Skaith4224

Thanks for the response, Was a little thrown off as the MAF voltage wouldn't go back to normal until I reset the ECU. Was reluctant to start poking at the solder points if it wasn't the issue. However, was driving Friday and the car completely died, no amount of ECU resets would get the voltage back so I got out and gave the MAF a slap, everything was then fine again. So, Saturday, chopped the cap off and re-heated all the solder points. So far, I've been driving it for 3 days of varying lengths and so far so good! The smell of petrol has gone, No hesitation under high boost and no cutouts! Will keep testing and let ya'll know if any issues to occur. Thanks, Alan.

Hey all, R33 gtst spec 2 / Rb25 DET Manual Been having issues for a while where the engine randomly turns off. Could be idle, cruising, boosting or changing gear. More recently I've had issues with big boost where she suddenly shuts off fuel like it's over spooling. Running an apexi Fc so shouldnt be boost cutout, also have a greddy boost controller and psi looks normal. Any who, I've noticed that on the "stalls" the AFM shows a decimal down. When the engine is off, I get about 280mv but after the stall it'll show 28mv. It does move so not jammed or frozen. Shows on hand controller. Most of the time, to get going again, I have to turn the ignition completely off then back on to reset the ECU then the reading is fine again. Does this sound more AFM sensor/loom or could it be an Ecu issue? Thanks in advanced. Alan.

Quick update. Found the sensor plugged into the De-Cat pipe and eventually managed to snip it. Did have to pull the cable back into the car from under the seat so I could snip it again as it was grounding on the braid but I've finally been able to start the car with no warning lights showing I was assuming as there was no cat the sensor would have been removed however I was wrong! To answer a previous question, the lighs were solid on. It confused me as the CEL went out for a time while the EXTM was still on. Thanks all,

Thanks all for the reply's, for some reason i've not received any notifications about them hence my late response. Will hopefully get some time today to look for the cable/sensor. I've read that it goes under the pasenger seat so might not have to jack her up and get all grubby

Had this issue since getting the car but now it's getting in the way of troubleshooting. Basically, alway had the exhaust temp light on and the CEL on. Thought the CEL was due to the EXTM sensor showing as faulty. See pic. However, the other day I noticed while driving the CEL was off! Exhaust Temp still on though. Drove about 20 miles, no issues, then after a mid pull on boost, the CEL turned back on But it's a start and surely means the temp sensor isn't the full cause of the CEL. Mainly, I need to find out how to stop the sensor from showing as faulty. (no cat so would guess, no sensor...) is there a way to check if its cable is still there and grounding? Not sure where it is. Reading apexi forums, people say the temp light is a replacement for the CEL and to look for the faulty sensor. So I go round in circles. Its a 1995 (I think spec 2) R33 gtst RB25DET Thanks for any assistance. Alan.

Good news, Adjusting the idle control valve did the trick. Maybe the warmer weather had some effect? As soon as I turned it about 15 degrees the timing settled. Tweaked to match the rpm asked for by the ecu. Just glad the Cas isn't dead :D Any who, will do some testing and see if I still get any stalling.

Sorry, totally forgot to mention that! It's an RB25DET in an 1995 R33 GTST spec 2 Usual mods I suppose, Front Mount intercooler, new Rad, Strighthrough exhaust, HKS BOV, Greddy turbo timer, Catch Can Apexi Power FC ECU Thanks,

Already stripped and cleaned the IACV however didn't adjust the screw, just put it back where I found it. I'll have a look at the throttle body, Anything I need to watch out for? Seen some post mention that if you clean them, it can remove a seal or wax that helps prevent leaks? Might have been from reading about 350z throttle bodies but want to check. Are there any good guides on adjusting the Idle as I know there's a kind of procedure where things need unplugging during adjustments etc however seen a few conflicting ones. Thanks.

Still does the same thing with the BOV completely blocked off so no leak there. Am I correct in thinking as the air goes back though the turbo it's "recirculated" as far as the AFM is concerned Having a quick look at the ECU settings, the highest Idle I can get it to go to is 950RPM but she has been idling at 1060ish. Could that be the reason the ecu and idle control valve are having an argument? If that was the case, still odd that blipping the throttle steady's it. Saving for a new ECU but times are hard and it's fun to tinker/diagnose in the mean time 😆

Thanks for getting back to me on this. Purcchased the car with the aftermarked BOV so will have to have a look at sourcing another one. Does make sense. It's odd that a blip on the throttle will bring it back to stable timing at the same idle, Maybe it's from engine braking to slightly below the requested idle speed that is confusing it? Might have a tinker with the ECU to see if I can fine tune the idle and see if that at least changes symptoms.

