mitchy_

my car was used for a bit of drift over in jah-pan. so it came with alot of adjustable goodies. coilovers are a good choice if thats your plan, but then you can always get the springs, and sell them at a later date for a setof coilies.

coilvers are a whole strut/srping replacement. basically its a perfectly match strut and spring, but all gives you things like hieght adjustment, damper adjustment(how hard/soft the bounces are) and high end ones give rebound adjustment too (how much it bounces) personally, id reccomend the D2's for a good cheap street coilover. teins are quite stiff, however they have just released a 'softer, australian version' they are still quite expensive. ive got teins in my car, whilst it handles like a dream on flat surfaces, find some bumps like a normal road and it can be quite a handful. ask wilkys what they reccomend coilover wise for a street driven 2 (i assume you dont take it to the track much, if at all) and get a price off that. getting springs may be all you need, i dont know how 'hardcore' you want to go with your car(track/street/show?) but coilovers are definately a good handling mod.

like a set of teins, or D2's or something ie.. i think D2's are something about $1200 now? (correct me if im wrong) and will be alot better than just springs and stock shocks. gives you height adjustabilty too. (and possibly damper, again not sure with the D2's)

does your car have stock suspension, or are you considering getting coil-overs? id personally put the $600 towards a set of coilies, but then it might not be feasible at this stage..

haha, hit and run you say?

i want to pull up next to you to say that now

:sorcerer:

it depends on how you drive your skyline... thats like how some people remove the rear seats, and other items for weight reduction. for normal driving out on the street, it is good. but when you start to drive your car on the track, or in a more 'spirited' manner, it can have the negative effect. but with a car like mine, that has quite a drastic suspension setup, the hicas lock bar was a perfect complement to it. and for $150, its not a budget blowing mod!

correct. you can go up 2" in diameter, but only up to 7" wide, unless wider was a factory *option*. (ie, if a gts-t came with 16x7" standard, but there was an option for 17x8", you can have up to 19x8") the above wasnt a option, merely a example.

Jason - yeah, its unfortunate, but different pits have different opinions too, and then at those pits, different inspectors have different opinions too. ie. my exhaust sits about 10mm off my rear bumper, and legally it should sit 25mm from all parts of the vehicle. one inspector listed it on my work order, and the next one ticked it off without even measuring. hell, it comes down to if that inspector got any last night or not either Flash89 - what did you get a yellow for? its a pain in the ass when they write down 'check bov', or 'check height'. what they should be doing, is saying 'ride hieght is 92mm, needs to be raised' or 'bov is making noise, to be made silent'. ok, generally you know if something is illegal or not, but if they just write down 'check ***' people will just change it, take it over the pits claiming the cop was a tosser, and swap it 15 mins after they get the yellow removed. however, dont be fooled. even with a permit, they can still give you a yellow sticker.. my car has a permit for the 'induction system' which consisted of a AFM-less pod filter, and a ARC fmic. on the permit it just says 'induction system (pod filter and front mount intercooler'. since that permit was issued almost 3 years ago, ive changed the pod to one which now has an AFM bolted onto it, and the intercooler has changed to a bigger intercooler, with different piping. now if the cops have reason to believe the mods are different from the permit (ie, youve changed it) or if they seem to be dangerous in some way, they can give you a yellow. ive seen people with permits for pod filters, and get a yellow sticker because their pod filter wasnt properly secured.

they wont issue permits for things you are allowed to have either. ie, strut braces are now on the 'allowed to have' list. when i got my yellow sticker, he noted down the suspension was too stiff. (teins, which ill admit are too stiff formy liking) they passed over the pits like it was factory. but i didnt want to ask for a permit just then, incase he didnt pass them! and he also noted down my BOV was too loud. its a stock BOV, plumbed back, so again, it wont be permitted. it all ultimately depends on who you see at the pits. the pits and the police surprisingly dont have much to do with eachother, its a bad system. i have relations in the traffic police dept, and they were telling me the pits will tell them one thing, but the actual law is another. carbon fibre is a common one. the police are told *all* carbon bonnets are illegal. so they slap a dpi racing sticker on your 1992 r32 with a carbon bonnet. you take it to the pits and it gets removed because its legal. then you go and rant on why this cop is a wanker, because he lickied you legal car. unfortunately there will be discrepencies. but when you buy this kind of car, you should know the connotations that go with it. alot of it is attitude based too. if you do what your told, and even if they are in the wrong, bite your tongue, you might just come out alright.

