Vee37

Yep, YOUR RIGHT, I was WRONG! I would loose that bet! luckily I'm not a betting man. I found the exact same diagram as below (ie similar to your V35) in the G37 manual I use. I use the 2009 G37 manual, and I also found a page or two later the following. Which simply confirms that the communication to the speedo is using the CAM protocol, and not simply a pulse-frequency to transmit the speed, as I originally thought/hoped. I am speaking with a guy here in Sydney that thinks he may be able to modify the computer to adjust the speed. But he sounded like he thought there would be a limited range of adjustment available. The other obstacle is that my current tyres are a temp situation. So I would need to adjust again when I change my wheels. I went low profile (30s) as I got cheap ones (just temporary until I upgraded wheels) I expected the cheap tyres to be of questionable grip/handling, but they got really good reviews on-line, and now that i have them, they are really hard to fault and are matching my previous (350GT with continentals being 3 times moire expensive) . I would buy again. <start rant>Not to get all conspiracy theory on this, but the 10% under from factory on basically all cars, when multiplied out for the billions of cars doing hundreds of thousands of K's, the auto industry (inc oil change, services etc etc) are taking the cream. This would be costing the consumers billions of dollars. It also bothers me a little that until I change my wheels, my Odometer is going to be showing more K's<end rant>

I am willing to bet that the individual speed sensors on each wheel are for the specific use by the traction control and not used for the speedometer. The car in the above linked video would also have traction control, and they only install a single unit. If it was otherwise, the manufacturer would also have the same issue, as well as mixing functional units, and mixing safety items with non-safety needs. My understanding of what I have seen, is that the speedometer is simply a single rate counter of an electronic pulse. In the above example it runs off the final drive out the gearbox (like it always has before ECU's using a spinning cable). The number of pulses that occur over a given time period, gives angular / rotation speed, and the speedo is simply scaling that number up/down by multiplying it by the wheels outside diameter, to give meters per second. The above module and the one I originally linked, simply send a slower / faster pulse by a multiplier (%), thus tricking the speedo into thinking its rotating at a different rate, and hence the car is travelling at a different speed. This would be similar as If i put 13" wheels with 30 series tires, or then changed them to 22" rims with 45 series tires. The actual physical speed is irrelevant, its simply a numerical calculation for visual representation ie the dash instrument facing the driver. My plan is to go through the parts catalog to find where the sender unit is placed. Checked the parts.... OK. Interesting, there is a sensor at the back of the gear box (similar to the example vid above) that is labeled "SENSOR ASSY-REVOLUTION". That sounds pretty much like what I was expecting, even before I checked for it. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Nissan&ssd=%24*KwE2AhN_bl93d0YzQHofHm56Wl1DMj0wMSMwJmBFeSFwJzgiHnFjJmhlYCY_WSIFYm0oJ1oxJikgWG5xEnl7d2pgRXkiMDorJj86NjEpIG06MG0-J1oxJikgdT5xdSYxMTBFJTIwb3EyenNrZ0R-IGkpcXUmQ1BCSUAgLH86PCY_IEBPUzE2aWN8NTA3ISgnZ2F_aRRZeAAAAAClhw-n%24&vid=0&gid=438&q=CKV36-403155

hmmm... this may explain another thing. I tried sticking my electronic toll pass out of sight, on the back of the mirror. It didn't beep. When I stuck it to the glass behind the mirror. It did beep. It was a single test of each, so it may have to do with the tolling system (some toll roads only toll you in one direction)

Thats perfect. Its basically like the other one, but cheaper to start with, and its in AUS! I like the other ones under card / out of sight / water resistance abilities and possibly plug and play. This ones install sounds a little more complex. (from manual) But with JayCars return policy (7 days), its looking good. Thanks. EDIT: Now that I added a search for "Speedo Correction Module" I actually found info on people who may install it, and forum posts of people who have installed it. But not on a V36.

Its irrelevant where the rotation / angular velocity is measure from. It still uses the calculation of angular speed multiplied by diameter (ie 2 * ¶ *R) over time = speed. I am changing the diameter/radius without telling it, so it will assume the wrong diameter, and thus calculate the wrong speed. You have to have both angular rotation speed and diameter accuracy, to then calculate the correct speed. On my previous 350GT, I started with 18" and went to very wide 19" (profile kicked up the OD, even though they were low) and the speed actually became more accurate due to the lower angular velocity; still a little out, but better. Manufacturers have always underestimated the calculated speed, probably so no-one sues them because they unwittingly get speeding fines; they would of course claim safety.