Hey all, Been chasing a few little issues here and there as usual but not sure on this one. Had a few issues with random stalling, seemed to be when changing gear (clutch in, revs drop, engine very occationally dies) and it would even sometimes stall for no apparent reason when idling. no coughing or splutters, just engine dies. electronics stay one. The odd thing is, I have to turn the car completely off to restart and it will fire up fine. Resetting the ECU I'm guessing. (Apexi FC Pro) Checked the usual, AFM, Idle control valve cleaned, TPS voltage, fuel filter, new sparks, boost leaks, etc etc, The thing I've noticed recently is my timing sometimes drops below 15 degrees on idle. This can fluctuate between 9-15 degrees When this happens, a quick blip on the throttle will bring it back to a steady 15 degrees. Seems be happen when engine braking to a slow speed so the revs are very low. If the car has stalled when idling, looking at the handheld I can see that even with the engine off, the timing shows 6 degrees (might vary). Turning the ignition totally off then on again so the ECU reboots, timing goes back to 0. Another quirk the car has always had since purchase is, if I accelerate in 1st then pop the clutch in almost straight away, it will stall the engine. Don't know if this could be related. Thing of note, using an aftermarked HKS BOV however was tuned with this and tried with this on and blocked (Don't lecture me on the Turbo wear...) Basically, wondering if a CAS on the way out could cause the timing issues? Thanks in advance.

Hi All, R33 Gtst Series 2 1996 I've been getting error 34 recently showing an issue with the knock sensors. I've replaced the sensors and checked the looms and all seems fine, however I'm still getting the error When checking the cables at the ecu I get about 2v from one of the cables but the other cable reads -0.8v and seems to be drawing power. This is when the sensors are both plugged in and when unplugged. I'm guessing this is an issue with the ECU. I removed the ECU for inspection and can't see anything obvious so I looked at checking continuity however I'm finding it very difficult to find as the board is multi layer and complex. I've found what looks like 1 fuse that has continuity from the connector pins but I can't find anything from the second sensor pin. This may be the issue but can't confim. One thing that confuses me is when checking any of the on board fuses, I don't get continuity, on any of them. Unfortunatley, my knowledge with PCB's is rather limited. Does anyone know about the board and be able to point me in the right direction to diagnose/repair/bypass to get the knock sensors working again? Please let me know if you need images or any other information. Thanks.

Hi All, Quick update. Still can't bypass the knock sensors so giving that a miss for the moment. The car is a series 2 so simple coil setup. Wanted to check tonight but the car now won't start due to the fuel pump. I'm now all colours of confused and think I'm getting way out of my depth here. Today I had a bit more of a fiddle with the sensors by grounding them on the ECU ground and a few other things. no change. Checked continuity from the ECU cable to the sensor plug and all seems connected and getting good signal. Went for a quick drive to my mothers today to say hi and when trying to leave, the fuel wouldn't prime again. nothing from the pump. The relay clicks but nothing. I fiddled with the relay briefly and it came back so I went on. Later the same thing happened but took a little more trying but finally primed. Now I can't get the pump to work at all. It's now very cold so maybe the temperature is not helping things? This is my third pump as the original one that came with the car was aftermarket but sounded intermittent so I changed it with a walbro pump. That failed within 2 weeks so I went back to the old one. By this time I had read up on the relay hotwire method to get correct voltage to the pump but I guess it was too little too late. That then failed and left me stranded. Ordered a 3rd pump, "quantum 340LPH pump" that has decided to stop today. I'm going to be checking wiring tomorrow however I'm now wondering if this could all be related. To summerise: Car was running okay, needed some leaks to fix and replace some consumables like the plugs etc however wasn't too bad. Took it to the garage to replace the water pump as it was leaking at the bearing spraying water on the belts making them squeel. As the water pump is behind the Timing belt I purchased a HKS kit with bearings to fit as well. After getting the call to collect the car I immediately noticed hesitation when cold and no power/overboosting at high rpm. (boost would go up from 7psi to about 12 after the car felt like it bogs down so I don't think it's the ECU limiting fuel due to too high boost at first) Took the car back and took the front end off again. checked all marks and all seemed fine. still no power. Since then had the issue with the second fuel pump and replaced that with the new relay mod. when mucking about with an OBD2 device the check engine light flashed so I checked the code and it came up with 34. I don't recall this code when I first got the car back from the garage as it was just blinking 55. I'm saving for coils and had some friends mention getting the fuel rails/injectors checked due to the pump problems. Any ideas why the pumps keep failing if not a wiring issue? Do you think I now have to take this to a specialist? I'm worried as the issues could be so spread out they would need to check everything and it would cost as much as the cars worth... Regarding the question about the fuel pressure return pipes, could you elaborate on this? I don't believe the garage touched anything fuel related however my vac lines need looking at as they seem to have been changed slightly by the previous owner so something could be wrong. Thanks.

