mitchy_

it's a biatch of a job! i took mine out of my R33, and even with no intentions of putting the dash back in, it was quite a job. you basically have to remove the entire dash, and everything in the way of the core...

my turbo's are that small you dont even know it has any!

no it wont actually... say you go down the drags, and leave the torque split button alone.. from your launch the car will likely detect wheelspin off the line, and send more power up the front to counteract that, but then it will send all the power to the back wheels again for the rest of the 400 metres.... ...that is unless you can get your rear wheels to light up at 100+km/h in a heavy wagon

it also depends on the type of torque split controller too... the old rare HKS ones will give you full control over the ratio, however most of them allow you to change how much the ratio changes... ie, it will send more power to the front when it does notice slip at the rear, but the computer will still control when the power is sent there and not.

Legnum VR4 is you want a wagon Galant VR4 if you want a sedan AWD + twin turbo V6, increase the boost a bit and you got easy 13's.

http://search.carsguide.news.com.au/used-3...DELINE:F967.htm same plates, different price.

something isnt right.... i replaced the exhaust manifolds, and gaskets on both my s1 r33, and kylies s1 stagea, and both were identical. the ONLY difference was that nissan had updated the studs for the s2 head, but both stud types fitted both heads (series 1 studs are threaded all the way to the end, series 2 studs the thread stop about 3mm short of the head end of the stud) either you've got a NEO motor, or very least a NEO head... or something just isnt right..

i can vouch for the 500+hp limiter launches but yeah.. dunno how long that box will last, and i just sold my spare one too

as long as whatever you do is legal/engineered, etc you wont have a drama, but the idea is to get pre-approval, especially for things that may be borderline.

you're supposed to apply for approval BEFORE the mods are done, that way you know if its legal or not.

but i've already got a curve like that dale... is it auto or manual? and with the turbo, what if you remove the actuator and weld up the internal gate, and then have an external gate on your manifold? it might just save you from forking out for a new turbo again, especially if you are staying with the GT35R. edit: i'm not to sure about it having a NEO head... what did you buy that didnt fit?

you have a series 1 stagea, which has a series 2 R33 motor, correct? if so, the R34 PFC wont work, as its for the NEO engine, which has a few electronic differences, unles you are going to re-wire it.. (for the the CAS wires are completely opposite)

you can get 6.5" subs...

thats the one

i wouldnt buy a R32 GTR fuel pump.. buy a bosch 040, or 044... what point is there of replacing a 10yr old pump, with a 15yr old pump? they are about ready to die anyway boost gauge - there is a nipple on the back of the plenum with a rubber plug on it, in the R33 it goes to the factory boost gauge in the dash, in the stagea its blocked off, just put your hose on there, done! pod filter - apexi power intake is a great filter, i had one on my 33, and kylie has one on her stag. BOV - get a turbosmart plumb-back bov, the stock one can leak over about 12ish psi FMIC - the stagea specific kit is identical to the R33/34 kit.. which i installed in kylies car, definately worth it if you want to raise the boost (the stock side mounts are VERY restrictive, kylies stag spooled quicker with the FMIC) Exhaust - 3" turbo back with a split dump (dont get a bellmouth dump, they are useless, and cost about the same) with a 3" highflow cat. if you want a bit more top end power, but are willing to drop a bit of midrange, get a 3.5" system. (my R33 made 300rwhp on stock turbo with an exhaust that started at 3", and gradually expanded to 4" by the end) Auto shift kit - MV automatics in SA, have never heard a bad word about them Boost controller - $30 ebay special! i'm serious, i had one on my R33, boost never spiked over the 13psi i set it at. if you have bigger plans, or want more control over wastegate opening, etc.. get a electronic boost controller, but for a mild upgrade, they arent worth it. you will probably want to get some form of fuel management too, SAFC II is fantastic for mild power.

nah, just thought it was humorous being advertised as one. datto 180B FTW! mate had one that we used as a bush basher, great fun

you know stagea's dont go.. especially yours the legume is ready for a run 1996 NISSAN DATSUN STAGEA WAGON 2500 25X TURBO RB25DET (WGC34)

these tyres are not made anymore, and i have 3 with 95% tread, so i want a fourth one (with preferably 90%+ tread). alternatively if anyone wants to buy 1, or all 3, that could work as well. PM me if you have anything!

its fantastic.... engine has heaps of torque, turbo's can take up to about 16psi (mine are currently on 12psi), the AYC grips like crazy, and the factory recaro's make it a very comfortable, quick cruiser. all i've done is fit a set of coilovers, and uped the boost to 12psi, and it should run 13's.

yes

nice rims!

someone pointed out this link to me... an R34 GT-T in QLD for $8,500.00..... doesnt seem right. http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars....8&Make=NISSAN anyone know the car/owner?

6 star key is a torx key and if you are fiddling with the airbag, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, unless you want to play russian roulette with an airbag 10cm from your face.

i've got a nardi boss to suit a 33 if anyone is interested...

+20? i reckon you could get away with lower than that i had 17x8" +32 on the front of my r33, and it wasnt flush with the guards, so if you are putting on another 20-30 mm, you should be able to sneak in a gtr-ish offset rim, like +12, even if you have to add a degree of camber that said, it depends on what widths you want as well..