Bigpad

Well the saga is over. I bit the bullet and bought some splitfire coilpacks. While I was fitting then I replaced the cold NGK plugs I’d fitted for ones recommended by a member on here. Started the car up, the dash lights are off and the stutter is gone. Thank f**k! thanks to everyone who commented. I really appreciate the help.

I bought all the replacement parts from reputable companies here in the uk but you’re correct, that doesn’t rule them out as still faulty. does the ecu report any codes you ask? Hmmmm that might of been some valuable info to include. 🙈🙈 IMG_3772.MOV

So…… Ive been able to plug the car in but don’t really know what I’m doing. I was able to isolate each cylinder in turn and the car behaved as I would of expected. Reset the ecu via the laptop but all warning lights stay on. Ive now replaced the coil pack harness as I wanted to rule it out but still no joy. The car is running ok but it seems to have a ‘stutter’ every few seconds on tickover. Can anyone advise as to where I should be looking next? It’s really bugging me now. Thanks.

The R34 doesn’t have an igniter unit does it? could the issue by the coil pack harness?

So I’ve taken the car for a bit of a drive. It starts and drives just fine. I still have the dash lights on so have bridges the two pins on the diagnostic port. I’m getting code 21 which from what I’m reading is suggesting a coil pack issue. I’ve obviously done the coil packs, spark plugs, MAF and CAS. That doesn’t rule these out of course but the fact that the car starts and runs fine suggests they’re all good. Bridging the pins further and shutting the car off has not gotten rid of the warning lights! Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks. Just need to wait for it to arrive so I can give it a go.

Ok. Any advice on this? Wouldn’t know where to start. I will take a look around the forum. thanks.

Ok thanks. I don’t have a tonne of laptops to choose from so wish me luck. Will take a lifetime to get here from China anyway. I can live with the dash lights until then as long as the car drives alright. Will find out soon enough I suppose. 👍👍

Well I bought a pink label MAF off a low mileage r33 spec 2. I’m told they’re the same? Plugged it in and started the car. It fired and ran just fine (I didn’t take it for a spin as it’s cold and dark and I haven’t done up all of the hose clamps or brackets). However, despite the car seemingly running fine all of the dash lights are still lit up. I won’t know how she runs for sure until the weekend but I’d really like to get those dash lights sorted? Any help or advice would be appreciated! 👍 Also….. Is this what I need:- and then download the data scan 1 software? thanks again. 👊

Definitely going to buy one of those data scan thingies. Thx guys.

Ok I have it running. I did the plugs and coils and it ran. It ran like a bag of shit but it ran. Disconnected the MAF and it ran much better. Plugged the MAF back in and it ran like shit before cutting out. I think I have my problem. I will source a replacement and post the results. Thank you all for your help so far.

How do I know what the ecu is saying? Is there a diagnosis I should be doing? thanks for your comment. 👍

Oh. One thing I did notice while the car was in bits was that the throttle butterfly was fully open. I thought this was odd. Surely with no foot on the gas pedal the throttle should be fully closed? Or is this normal?

So….. I’ve replaced all the coils and made sure I have a spark by fitting a spark plug to one of the new coils and cranking the engine. I’ve ensured I have fuel by removing what I assume is the ‘return to tank’ fuel line and cranking the engine. So I have a spark and fuel and the car still won’t run. Any ideas? may be time to get an auto electrician out!

Thx for the reply Duncan. I didn’t explain myself properly. I didn’t actually get around to changing the plugs and packs. Tried to start the car to pull it onto my driveway and it wouldn’t start. Baffling. Will have a look for those relays when the sun comes up. Thx again.