Vee37

I kinda accidentally saw this, and was interested, but It actually seems to replaces the whole center computer, using the existing screen and buttons. AND it may only be for a G37 and not compatible with a Japanese 370. So its not for me, but someone else may be interested to look into it. Its about $680USD. If I am understanding it right, it basically replaces/installs and android pc that integrates with the existing screen. But I could be wrong. https://gromaudio.com/vline/ The video I first saw was the following, with very little and unclear details. Even if your not interested in the system, the video on their site was pretty comforting in showing how simple the whole centre comes out

It just occurred to me. The way I am asking for increasing bite as I slow down (ie more bite the more time on the brakes), that is actually sounding like less initial bite, and hence the bite would feel to increase.

Sorry, I must've not been clear enough. On my 350GT, the pads originally on the car created dust to high heaven, and did not squeal at any time. I got new low dust pads, that created absolutely NO visible dust, that squealed when cold. It wasn't the initial bite, so much as an increase in braking, without extra brake pedal pressure, during a single brake instance. I had to lift off a little as my speed decreased to zero. Loved it! Now on my 370GT, I have to press a little harder as I approach zero. Not hard, just harder. I am too lazy and live in a city block with no room or tools to do it myself, so I would be paying someone to do the switch I looked at the three offerings by Intima, and one of them had a Features line that caught my eye. "Strong initial bite with continual rising coefficient". The problem is that this is on their "Trackday, Time Attack, Sprint" pads, not their day-to-day pads. Its possible that JAX installed track day pads on my 350GT, I just don't know. But I was pretty clear I did not track the car and drove the streets pretty gently. https://intimabrakes.com.au/home-corporate/intima-rr/ I'll send them an email and also check if other pads purport that behaviour.

As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance. Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such. And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory. Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described. I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.

I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT. I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?

This is untested by me, however, its one of the weird but well known behaviours of polarisation and Quantum Physics, and may be able to be used here. A simple way to check if sunglasses are polarised, is to take a pair of sunglasses you know are polarised, then hold the pair you want to test so that the lenses are at 90 deg, and when you look through the two lenses, it will be black. However, if you take a third pair and hold them at 45 deg and between the pair, looking through all three lenses will be almost clear. Weird, but supposedly true and it depends on the weird behaviours caused by quantum effects.

He said in the OP Wollongong area.

A few months back I had a failing Cam position sensor, As the car was off the road, I had to order online. And as it was closer to the end of week & wanted the part before the weekend, and if one fails, the other could go soon and it was >$100, I ordered two from two different suppliers, with both saying they were OEM. One came before the weekend, and it was an Italian manufacturer. The second came the following week, and it was the same italian manufacturer. When you check on-line its made by Hitachi (japanese); when fixing US G37's. 🙁 My ones weren't looking that great. I put on a carbon fibre wrap. They look good and the black (its a dark carbon fibre) I think melds into the door better than the original finish; black interior in a black car.

Tunehoouse have sounded knowledgeable for our cars when I have spoken to them. I would hope the electricians you took it to at least first checked that the camera was getting power, the impedance across the unit was not 0, and there was continuity between the camera plug and the screen (much more specific technically). If you have access to a wrecker for these cars, might be cheap to get a camera from a wreck and plug it in to see if an image displays. Of course , the wreaked camera may also be broken.

I use my phone for audio/music so using it for Nav as well. I also like the traffic/hazard/speed camera updates of Waze. So, I spent my effort on a good phone mount. It also keeps the car computer stuff on a seperate screen to my nav. So I had the mid screen computer converted to english. The nav is useless and in Japanese, and most of the led screen between the tach & spedo is in japanese. It was cheap quick and easy (done over internet in NZ, and they send you a CD). The nav on my phone and the car screen showing car stuff works for me personally. I can also have ODBII displayed on my phone. But that is my Nav screen. I like the two screens

I am not certain on the point, but these lights look like your running lights, which are specifically coloured towards the yellow spectrum, as it is more easily seen in fog. And as such may even be required by law to be coloured like that.

