Sarumatix

LSU4.9 has been around for awhile and used to cost a lot more. It seems that they are actually cheaper now on ebay than 4.2s and that bosch wants to push customers to 4.9s, just about all modern vehicles are using 4.9s in OEM configuration. 4.9s are basically more durable, faster responding, and more accurate. Interesting article here on the difference between the 2: http://www.ecotrons.com/technology/bosch_lsu_49_is_superior_to_lsu_42_sensors/ Some interesting musings in this thread (some of which are from the owner of the company linked above) about converting to 4.9s here: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1033&start=40 it does also turn into a fun shit fight as well .

So you want to know if a Haltech ECU (such as ps2000) can run a Bosch LSU4.9 such as this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Bosch-wide-band-lambda-oxygen-sensor-0-258-017-025-LSU-4-9-WIDEBAND-/140893587376?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cde987b0&_uhb=1 ? Good question . I have sent it directly to Haltech to find out.

You kinda sold me Kinkstaah.. HALTECH TAKE MY MONIES! So all I need is one of these right? http://store.haltech.com/default/o2-controllers-sensors/haltech-wideband-sensor-only.html

I'm currently putting together a RB25DE+T neo running from a PS2000. I am intending on running a flex setup to capitalize on the extra compression, while shopping for the ethanol sensor I noticed a few wideband oxygen sensors. What is the general consensus on the value of a wideband for a flexfuel setup? My build Internally stock R34 RB25DE+T with a turbo head. Haltech PS2000 with flexfuel sensor TD06SH-25G ID1000s and usual supporting mods

Willing to split powersteering pump and bracket?

They are different. The clutch pedal bolts on in GTS-t but has studs in GTRs (or the other way around). Also the clutch master is totally different as are the lines. Get a gts-t clutch pedal and master to save dramas.

Price on exhaust?

Didn't even know they were an option to be honest. They don't look *that* much cheaper for the extra work but given that I already have a set of OEMs I guess i'll keep it in mind if any fail me. Still arguing with powersteering. Trying a Neo bracket and pump now because all the 20/26/25 combinations we tried didn't work.

I get that, it was more about whether there was any difference between an R33 pump and an R34 pump.

Sorry for Necro but... I'm putting a NEO rb25det in an R32 and also having issues with powersteering pump alignment and HICAS removal. I have the RB20 pump, an RB26 pump and neither seem to provide any joy. Next step is to source an RB25 setup, will any RB25 Powersteering pump work or does it have to be off a NEO?

Gearbox in. R32 auto Tailshaft getting chopped up and R33 yoke fitted. Opted to go with the 2 piece as I've heard nothing but dramas from 1 piece setups. Started mucking around with the intake pipework setup, decided that a blow off was too much bother.. ahh the joy of MAP tuning. Getting close to the great wire up, OEM coilpacks are now only AUD330 delivered and for the loom, you can just buy the plugs if you are going aftermarket loom for your ECU! Having a few dramas with the power steering setup, seems like every RB has a different orientation of the pump depending on AWD, HICAS and model. Getting the combination wrong means either the pump doesn't fit or it is positioned to far back or forwards for the drive belt. Going to try a 26 bracket with 25 non-hicas pump, fingers crossed. Also learnt that the heater core piping is much smaller diameter between each model, thus, you will need the water fitting from an RB20 to fit up the heater setup without mucking around. This is tricky to get off and requires a 27mm deep socket to get off easily. Be warned, it is very easy to round the fitting with a spanner even with the engine out of the car. In any case, feeling the progress now, mostly because ACE workshop is doing such awesome work .

Love to see a video of this beauty in action. The obvious question, why the KA?

Interested in exhaust, scared of postage to Melbourne. Thoughts?

Just a little update, a lot of progress happening . Gearbox is just about to go in.

I'll take the coils assuming they are in good condition (were running fine before removal) and that you are happy to post to Melbourne.

Hey guys, Does anyone know where I can source Greddy Parts in Australia? Apparently the only official stockist is in NZ? I'm after one of these: http://www.wbperformance.com/store-products-11900311-Greddy-Type-R-C-Wastegate-Diaphragm_1097995839.html

Price on just the tailshaft? Presumably the VL yoke works with an R33 gearbox.