Has anyone re-calibrated their speedo? I changed my tires (width & profile) and went down a bit in OD,which has really screwed the accuracy of my speedo. I found the following product, which looks really interesting. https://yellr.com/ and here is a vid explaining how it works and is configured. I will send them an email asking its availability in AUS and if they have a dealer and if its compatible with a 2008 370GT; or at least a 2009 G37. But if someone already has experience with it, that would be brilliant. PS: I think my speedo is about 20% out!

I am having my oil changed for the first time, and I saw your post. Looking at the Z445, on Ryco, it actually says it interchangeable with the Z436, so maybe thats why they didnt bother to correct it. I have purchased both the Z436ST AND the Z547ST with instructions for the mechanics to try the Z547ST (ie the bigger one) first. Doing quick calcs, I think there would be about 50% more filter surface area on the bigger one (assuming 10mm of case height on both is for the mechanics of securing the filter in place; ie 5mm at top and 5mm bottom). Here are some photos showing the two in comparison. The only visible difference in the photos are because one is higher and thereby closer to the lens. But the 1mm difference in diameter of the seal is totally not discernible to the naked eye. But, yeah, the big one is notable bigger. Thanks!

My one I got recently was jammed full with J-Pop and Japanese-rap. Its was about 95% full! I started clearing out album by album, but found that that was just impractical and tedious. So I went in and deleted / reset the Music Box. Lost a few albums I had put in, but it was quicker to put these back, than delete each unwanted album individually. One thing I did notice when I deleted each album individually, the used readout did not reduce. It obviously keeps it in a trash box to enable a restore.From memory, I think I even found where that was. PD: Just realised this thread was from Feb LAST YEAR, not this year...

Argggghhhh! lost my response due to firewall & web security / integrity checks by SAU! Anyway, The drivers dash between the tach and speedo has a digital display. If I cycle through these on my 370GT, I can get a graph showing the instantaneous economy, OR I can get a digital numeric average to a single decimal point of my economy (eg 6.7l / 100Kms). Attached is a photo of the area I am speaking of, but I dont have photos of the actual two readout examples handy. The slightly confusing thing between the center computer and the dash readout, is that they each have their own independent reset points/methods. On my previous 2003 350GT, it was the same as it is now in my 370GT. It creates a new bar in the history only when you reset the value, not by distance or time. I would reset it every time I filled up the tank. So, each bar in the history was the average I got for each tank of gas, because thats when I reset the value.

OK, my bad, its embarrassing, as it works exactly like it worked on my 350GT. A new bar will appear when you press the reset. My excuse is that on the hire car I was using recently, it was distance based. FYI: Its bad because I pressed reset in quick succession to gets a graph up and running, so economy was bad in heavy rain traffic

As can be seen in the attached pictures, my current average economy is working in my computer, but when I go to the history, its blank. The current average is working, the instantaneous vertical bar also works, but I was parked for the photo so it was not drawing anything But when I click on "Fuel Econ [DISPLAY]" I get the following blanks. oooo.... it just dawned on me, maybe I didn't drive the car far enough to register even the first bar. Does anyone know the approx distance of each bar? Also, can someone confirm that the two text labels at the bottom are not "click-able", but only there for display?

Just a bit of extra info. I dont use an iPod, but I found the following cable in my center storage area, which looks like it probably acts as the interface cabling between the V36 plug and the actual iPod plug interface

Yeah, I wouldn't trust them. But they did have some cheap tires & wheels (which I checked for reviews on a different/independent web site). Suspicious thing for me is that they allow you to specify exactly the offset you wish. With the spacers so prominently displayed on the walls, I suspect they achieve your requirements using spacers. Another thing that these guys have and do actually need, is that you can sit in the showroom and watch the work being done through an observation window. At least at Hoxton Park. As for my search, on an unrelated note, found a site that allows you to preview your car with the wheels. But in contrast to the image it generates, my windscreen is not tinted... But I would also add a flat hub-cap to the centers. You can grab the url from the image to have a play.

