Vee37

THAT is the exact android app I was Talking about! The one thing thy dont make clear, is if there is a difference in the PID's that are logged/monitored between windows and android. Although the windows program does look more comprehensive in features. I find the Android app good enough for codes and quick monitoring. But the big thing for me are the error codes.

JayCar, and use an Android Phone

Even if you want for something better long term, maybe try a JayCar ODBII scanner (about $70), an android phone and the free trial app on the playtore. Its time limited, but more than enough to read & clear codes. I also have a Blatz cable I never used; I now have a V36. From memory, you use a laptop.

This is still not working! and every time I get a call while I am driving it grates me knwoing it used to work. I read or saw some youtube suggestions of rebooting the system, by holding down the status (I think its the middle button on the left, but I have tried just about all with the power button) & power button for 190 sec, but I didnt seem to get it to work. It may be only Infinity G37'w. Has anyone done a reboot on the 370GT? Mine is 2008. One thing I have been meaniog to try, and it is the kinda the event that I think triggered it. I didnt drive my car for 2 months, and the battery went flat. If I dont drive it for a week, the battery is always totally charged. Maybe I left the internal light on IDK. So I am thinking of disconnecting the battery for an hour or so, and checking if that helps/corrects it. but its a hail mary. Any other ideas? I am truly hoping the Bluetooth module hasnt been damaged in anyway by the slow discharge. Nothing comes up on the ODBII scan, and I found the system info page, and it implied the bluetooth was ok/present from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332357-v36-skyline-japanese-translation-document-work-in-progress/page/4/

Its an old thread, but I saw something last night that had never happened before on my 2008 370GT Coupe. I *think* I normally get around 500 kms between each full tank. I dont go to totally empty, but at least till it stops giving an estimate how much is left. I normally do most of my K's around the city, in traffic, and Im not a lead foot. I also see that if you add the KM's travelled (trip meter) plus the estimated range left to empty, its always more than I get. On monday night, I did a trip from sydney to macarthur, mostly via freeway, back to sydney, and then back to macarthur, and then back to sydney the next day not using the toll road. Long story... and looong drive. Not all is freeway. When I got close to city (around pyrmont) with loooots of late night roadworks along the way, my trip meter said I had done around 300KM and the range indicated I had another 400KM remaining. thats an estimated 700KM on a single tank. Are others seeing these kind of reading/estimates. Driving through the traffic soon after, it dropped pretty quickly. I made a wrong turn in the changed traffic conditions due to poorly posted construction diversion, and had a wasted tight loop through backstreets to get back on track.

https://peconline.com.au/ Ring them, they have parts not shown / searchable on their website.

I do Android dev and also tend to have previously used premium old gen Android devices. My previous device (3 years ago but sold in 2013) is still good for this, and I bought My last one for around $40. I dont know if there are any still available, but at $40 off eBay, its less than the Jaycar dongle ($70 ????). It was a Samsung S4 GT-I9506. I think i have about 3 lying around. It has a removable battery as a bonus. No need to pay someone to install a new battery on an old device. The GPS is borked on old Android devices, but its more than powerful to run most stuff as long as your not playing games. It was premium at the time.

Jaycar for the Bluetooth dongle. I had a cheapie eBay one, I used for years on my V35 Coupe, but I read somewhere of the eBay versions frying a cars ECU, so I "upgraded", to a cheapie Jaycar one.... even though my $15 one from ebay worked fine for years on my V35 and the software is NDSIII Lite v1.3 running on an android phone; vIII for v36 and vII for V35's. The lite one has a time limit, but its waaay long enough to read & clear codes. The graphs die over a long trip. Its on the playstore. And I just scrolled up to see that I included screen shots of that🫣 I now plan to run a check every month or so, and not just wait for something I notice. On a side note, I ordered two from two different sources, in case one arrived faster I could get my car on the road sooner, as only one reported failure. When the second one finally arrives, I'll put that one on. It really was a doddle to fit it. One 10mm socket wrench, 1 non-tourqued bolt and no removing anything to get to it or even having to reach deep into the engine to get to it. It was right there.

They are everywhere! including OEM from ebay. just be sure to include the dash in your search. https://www.google.com/search?q=+22690-AL600+australia

A LOT has happened since (not just the car). But long story short, P0021 (cam pos sensor) can trigger a P0524! (low oil pressure) I read it in the G37 manual. I started to get misfires, cleared the codes, drove gently, didn't get low oil pressure. But the CAM pos sensor came back & it also started to misfired with the appropriate code. All made sense for a cam sensor to me. So, I did the obvious and what the ODBII was telling me, and replaced the CAM sensor, and all is fixed. And it *may* even be better performance & fuel economy. Too early to tell. Just fixed late Thu and only driven Friday.