ring up vic roads.

i think he means 8-900 for the bar itself, and fitting and painting.

cowley will fit it for ya too.

i'd just rather have my car intact, rather than a lawsuit.. but yeah, the voucher is going to mum and her mazda6

rang them first thing this morning (on my lunch break now) spoke to the manager, they are going to re-attach the tie rod arm to the lock bar, align the wheels(front and rear), pay for the tow, and give me a voucher for a free wheel alignment. he was quite apologetic about it, and finding out why that part of the tie rod arm was loosened, rather than the other end. -1 for the event occuring in the first place, but +1 for their effort to rectify the problem. i think its all sorted now...

then why is your mum concerned about having more cars under her name if they are going under your name? all very confusing to me..

why are YOUR car(s), under your mums name?

i installed it myself, and i know it was tight because i borrowed a massive wrench to get it cranked up as tight as humanly possible.

makes it ooooooh so much better to drive. (just make sure if you do get a lock bar, its actually attached properly, mine wasnt..) that said, there is probably many a thread that already covers this issue if you search for "hicas+lock"

we have 6 now :|

2x white, 2 door, turbo-charged, 6 cylinder vehicles. thats where the similarites stop however... flash89 - you will need to get a pre AE86 'rolla if you want rwd. but even still, a fwd one will be fine. my first car was a 1989 ford laser, 1.6L fwd, ran on the smell of an oily rag.

i used to have a 1986 ford tx5 turbo as a second car. was cheapish to run (600km to 60L), and only cost me $1800. however that was sold last weekend, and ive got a brand spankin new holden rodeo 4x2 ute now (ie, got it friday) 3.0L turbo diesal, power windows, cd player, air con, and 4 cup holders. this thing is pimpin'. best of all, company car, company fuel card == happy mitchy.

took my car to an undisclosed location last week to have a wheel-alignment done. the back had a bit of toe in from the recently fitted hicas lock bar. front and rear alignment, easy job? yeah! gave them the car at 8am, handed over my money, and picked it up at 5pm. it seems to drive fine, ie the wheels were straight, it drove in a straight line, $55 well spent. whilst driving to the city tonight, i noticed a slight clicking sound coming from the rear, sounded like a dodgy CV joint click. so i had a quick look under it, couldnt see much really, so i planned on getting it checked out on monday. then when driving from the city to pick up a friend from freo, heading down the freeway, just as you pass the city, and hit the newly done zig-zag part, on the last zag left, the rear suddenly felt like i was drifting... at 80km/h.. down the freeway. NOT cool. so i quickly found my way over to the right hand emergancy lane, got out of the car and sawmy rear right wheel had taken on a new position with about 10 degrees toe in. after further inspection under the car, it would appear that the arm that joins the right rear hub to the hicas, had become detached from the lock bar, thus allowing the right wheel to flap around as it pleased. the only thing stopping the wheel from flapping around violently was the rubber 'boot' that stops dust/dirt getting into the threaded joint. at 80km/h on a sloping surface, whilst turning left, and accelerating out of the corner, you dont really want the wheel bearing alot of the cars weight to suddenly change its orientation. i had the car towed home, no way was i driving that any further. (i couldnt even come up with a cool story, like i was doing this MASSIVE BURNOUT, and it must have come loose from the sheer power) so at 8am on monday, the undisclosed location is going to receive a phone call from yours truly, and they will be explaining how/why this happened, rectifiying the problem, and i expect some form of compensation for the trouble, and the tow home. </rant>

i need some black rims with polished lip to test it out with that, and i dont know if i can get that done.. there is no real lip to my rims, just the outside edge of it.