I have the same issue, but mine never turns on or shows anything but greyed out. I used to use iut for mobile while the AUX for music. Bluetooth is crappy audio for music. i will be so happy if you find a fix for this! I have tried to find some way of re-booting/re-initialising/resetting the centre computer to start from a working state.

If you are replacing with android, then you will use android nav software, so you will have Australian maps. In one of the screen shots they show, they explicitly have Waze installed, which is what I use on my phone. However, waze requires an internet connection so itr will need a sim to use waze or share your phones internet connection. Its brilliant to avoid traffic and speed traps. For my parents, I have installed "HERE We Go" which all9ows you to download maps over WiFI (or shared internet), and then run navigation (australian maps) without an internet connection.

I haven't had the car for over two months, and that sounds kind-a familiar. I'll try it tomorrow. I'm still getting used to the car again, after driving hire cars for the last two+ months. They had it so I could just grab the door handle, and maybe thats where I was confusing it with. Although, the double press for the passenger is new to me. With the boot, I am sure I used to be able to see that it was popped open. But again, maybe I am used to other cars now, and relied on the dashboard light. Anyone know if it's a spring or the struts or totally normal from new, that would be the cause for its lack of sticking up? PS: for me, the 1mm for the boot is an exaggeration. from memory, it looks like its 100% close, but when you lift it, the lock is disengaged.

Hi, I recently had some panel work on my drivers door. It took ages as they had to order the side mirror from Japan. The repair guys are very good, and will look into it, but I thought I better check before I demand a fix. I am sure that before the work, when the car was locked, it would auto unlock if I had the key close enough to the door (even in my pocked, so not that close) and try to open the locked door. Am I remembering correctly? and should the same occur for the passenger door?" The other thing that is not quite right, is that when I pop the boot, it only pops up about a millimeter. How much should I expect the boot to pop up when I click the boot release. Looking at mine, you cant even tell the boot is unlocked. I also note that when I close the boot, it comes down harder than what I remember.

Man, you outdid yourself. You could put that in a display cabinet. It shines! Sorry of I have slowed you down, I understand your car is off the road right now, and did mine from start to finish in one sitting, on an afternoon, both sides; if one fails, the other will follow. And for me, I think one totally stopped (drivers side) while the other maybe started to intermittently fail. I should of written up what I did when I originally did it, so its from a memory and what I would do now. So what the numbers mean: 1. the spiral insert / plastic worm drive. I cleaned it out the old grease by twisting a clean dry rag into the gears. In a perfect world, I would of repacked it with NON electrical grease that would not degrade plastic/silicon. As I thought it was only going to be temporary fix (I never expected 10+ years), I just used some grease I had (not that I would admit to it, but I would not be surprised if it was simply vasoline from the bathroom.... 🤡) 2. More cleaning and replace old grease with plastic safe & non-electrical grease 3. This is where I polished and put a light coat of electrical conductive grease. It was the gouges in your photos of the polished surface that the grease was hopefully to fill and improve the transfer of electricity, And more focus in the band shaded by wear in your before photo 4. Just a good clean (the case/magnets were clean well when done), I don't think I greased it at the time. Maybe a light non electrical grease MAY be beneficial it in case its spinning while going over a bump, and hits the magnets. IDK 5. This is where I went to town with the electrically conductive grease. This is the ground contact, and if the point is worn down away, the grease makes up the gap, and it is spinning metal on metal with no bearings. Hence the possible wear in my mind.

Thats why I was explicit about a very LIGHT application and checking there is no conductive grease crossing/shorting between the contacts. However, what I did want is the grease to not only lubricate the contact between the ring/bars on the spindle and the carbon contacts but also to cross any increase gaps/tolerances due to wear. I definitely did NOT want to put anything between the carbon contacts and the spindle contact that would hinder/block the flow of electricity.