ok, after a small interlude of a couple of years , I am pleased to see this project is back on track after (quite) a few hurdles and a lot of help from Ace Workshop and sau member Femno. Last post I was looking for how to setup the DE as a +T on E85. I eventually settled on a beautiful genuine trust kit that I bought off a member that had a T67-8cm rear 0 shaftplay, Trust stainless manifold, 48mm external gate. I also found an 040 and surge tank, got some ID1000 injectors and a Haltech 2000 which is supposed to have very nice tuning capability particularly for E85. I then got started on the engine. The first hurdle we found was that a high mount turbo + NA intake design = no chance in hell without modification. You can't use a turbo intake manifold because, unlike all other RB25s, the DE NEO has a smaller intake runner diameter. I should have stuck with a low mount kit, but, i'm nothing if not stubborn so I forged on in the hope that a solution presented itself. Next up, the DE heads have horrible exhaust cams in them: RB25DE NEO Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 6.9mm ex RB25DET NEO Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 8.7mm ex 6.9mm lift seemed like a bad idea, however the exhaust cam doesn't have variable timing so any cam from a solid lifter RB engine will work. I found an RB26dett cam and it slotted straight in, just be aware you will need to use the appropriate CAS for the cam and you should check the valve clearances again. I am fairly sure the valve springs are the same part number for neos. At this point, disaster, I snapped a bolt in the head whilst tightening the cam sleeves. Sadly (and I know my father in law meant well), whilst trying to get the bolt out with an easy-out, a large piece of the head was also liberated. Upon a few peoples advice, that head is now in the bin . To stay low cost, the right thing to do was probably to ditch the whole motor and find another cheap RB25, sadly, I'm stubborn. I bought an RB25det NEO head cheap with a few bits missing and bolted that on top of my DE bottom end. Please note: this is not cheap if you are paying to do it and not without risk, it is a much better idea to leave the stock head on and stay low mount. The advantage to an RB25det neo head on an RB25de neo bottom end is that the compression is left as is but the turbo intake manifold is conveniently short and going a high mount is much simpler proposition, the solution had presented itself . It was then time to put the motor back together, disaster, when I went to find the turbo it had been stolen! I now had a trust kit with no trust turbo . The obvious solution was a kinugawa copy, however they only make trust flanges on the 8cm and 12 cm rear housings. 10cm exhaust housings are not easy to find (right Roy ). Both of those housings weren't perfect for a high compression, E85 chomping RB25, so, I sourced a new TD06SH-10cm from yahoo.jp. Landed on my front door for 1700AUD which I was pretty happy with - http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r111569268. After a quick paint job on the rocker covers (see if anyone can guess the color), the results was: SEXC. Next up is the manual conversion. Disaster, the clutch and flywheel that I had saved up for this project was also stolen in the great heist . In the meantime, whilst trying to find a bug that resulted in huge power drops whilst driving, my purple GTS4s rear turbo died resulting in lost compression . At about this time, I was ready to give up on skylines in general, freaken money pits. Strangely or perhaps thankfully, my wife talked me out of it (she also drives an R32 4-door) commenting that her family have all sold their first pride and joys and have regretted it ever since and that I really didn't have to go down that path. Given that this car has an almost new Nismo twin plate clutch in the same config as the RB25 gearbox I had for Sally, this was the perfect time to pull the 26 out. Given that I had to get Sally to the workshop anyway, I rented a car trailer and spent the day moving R32 4-doors around Victoria. Although I had already cleaned the car down, someone felt that I didn't do a very good job. A bit of workshop degreaser and a high pressure gun and the car was almost sparkling again. Except for strange rust spots all over the body, that, upon closer inspection were actually little bits of overspray that had bound up with the dust. This, along with numerous bumps and scratches, is the cost of leaving a project car in the father in laws garage for an undefined period of time since 2010. With the dust gone and the clutch and clutch assembly successfully pilfered out of the gts4, the pedals could go in. This is an unpleasant job involving being upside down with enough space for one arm to work at a time. This means you can't hold the pedal in place and do up the nut. Getting some help here to have someone wiggle the master cylinder from the engine bay helps. It is also a good idea to take the switches off the pedals first to help get the pedals in much faster. If you are changing the brake pedal as well (which you need to change if you want the pedals to clear without using an angle grinder ) make sure you put the bolt that goes up into the dash first, then do up the nuts on the studs from the master cylinder otherwise it is close to impossible to hold the pedal in position and do that bolt up and you will have to take it all out again . The outcome should look like this: From here I need to lock and cap the HICAS system (junk IMHO), mount the front mount intercooler and oilcooler, replace the diaphragm in the waste gate which has a nice little hole in it, buy an R33 tailshaft (r32 tailshaft yoke is wrong for a 33 gearbox) and get it cut to size, get the gearbox in, then engine, then a whole lot of wiring and plumbing, then ancillaries, get an R33 throttle body (34 det one is too long, has stupid traction control on it), prolly some more plumbing and wiring, mount the 040 and surge tank and then... deep breath, I might be getting close to the first start . I really hope my next update comes a little sooner than the previous few.