Just to add, Changed all plugs at the were a bit worse for wear even though they were gapped correctly and the ceramic was all fine. Cost me all of £12 to do so though why not. was on the list anyway.

Hi All, Still trying to get my hands on a CAS sensor. Seems people in my area are being a little quiet at the moment and the local get together has now been cancelled due to some BMW drivers getting too excited at the meets and ruining everything :< Anyway, I've been tinkering and tried a new software that may be able to read the ECU. Unfortunately i've not been able to get it to work yet however it did make the check engine light do some funny things. Out of curiosity I performed the bridge trick to get the code and it has now started giving me 3-4 knock sensor. I reset the ECU and start the car, idle for about 30 seconds and check the code again. Knock sensor again. As this seems to be a permanent thing but the engine sounds great I've looked into temporary bypassing the sensors to see if this stops pulling timing and dumping fuel. However I'm finding it difficult to do this. I've checked the sub loom that has good continuity so I don't think it's that, maybe the main loom? Checking forums I'm supposed to use a resistor between the knock sensor cable and a ground point. I used a 470kohm resister at the plug end and now at the ECU loom but I'm still getting the code. Does this mean I'm not doing it correctly/incorrect resistance or is there other things that can cause code 3-4? On a side note, I did see that the speed sensor wire at the ECU was broken so fixed that. Not sure if it's changed anything though. Thanks.

I am getting new plugs tomorrow. I'm hoping to get some new coils soon however I'm looking at all possibilities as OEM are expensive and second hand so might look at getting the R35 kit. Just need to make sure the standard ECU can handle them.

Hi all, Sorry Ive been away for a little while. Been working on a few bits and went to a meet to chat to some skyline owners. Didn't get much useful info unfortunately however I do have some updates. Not been able to borrow a CAS yet, hoping to do so soon. So the other day I broke down and it ended up being the fuel pump failing. This was an older pump that I had to put back in after my new pump failed. After some research, I performed the relay mod and installed a 3rd pump. so far so good. This has no changed the car performance however :< On my way back from a car meet I had some really weird juddering on trying to boost. This was intermittent but very concerning. So today I took off the wastegate actuator, tied the wastegate open and went for a drive. Apart from the lack of power and a lot more popping the car ran well. No hesitation or flat spots that I could notice. However! when the RPM got to about 5k the boost pressure at the throttle body suddenly shot up to 12psi again. Below 5k I was seeing no pressure as to be expected with the wastegate open. I'm now thinking the turbo is shot. Does anyone agree? It's original so 26 years old... Thanks.

Hi Duncan, Yes to clarify, it's an R33 gtst series 2. The second image should show the balancer lining up with the mark on the belt cover perfectly. If that small amount of difference on the intake cam isn't an issue then I will say the belt is correct. As the manual states, 15 degrees advanced is the correct position for the balancer when idling and the TPS disconnected. Using the light gun on a HT lead from the coil to spark on cylinder 1. No bouncing so looks like signal was good. Tension feels good from looking up a few how to's. My concern was if the tensioner bearing was placed upside down and if that would make a difference. What I'm thinking now is there must be a leak somewhere that I can't find. I've been using a small airbrush compressor to check but it doesn't have enough flow to get to 5 psi so it's difficult. This may suggest a leak too! I've also been trying to find instructions on how the factory hoses/vac lines should be as it looks like some were modded/changed by the previous owner. Otherwise I'll be checking things like the BOV and regulator to see if they have anything to do with this, It's just very odd as my boost gauge connected to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body is showing about 6psi under load then jumping to above 11/12 psi under high RPM but it looses all power at this point. This is T'd off to fit directly to the wastegate actuator and boost solenoid so it should cut off at around 7 psi I thought. maybe it's not moving enough? how far should it move? Thanks.

