mitchy_

what width/offset? i'm guessing nothing close to what i'm after

no, it's a GTS without a turbo engine conversion...

buy rims with the correct width/offset in the first place.

i'd take an evo over a wrx too... i'd just get a manual.

i dunno about the GT-A box being that strong. they use the same W5A51 as the legnum vr-4's, oh which 90% of them shit the torque converter seal, and its a bitch to replace (good 12 hours labour, and i've done it 4 times) and i also managed to completely destroy a planetary gearset in one. they aren't too bad if the fluid is changed often, and the CORRECT fluid is used... even then mine imploded though.

under steer. that is all.

what state?

i paid quite a bit for my passage gt, more than a 32 or 33, but the condition inside and out is almost unbelievable for a 1989 car, and it's not your average 31 (i wanted a 4 door over a coupe)

i see where you are coming from now, but i guess it all comes to do what HE wants, doesn't it? i spent about the same as a GTS on my passage GT, but that has 400rwhp and plenty of other mods... i didn't want a stock GTS.

i dont understand what your saying... he can spend ~$3k on a normal 31, and then 10k on mods... or he can spend $15k on a gts, and then 10k on mods.... either way he has to spent the same amount on mods to get what he wants, so why does it matter if he buys a cheap 31 or a gts?

obviously he wants to put a 25 in it... gts' didn't come with 25's either, so he would still have to convert it... so really it would cost more to buy a gts?

hi chris, i've got a passage gt with a rb25 and 25 box... goes in relatively easy. brake - 33 gts-t rotors/calipers fit all round on import struts (so coupe is fine) mine has 33 gts-t calipers, and rotors re-drilled to 4 stud. the front hubs can be drilled to 5 stud, but the rears use a 'square' plate so it cant be drilled to suit, you can use Z31 rear hubs i believe, or possibly even get billet ones, depending on how much power you plan on throwing at it. rear swaps - i assume you just mean tail lights? 99% sure they are a straight swap. lsd - my factory lsd seems pretty decent, doesnt single peg. i do have a tomei 2 way sitting in the shed for it as well though. my 31 has quite a few mods done, so if you have any questions can shoot me a pm.

yep, i've got a 31 with plenty of power, went for a bit of a drive today and had absolutely no issues with traction as i drove within the limits of myself, my car, and the roads.

sixteen.

the wastegate flap is behind that, and merges into the turbo exhaust before the v-band

there should be a nipple on the back of the plenum somewhere, i'm not sure where it is on a 26, but there is one on the back of the 25 plenum. and yes, that's for the factory boost gauge

tyres only have to be same brand at each end (ie front and rear) size and profile will need to be all the same as the car came with one size/profile all round from factory

isn't yours the cheap model, with no radio, air con, etc?

i've got 215/45R17's and 225/45R17's on 17x9's, which haven't had any issues. the 225's went on relatively easy, one of the 215's they got on with a big quick burst from one of their bigger compressors, and the second one they put this gooey crap around the rim/tyre bead... apparently they use it to seat the bead of truck tyres? the bike tube method seems to be one of the safest/best options though

mine runs high 70/low 80... RB25, standard clutch fan, PWR rad, no shroud (making the fan do sweet fcuk all)

you don't need to go 5 stud for 32/33 brakes, you can get blank rotors drilled to 4x114.3 noobz, you could bin a car with big brembo's, it depends what your doing at the time. 32 brakes will be an improvement over what you have now.

damn, where am i going to low ball people now?

so how is you wanting to buy an FTO for your gf, skyline related? if you don't like the other stuff, don't read it?

'i fail to see' this burnout picture?