Apexi AX53B60 rated at 340ps per turbo but these had a red tag. These must have been the povo version. The Apexi turbos have always been expensive. There were retailing approx 50-60k yen more than HKS GT2530's and the black tag babies were going for almost 100k yen more than the red tag ones! What i dont understand is, What is the difference between the two!? they are physically the same size, produce the same output........ what am i missing here? Why such the huge price difference? I could see where the extra pricing between the HKS and the Apexi turbos were. The Apexi turbos are IHI based and therefore oil and waterlines are different to those which are garret based ie stock nissan and HKS turbos. This is where the money went. All lines and fittings were from EARLS, and a sticker for that extra 5kw The braided lines and fittings from the turbo kit definitely made things a lot easier when used in conjunction with the HKS balance pipe manifolds. For starters, the stock water hard lines would have definetly been in the way and would have to be re-routed. From what I've been told, its quite a mission. I saw one for sale recently which included modified lines to suit the manifold. Apparently looks something like this. Here are some better pics of the turbo. FRONT BACK OIL AND WATER

will they be as good as the f1 stuff? the weave looks quite good in them.

1100kg pressure plate on twin plate ats clutches, clutch is rated to 700ps 1350kg pressure plate on twin plate ats clutches, clutch is rated to 900ps

cheers mate, tonight is no good. is this every thursday you meet up? what if skyline isnt running? can we rock up in any car or is it frowned upon?

Ok, now onto the exhuast side. i'm sure i posted these up but i cant seem to find them. The exhaust manifolds are from HKS and are for low mount t25 type turbos with actuators. Not sure how well these manifolds work but they do feature a balance pipe to help reduce or hopefully eliminate compressor surge. Does anyone have any experience with these? Please share! (as everybody else has) underside with bulker joint perfect welds as expected from HKS The manifolds were sent off to have ceramic coated inside and out with the rest of the other gear dump pipes etc... Bulker joint could not be ceramic coated as movement will cause the coating to come off. When fitting these to the head, the bulker joint in the balance pipe section of the manifold needs to be assembled first, if not the joins will more than likely leak. For this section, on top of the gaskets, sealant was also used for a better seal. A Tomei Metal exhaust manifold gasket was used between the head and the manifold. Earls fittings for turbo lines ie water and oil etc were also put into place.

hi all, im new to this thread. Came across this thread title and as im from the brookfield area, i would love a chance to meet up with people in the hood so to speak. do you guys meet up regularly? sorry there are over 500 pages of chit chat and cbf reading it all. if any guys (or gals) in the area would like to meet up to friendly talk skylines, please drop me a pm! would love to meet you guys (and gals)

who do you go through to get big parts over like that?

Yeah BB, you're exactly right, no argument there, Matts car compared to Mspeed is like chalk and cheese. However, i do believe the philosophy behind the engine build would be very much the same. Make it go as hard, as fast and as responsive as possible. Plug Matts engine into the mspeed car, do you really think it would be light years behind? If Matt really ONLY wanted a car for the street, i doubt he would have gone through all this trouble. I've never met Matt, but judging by his use of fine ingredients combined with all the relevant herbs and spices, I think i can quite safely say that his inspiration did not come from something of the street. Mspeed do use an ATI balancer Here is another Balltearer GTR from the Japanese with ATI, V-CAM and Nismo Plenum

i have a genuine hks adaptor for the etc as i have had the same problem before. if interested please pm.

Sorry for the late post, but once again, like the stock harmonic balancer in a previous post, i don't totally agree with beno regarding the Nismo plenum. Here is a "track proven" RB28 we are all familiar with, with a significantly higher output than yours. Picture of Nismo plenum from the m-speed site in no way is this engine "standard capacity" or "mildly tuned" I have seen the M-speed car and crew/team in person and I believe i can quite safely say that M-speed (and many other japanese teams) work on an unlimited budget. If the Nismo plenum really did reduce power output, i'm sure one of the many engineers they have working on this engine during R&D and would have picked up on it and not used the Nismo plenum. The group A cars in japan also used this plenum. Not knocking Beno and his wealth of experience and knowledge, but i find it very hard to write off the experience and knowledge gained from years of R&D of the Japanese. Especially with the budgets involved. That aside, fantastic looking car. Seems as if the budget for your car is unlimited too!

Ok, the next part of the build has be talked about heaps in other threads. The oil drain on the back of the head. Whether or not it works, or whether it is a good mod, everyone has their own opinion. But i am definitely adding this to my head. This is a fitting that I bought from Blue Force Racing in Japan, and at quite a pretty penny i might add. http://blue-force.sakura.ne.jp/index.html The link to the adaptor http://blue-force.sakura.ne.jp/n-14-oilrtn.htm This adaptor allows for a drain on the back of the head without the need for recessing the firewall to make room for the fittings to fit. Machined from one piece of billet aluminium. Give it a bash and lever it out double check in and around the opening for metal fragments mark out the screw points and put some tape over the hole to stop fragments from going in Put on some 3 bond and press it in. Its a tight fit. it can be angled either side to suit individual setups. I had a -12 fitting welded to drivers side of the sump. This is where the oil will return to. Other examples

Haha, thanks Evan. I will definitely put some more pictures up for you. Good to hear that you are enjoying the thread. Now, where were we?

Thanks gtr81. The parts required for an rb26 build would vary from build to build. The parts required would also depend greatly on how particular you were with recycling parts from the old engine. The old hoses and clamps would have been fine to reuse, however, because everything else was new, and most of the hoses were over 15years old, i decided a refresh would be nice. The other parts ie block short parts eg fittings etc, you generally should not need to buy as you would already have these fittings from the stock engine. i bought everything new because i started with a brand new block and i didnt want to rape my stock engine. I wanted to leave the old engine completely intact. Whenever i need genuine parts, i go to the NISSAN FAST dvd and list the parts i want and fax them to the dealer. If you require anything shoot me a pm, id be happy to help.

Fastrotor, nissan parts didnt feel so bad as i purchased them in spurts. if i bought them all at once it would hurt for sure. Fastrotor, if you ever need any parts from nissan, send me a pm, and i would gladly help out. I am on really good terms with the guys at nissan and they give me really good prices for genuine parts. Much much cheaper than retail. Parts that come from japan only take 5 days or so.

hi all, sorry for the lack of updates. There is a lot happening at the moment plus i am away on business. I have recently collected A CRAPLOAD of parts, and have slightly changed direction as to how i want the finished car to perform. Thanks to DAZMO and his persuasive advice ie "his way or the highway" approach, this is what has brought about all the changes. As much as i hate to admit it, he is probably right when deciding whats best for me. I promise i will have updates soon and lots of pics. Thank you all for your patience.

sms sent re arc airbox.

Tangomatt, I think you might want to have have a read of this post and reconsider buying that ati. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...html&st=120 .Sure the stock balancer is a good item, but as the name of the part implies it is really only good for stock or slightly better than stock power outputs. For a car like this, the only thing stock on this car is probably the door handles! A good balancer will definitely help with keeping harmonics at a minimum when revving its tits off, which will probably help save the oil pump too.