Hi Guys, Back with some images. Putting the balancer to TDC and the cover off it looks to line up pretty well however the intake cam seems to be maybe a quarter turn retarded. Could this be a tension issue? The belt is a genuine HKS with bearings so I wouldn't have thought that would be the issue. Would this be out enough to give me these issues? Thanks.

Thanks for the updates guys. I'll have a look at aligning the balancer tomorrow as it's 23:30 here now. I'll get some pics. Fingers crossed it's off by a tooth as this would be fixable! I feel like I've done nothing but chase issues all year and not been able to enjoy the damn thing! Hopefully the fuel pump will now hold out and not give me any more issues. Quick question regarding the fuel system, When priming, it takes about 6-8 seconds to prime. This seems like a long time to me. would I be right in thinking this is not quite right? also has a frothy sound going into the injectors. This has always been the issue long before I was getting any kind of performance issues. Thanks.

Hey Duncan, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly on this. While I was hoping you'd say that I was also kinda hoping you wouldn't say that 😛 Stuck in a bad place as the garage I've had the work done is a friend so it puts me in a tricky situation of, do I go somewhere else, get the issue fixed and have a chat with my local guys as i've already spend a lot of money getting this done or do I go back to them again for another check. They would be upset by this as it would be me asking for a 3rd time to take the front apart. If I had a crank puller I'd have a look myself however not being a qualified mechanic, I'd worry about doing this myself. I do have a friend that may be able to help there though. Any tips on making sure everything is lined up correctly? I was with the guys doing the work second time around and we found it tricky to make sure the bottom mark was correct as the angle is not ideal without taking the entire front end off. Thanks.

Hi all, I've been around a few forums with this but I've had no answers back and was wondering if you could give me some ideas on what's going on here. Car was running okay, boost was working but she needed more tlc in the long run. Long story short, I needed a new water pump and had this installed by my local garage as I didn't have the tools to do this. This require removing the Cam belt so I purchased a HKS belt and bearing set for the job. After the work was done, I picked the car up and immediately noticed some hesitation when cold and next to no boost. Once the car gets to about 5k RPM the boost shows as jumping to about 10psi but it's like hitting the brakes. no power what so ever. Staying off the boost and the car will run fine and she revs normally. Took it back to the garage to check as they simply made marks and swapped the belt. This time we checked the factory marks and they all lined up as expected. They said there was nothing else they could do... I took her home and got a timing gun. Used a HT lead between the coil and spark plug to make sure the signal was correct. Checking the timing she was a tiny but off 15 degrees so I adjusted it accordingly. No change The only time I can get any power back is if I advance the timing to about 22 degrees. She boosts better but still not quite right and still tops out at high RPM. Since this started I've also had a lot of popping and backfires from the exhaust. More than the usual as it's a straighthrough pipe. Another thing since this issue started is I've had 2 fuel pumps fail. When testing them they seem fine however I've now installed a 3rd with the relay mod to make sure the voltage is at 13.5v. I've put in a new fuel filter to make sure there isn't any fuel issues since the pumps failed. No mods have been added since changing the cam belt. Currently installed mods: Front mounted intercooler Air filter 3.5inch straighthough exhaust All new vacuum and boost pipes. checked for leaks and couldn't find any. New coolant temp sensor New O2 sensor Anyone heard of anything like this before? I'm worried about running 22 degrees timing as the gtst is supposed to be 15. I will be changing coils and sparks soon but they seemed fine when tested. I've checked the MAF and it seems fine. I can't test boost with it disconnected as it goes into limp mode. Would putting her on a rolling road/dyno help diagnose this? Standard ECU Obd1 so can't find anyone who can plug it in :( Sorry for the babble, hope it makes sense. Thanks in advanced for any replies. A.