AAARRRRGGHGHHHHhhhh!!! I think I may just have had a gallery gasket failure. I am getting the following codes, and it aligns with this guys video on youtube for expected fault codes (not that he is some Nissan Legend or anything). But Low Oil pressure sounds logical. I think these are both oil related. P0021 definition: Intake Camshaft Position Timing- Over-Advanced (Bank 2) : https://www.fixdapp.com/blog/p0021-code/ P0524 Nissan Code - Engine Oil Pressure Too Low - https://www.autocodes.com/p0524_nissan.html WAAAAIT a sec, he was possibly wrong, he later says his gaskets were ok (they weren't visually sticking out). But then he found a possible leak/failure point. @ video time 13:00 I dont think I have catastrophic failure, as the car drives, and when I turn it off, the Check Engine light disappears and doesnt come on until and only sometimes, when I experience the misfires; which only happened about 3 times on a 45min drive and only under harder throttle. Has anyone else experienced this failure? I have read its about 15% of G owners. Lucky me... I'm hoping its something else

Wait a sec, am I reading the parts diagram correctly, in that the whole windscreen sprayer is one whole connected piece WITH the distribution duct ie you cannot simply buy/replace an individual spray nozzle, but have to replace both AND the connecting duct/tubing as a single item?

BOY! this post moved FAST! Regarding using a sewing needle to re-aim. I actually just bought some wooder tooth picks today to correct the aim of my passenger side, which points to low and too far left, almost out of the wiper coverage path, but just in, so useable, but not great. Careful using metal inserted into the tips, as you could damage the outlet/jet shape.

Are your nozzles actually damaged, or do they simply need to be re-aimed? I would guess if they do need replacement's, the exact part number would be used by another Nissan vehicle that weres sold in Australia. Have you checked the part number or did you explicitly ask for one specifically for a V36 import?

195,000 miles? was that a typo? thats over 300k Km

I dont know. I haven't really followed the thread and thus dont understand the use, I just have a knee jerk reaction to people using WD40, and had no idea WD40 did a PTFE one or ever used it. My can from JayCar has lasted me for years, and so is my first and only can. I did buy another can once for someone else who had a temp car with a very squeaky fan belt, and the WD40 he used lasted for 1 drive where as the PTFE went on working. I originally got this stuff to also use near electricals, which reading the WD40 version, has no mention specifically at bunnings blurb. To be clear, I dont actually know which would be better. However, JayCar is cheaper, specifically meant to work near electronics (ie not conductive) AND you still get more. Also, I just notice it does explicitly suggest use in automotive cases. https://www.jaycar.com.au/dry-lubricant-spray/p/NA1013?pos=2&queryId=f216ad417d61e2f0f75768df405fb90b&sort=relevance&searchText=lubricant And to be clear, maybe the grease still might be a better option. I know I use it for my garage Door tracks.

Note, WD40 is not a lubricant. It is "Water Displacement 40". It will also dissolve grease and fall away & the area will "dry up". It just happens to provide a very temporary apparent lubricant action. I personally think it evil as it gives an immediate impression something is lubricated, but it will actually make it even worse in the long run. I now use the PTFE spray (tiny plastic marbles) where most would use WD40.

I dont know where we are talking about or followed the thread, but if its electrical, PTFE lubricant may be better. You can get it from JayCar.

Doh! I bet on High Fructose Corn syrup... yeah, I knew it was high flow cats.

Regarding taking pictures, i've already started taking some snapshots of the projection against various walls, of the existing state, even before the new gtlobes arrived. I also have downloaded an app for my phone which will hopefully give some measurable (but not calibrated) difference in the Kelvin's between the existing and these new ones. I already have apps for LUX readings. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.contechity.color_temp_meter Annoying thing is that this week is probably not going to give me a chance to get them installed.😠 With the LED's, the serious problem I saw was with the projection pattern. It was all screwed up by the globes. And as I said, I was not going to be the test pilot. As for differences with the previous gen [sarcasm]these new ones are rated at 6200 while the old ones are a measly 6000 thats a whole 3% more blue...[/sarcasm] In reality, I think the difference would be that OSRAM found a way to make them cheaper (to them). I also noticed that the originals actually state the lumens, while the gen 2's don't have that stated (at least on PowerBulbs web site). So I would also guess that they lowered the total lumens some small indiscernible amount in the process.

