Almera96gtin15

Sounds like a pulley maybe, make sure it's not the water pump (get garage to check mate)

Cool, I could do with someone sending me a peice that's not too squashed, so that an exact rubber can be made. Mine is not too bad but it's a bit dry and squished.

How many people would need a replacement sunroof weatherseal for their r33 - c35 laurel - altima/bluebird? I'm going to try and get some sunroof weatherstrip seals made up for the r33 if I can get one in good condition. I would imagine it would help some people including me.

Hey lads, I need a r33 sunroof glass or a seal for it please or some sort of replacement seal. Someone must have found a solution. I've got one that's OK for now but will need replacement eventually. I read about webasto H300 but you can't even get them. Thanks, mark

Makes sense, thank you. I'll have a look.

G'day lads, my R33 s2 has a do luck front bumper with what it looks like s1 front indicators. I noticed that there is a 3 pin plug with black, green and red (which has been snipped) I want to fit some sort of fog lights to the bumper, and wondered if anyone knows what the red wire does and if it can be power to an aftermarket fog light? If I run an earth wire also. I have the fog symbol on the right stalk.

Hahaha lol I don't mean that the whole CAS spins The mitsubishi symbol in the centre of the CAS. Have a look at yours and you'll see what I mean. It's not a casper the friendly ghost situation lol.

I noticed that the centre of the CAS (mitsubishi symbol) is not spinning all the time and sometimes stops all together? I touched it and the symbol spins, even the engine note changes when I touch it. Is it faulty? As I get slight bit of a hesitation when boosting also. I only decided to check iacv (cleaned with brake cleaner) and check the timing as it was fluctuating on idle. Thanks guys.

Yeah lol probably. Can I just ask if anyone knows obviously. With the adjustment on the pedal rod maxxed out, will it cause any problems with anything? (picture on page 1) I made sure the pedal had a bit of play before it moved the rod also. I suppose I could go back a bit and see if the gears still change smoothly, What do you reckon?

Hi Donald, if your on about the master cylinder rod at the back of the pedal. I had to put it nearly to the end of the thread to first of all lift the pedal bite off the floor (overstroke condition to press heavy duty clutch pressure plate) when I took the pin out of the fork, it moved out further (to the end of travel for the master cylinder) I lined the pedal up with the hole by moving the pedal stopper back a bit to accommodate it. Like you I'm not sure if it will cause any problems. I'm trying it while my new clutch beds in properly.

Yes mate I'm happy with their response to my queries, it's difficult to diagnose obviously without seeing the car in person. They allowed me to get in contact to pass onto engineers. It made sense to me afterwards to take the clutch pedal pin out, let it take the pressure off the rod which moved out slightly, and adjust from there, with a bit of play in the pedal before engagement. Obviously I'm going to go normally until everything is bedded in, I treat all my cars with respect anyway. Cheers lads, this forum is a good community, hardly anyone replies in the UK forums like they used to do. It's much appreciated

Thank you for all the help guys, since I backed the pedal stopper off a bit and made sure there was a bit of free play at the top and it's driving a lot smoother and gears are selecting without hassle. It must have been more adjustment needed like a few suggested. After the clutch has bedded in a bit I'll check it again. I sent the videos with the sound to ACS and they said this: "What you are experiencing is harmonic noise and nothing to do with the bearing. The Australian engineers have said it sounds like gear noise/gearshift rattle This can happen on some vehicles and depends on the condition of everything else. There may be some worn bushes in the linkage which could be cured by replacing them or some gear rattle which may be 'dampened' with some tougher gearbox oil.

I'll take a picture soon, so you can see mate. I was only asking because, now the rod has been adjusted out for more throw I don't have any slop in clutch pedal. So when I took the pin out of the fork, the rod moved slightly towards me out of the hole which made me think the pedal stopper has to come back a bit to allow a bit of play? Is that right?

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. Slave cylinder is the stock one. Clutch fork is OK and pivot. I think it's the release bearing making the noise, everything else seems fine now. Pedal had come up a bit since bedding in a bit. I'll ask again if possible please, I read that taking the pin out on the pedal (the shaft moves out further about 1/2 an inch) If I let the shaft come out and line the hole up with the pin and move pedal stopper back is this a good idea? Or not. By the way I did notice the clutch pedal is slightly lower than brake pedal.