No definitely not. Thats why I said a very thin coat. The gaps made up are for between the brushes and the spindle bands, for lubrication. I used the electrically conductive grease to make sure it didnt act as an insulator. If anything, use a sharp pick (say toothpick) to ensure there is no contact/electrical path between them due to the grease. The grease is probably not there on new ones, but mine were not flat and shiny. It was many years ago now, but I have a vague memory they looked pretty gouged. And with so may years of wear, I was taking no risks of sanding them any more than needed. The more I think of it, my repair was probably closer to 10+ years ago (and hence lasted 10+years). Its not like I do this for a living, so didnt get to know the full construction (and metal thikness, so err'd on the side of caution). I just used logic and understand of how it worked, to know what I had to do and where, and where not to apply the grease. Just at the pointy end of the spindle (lots there) and small carefully applied amount around the spindle carbon contacts (and I think I lubed up in the carbon contact holder area, and stretched the springs a little). ie the two electrical contacts. As for dielectric grease, two post above yurs makes it clear it does the exact opposite for electrical connections.

I also remembered another step I did when fixing my window motors. Where the carbon brushes push against the spindle, there is a what looks like a brass ring/tube (broken for electrical distribution to the coils). Mine wasn't completely shiny, so I gently also polished that up to look bright and shiny using Brasso (from Coles or such I think). But be careful, from memory mine looked very worn/thin, and I felt at the time that if I went too far, I may of taken it all off. And be sure to clean it off again (ie the abrasive Brasso) before the grease, and I put a very thin layer of grease there. For lubrication and to make up any extra wear gaps.

Dielectric greaser is not electrically conductive. It will block the electricall power to run the motor. Possibly making it worse than it is now. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/what-is-dielectric-grease/

I personally avoid WD49 like the plague. Its Water Displacement. From memory, and what I have "lying around", I would of used an electrical cleaner spray can from JayCar as well. WD40 will leave unwanted stuff coating the surface. on a side topic, for non-electrically conductive lubrication, I have found the PTFE lube SOOOOOOOO much better. https://www.jaycar.com.au/dry-lubricant-spray/p/NA1013 I thought about getting replacement bushes, but to not delay the fix, I did the clean, thinking I could use it while I looked. But, it worked and kept on working! and I was lazy to look. There just a block of carbon, so I was thinking something close could be modified to the correct size. I also found a US company that sold new G35 window motors with a 25y guarantee. ummm... thats the one I linked above, that is NOT the one I used at the time, but looks right for whats available today. And the more I think of it, I probably did mine around 10+ years ago. ie the fix worked for around 10y

when I got my v35, they worked. Then one stopped (and later the other). I took mine out, cleaned out the casing AND the bushes, gently pulled the bushes out a little, to extend the springs so they actually pushed against the electrical spindle contact. AND selectively greased them up (at the pointy end and slightly around the contacts) with electrically conductive grease I got from JayCar. They both then worked flawlessly for another 5+ years when I got a V36 ie they never failed again. I checked Jaycar, they dont sell the same brand anymore (it was >5y ago), but similar/effectively the same nonetheless. When they were flaykey, I used to band on the side of the door to get them up when I parked, so I would *guess* the bushes were sticking. In my first attempt, I think I actually tried normal grease, and that failed miserably. Not the one I used https://www.jaycar.com.au/conductive-carbon-grease-50g/p/NA1034

For the cost of a phone call, ring the guy and ask; if he is near you. He will also give you a firm quote on the phone call. I am guessing he would simply program what is standard in the key, but you got nothing to loose. And if remote start is in the infinity (ie US) maybe he has a program & FOB for that. IDK

When I had new keys coded, its was a multiple step process, using a portable ODBII scan tool, which I *think* was specifically setup to code new keys (all manufacturers, not just Nissan). The guy that did my keys (2008 370GT) gave me two newly programmed & cut keys, on the spot, for what I thought was a pretty reasonable price. But I dont have remote start. I dont think the original of my V35 or V36 had this feature; that I knew of