I went with the "OSRAM Xenarc Cool Blue Intense Next Gen D2S (Twin)", and they just arrived at Sydney Airport this morning. The previous gen are no longer manufactured. Powerbulbs shipped them promptly, but it sat with RoyalMail at a UK airport for 5 days! https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-cool-blue-intense-next-gen-d2s-twin As for colour (ie Kelvin), I know they are going to be a major step up from the current yellow of the stock, and most probably faded bulbs. The exact numerical Kelvin is not of a concern, its how they appear, and all the YT vids look even "cleaner" than new Phillips Xtreme Visions @ 4800K. I did not go the "OSRAM Xenarc Cool Blue Boost D2S (Twin)" as it had the text "Not Road Legal" in the description. I watched some YT on LED replacements, and it appeared to be a bit of a lucky dip. I did find some D2S LED replacement bulbs, but I wasn't going to be the test pilot. Not too eager to look/replace myself, as I live in the city, with a tiny garage (car only just fits and only one car door can be opened and its still a contortion act to get in), no room for tools or work, and to be honest, lazy. PS: Probably too late, bur there are CBI Next Gen in D4S https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/osram-xenarc-cool-blue-intense-next-gen-d4s-twin

Yeah, I come from, an engineering/science/IT background, so looked at the tech info, as much as could be with their mix of advertising & technical statements, that were different measurements between products (in the vid below, he even catches them, contradicting themselves). Including reviews where people physically tested the outputted LUX see vid below. And the surprise readings from the OSRAM Classic in the vid below shows how the stats are not totally indicatory. I think the choice was in the low 4000 or in the 6000's and there isn't a sliding scale, its individual products as sold. ie Your choice is what they make. I also have a vague memory of something I read, that the manufacturers can make the higher kelvins brighter for less. If I had gone for another one ("Laser" which was my primary choice a few days ago), the LUX would be higher, but the yellow wasn't looking good for me. The one I got was only a 7% less LUX reading. ie indiscernible by the human eye. I went blue. Now the real upgrade is going to be between what I have now and the new bulbs, as thats what I have paid money for. For that comparison I expect... ermmm... well .... a day & night difference😉I am guessing my bulbs are orig and have faded over 15ys, on top of being lower base models fitted at the factory. The colour change is also going to be a nice modernisation. This video was one of the last I watched. It was interesting to see that one of the strongest outputs was from a basic model (OSRAM Classic). Which I also think was the one offered to me today when I checked what my mechanic could do. But just too yellow. The colour doesn't show so much (between the higher kelvin ones) in this video, but when people drive around with different globes in youtube, the lower kelvin globes really look like sepia photographs in comparison.

Just an FYI, I've just bought these bulbs. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/osram-xenarc-cool-blue-intense-next-gen-d2s-twin I went with the bluer lights, as when I saw the youtube clips, although the yellow is suppose to be better for driving, to me it looked like a Ye-olde Sepia photo. I think the blue looks more modern and is in line with the LED lights installed on high end cars of today. If they are as bright as all that, I am thinking of maybe putting on a very slight tint to the headlights (within the legal limits), on my black car. The "OSRAM Xenarc Cool Blue Intense D2S (Twin)" @ $119.49 are out of stock. When I asked when they would get them in stock, they told me they are no longer in production and referred me to "OSRAM Xenarc Cool Blue Boost D2S (Twin)" Which are stated as not being road legal! be careful. I got a quick estimate from my mechanics of around $110 to install. Based on an hourly rate & time estimate.

No recommendation or any real personal experience, but I recently spoke on the phone with who I think is the owner of Jax at Marrickville. I was looking for a quick pink slip, and my local Jax had closed and I was auto-routed there. When he asked what car I had (2008 370GT Coupe), he informed me he used to own one himself. on a side, I brought my car from VIC and when another shop did the required blue slip for rego transfer across state lines, they wrote the wrong year as 2018 instead of 2008 (or it was typed incorrectly at the motor registry), so I didnt need one, which was a blessing since I was pushed for time. But Im not too worried as the correct year is on my third party and on my normal insurance.

I haven't followed this thread to closely, but recently I had to purchase something from the US that was not car related, that did not ship to AUS. I found a service that gives you a US or UK postal address, and then redirects that to your Australian address. My item was only about 3lbs (it was American so imperial), and when I did the numbers, it worked out a lot cheaper than one company that did sell the same base model, but it had no options for upgraded accessories/additions and was well overpriced compared to buying it directly from the manufacturer. It was a cheap item, so it was also a test. The package has been delivered to my US address and is on its way here. The web site allows you to join without committing to a years membership (and had free upgrades for a trial). If I had to have a complaint till now, its that from the time it reached my US address till the time it was sent to / collected by DHL, it was so short, there was no tracking within the US address system, it was straight out for AU delivery! The other issue I had, was not with the re-director, but with DHL, that appeared to delay my package for no reason. As soon as I contacted DHL, they told me to contact the shipper, and when I contacted them, DHL updated my package status with 24hrs and the re-director apologised for the DHL delay. I got a tracking number from the manufacturer to track it to my US address, and now I have a tracking number provided by the re-delivery, for delivery to AUS. I also have a StarTrack tracking number for delivery within AUS. They also had a calculator where you entered the weight and the dest address to get an estimate of the shipping cost, before you sign up. Both my source and the re-director used PayPal, so it was pretty painless to pay. There were other companies, but the three I found, this one looked the best for my purposes; and as bothered as I could be with searching & researching. http://myus.com