mitchy_

ah true... however the stock 33 16's have pretty high brake clearance.

we've got a set of 18's with 235's on them if you want or a set of stock R33 rims with 3 brand new tyres, and the 4th needs a new tyre (that im going to replace anyway) if you want. we are in rockingham. PS. you dont happen to own the white 260RS with the QLD plates do ya?

not always.. why would they issue you a sticker for the first (usually) 2 weeks, if they are going to extend it another 2 weeks just like that? the whole reason you get a sticker is that they have reason to suspect your car is unroadworthy, so thry give you 2 weeks to either a) prove that it isnt, or b) get it fixed/off the road, they wont just extend it because you cant get there within 2 weeks. if it happens that you miss the date, or you don't get an extension, then you need to ring up and get a permit ($15 for a 48 hour permit) to take the car to either a place of repair/work, or the pits themselves. ps. do you have an external gate or anything? what about rim/tyre widths, are they the same?

S1/S2 are different plugs, but can be made to work if you know how to wire it up. i've got a S2 AFM lying around if you are willing to drive/splutter to rockingham.

out of those choices, i'd put the wing on. however the best look is the N1 lip, or some form of 'lip' on the back. PS: lose the badge.

ok, i'll make sure i tell my people

i thought the exact same thing. and the forrester STi is no different, thats like saying a 260RS is a race car. didnt grants stagea only have (or plan on having) stupidly low suspension, which keep in mind is the worst thing you can do for handling, throws out the centre of gravity, diff angles, etc, and wide low offset rims, which again will just put undue stress on the hubs, etc and affect handling by tramlining and the like. ps. brad's stag is slow. pps. i'm 20 and sometimes drive a stagea. (when im allowed )

supercheap have them on special for $20.

nice write-up, i've done the conversion too. (however i stripped the thread on the brake line, so i had to remove them again! ) however, i didnt have to trim the backing plate, the calipers sat extremely close, but didnt touch it (no it hasnt been cut before either), and i also found the mounting bolts off my R33 were the perfect length, not too short.

do you mean you dont like the pull back to flash the high beam, and push forward for constant high beam?

it used to be up to 7.5" in width, unless larger was a factory option. and 2" increase in diameter as long as the rolling diameter didnt change. now it is 1.3x the largest factory optioned rim width, providing the track doesnt increase by more than 25mm, and that it doesnt foul any part of the car. and diameter can be anything that will allow for the same size rolling diameter. also staggered sizes is still a big no-no, unless it came standard, but none of us drive porsches, so it doesnt matter! ps. DPI is your friend, if in doubt ask them, rather than get 4574987504579437543750435 answers off the forums.

wouldnt the suspension, braking and tyres area be a better place to ask? alternatively do a 5 stud hub conversion.

usually about $50/corner. how low was your old car compared to the new one? there is no difference in guard width/hub in S1/S2, so if it fitted your old car, there is no reason why it wont fit the new one (with the same mods of course)

i've had the same tank of fuel in my car since about april.

i've got some plates that i wont be needing anymore... "ARRH 33".

looks better without. and yeah, you'd have the cut the support bar (cut it MORE if you have a FMIC) for them to actually be useful. that large opening in the front will give more than ample air flow, my 33 gts-t with a similar sized opening never got over 1/3 of the temp guage, regardless of how it was driven.

skyline rims wont fit a commodore, they are 5x120, like beemers, but thats about all they are the same as.

they are N1 vents, i'm not a fan of them however, they look out of place. (my old GTR front bar had them too)

basically, except R32 GTR's had cross drilled rotors i think..

not sure about S2, but the S1 has a 3 position switch to the right of the stick. it says power at the top, and snow at the bottom. snow is as said before, a high gear with slippage, power is obviously that, holds out the revs longer. leaving the switch in the central position is the 3rd mode, or normal mode, however it will activate the 'power' mode by itself if you put your foot down.

yep, you'll need to match the calipers with the rotors, or have brackets made up to move the caliper out to fit a R33 rotor, however its better to get 33 calipers too (4 pot front, 2 pot rear - R33 vs. 2 pot front, 1 pot rear - stagea) suspension is easy! can be done yourself, but if you arent confident theres plenty of workshops in perth that can help, wa suspension is who i'd recommend though.

R33 GTS-T brakes are a good upgrade. rotors and calipers bolt straight on, which is what i'm about to do to kylies car when i get around to it.

as i said above 'same' i had a S2 and S1 head, and swapped the covers over with no problems.

same

when i was after a R33 support bar it was about $600+ new, so $400 isnt too bad. however 99% of skylines have the support bar cut to fit FMIC's, i even had my front bar off and hacked up support bar on display when the insurance company came to check out my R33, didnt say a word (except 'write-off' ). if you do cut it though, do it nice and neat, and give the whole support bar a coat of matt black rust proofing. it will stop it rusting on the cut parts, make it look neater, and it might just fool them to think its always been like that.