Yep. Found it. And its soooo obvious once you know where to look, and have seen the images above of the motor taken out of the engine bay. And the trick is, not look down, close to the firewall, but be positioned a little more forward (say have your head above/near the strut), and angling down to the exhaust exit from the manifold shielding, and trying to view behind the flywheel sensor. With a very bright LED torch, there is a small window/space where you can see a shiny reflective machined flat surface, that has the engine number on it. And if you move your head a little left/right & up & down, you can pick off the numbers a few at a time. But it was impossible to see the whole thing at once; at least for me on my car. We actually called someone younger with better eyes to check it aligned with what was on paper.

Yep, thats what I had, and it died on me, but mine was USB. It was brilliant. Hi-Res, Video and Photo with a light of course. Bought from a Chinese store, so they didn't respect any warranty. Also, the one I got was for ear cleaning/inspection. it was not waterproof or hardened in any way I bought a USB J-Car one on Friday for $50; with a lot better returns & support policy than eBay, but I cant seem to find a phone app that utilises it. It looked good, as was waterproof and a little hardened. But is dead to my phone. I am also very time restricted now. I need this done in the next day or two. So no waiting for delivery. I have to use the tools at hand. I'm now off to check this new location, and play with my Lizard...err I mean Inspection Camera.

I got the tires at Ozzytyres, and there was another guy there who was cursing the guys there. They had put spacers on his new Merc, and if I understood what he was saying, a wheel stud broke. Not only did he not know that they had put spacers on, he didn't even previously know what a spacer was. I couldn't believe how he was bad mouthing them well within earshot, and everyone acted like friends. I was surprised to see spacers on the walls for sale. Since they are illegal; at least on road cars. He also told me (loudly) how he had posted a bad review on their wed-site, and it magically disappeared. I pretty much know what the wheels will look like. I will get the same look as in the OP, just a different brand, and maybe "smoked" (my ca is black), as Stance don't sell those in AUS anymore, and they were very expensive. Well, I threw away the one that was taken off (may still be in my trash). Your welcome to the other one. And just for others, my small extra stud was exactly like the one in the first parts diagram, and not like the ebay one. It did not go through the rotor and hub, but simply screwed into the disc rotor. ie no need to remove the disc rotor, just the wheel. It was only being held on with a very few turns. It was (just as in the diagram) a bolt going through a sleeve. As for using the bolt to help remove the rotor, the wheel guy who tested my wheels fitment, thought it was a simple metric bolt you could get at bunnings. Do they have a similar bolt/stud on the rears?

In the video, it actually sounds that the car has started, but then quickly dies. I also note that it looks like your headlights are on. For battery issues, turn your headlights off. But, the fact that it actually does sound like it starts, I am going to guess its not a flat battery, but may be a failing battery IDK. On my previous car (350GT), I used a Bluetooth ODBII scanner connected to my phone to read the codes. It was cheap, but priceless. I just got the 370GT, so am scared to plug it in, at least till after I have sorted out my NSW registration transfer.

I dont think its missing (at this stage), just looking in the wrong place. I found a thread that talks about the above proposed location diagram being taken from a 2004 engine that is in a VQ36; which I *think* is a different motor. Even better, I found an Infinity G37 motor for sale on ebay, out of the car. The following two images show that the engine number is much lower, and I think near the oxygen sensor / exhaust (and a flywheel sensor, visible on both) on the drivers side. And the engine number I can see is in the exact same format (obviously a few different digits) as my rego papers show. Here's hoping these American Infinity G37, have the same engine number location as the Japanese 370GT I also found the same or very similar location (hard to tell as they were in different states of dismantlement) Although it is also sourced from outside AUS (ie USA), for a 370Z, Same motor PS: And yes, I think it would be easier to read from underneath, but would still require a mirror or inspection camera.

Ooooo... I think I might be screwed. I looked for images of the rear of a motor to actual see an example of the engine number on the block, and I found the following image of the area, and I don't see the engine number! The above is a video of the dismantling of a VQ37VHR from a G37 (search YouTube for "G37/370z VQ37VHR Motor Teardown PART 2" and its near the end of the video at ab out 15:15) And it gets more concerning. I have a joke gift of an inspection camera (as seen on TV stuff, a friend bought me after my HQ inspection one broke) As below. Very low res and tiny screen. Yesterday I tried hunting around where I thought the Engine number would be located, as per above, and I did find a blank area that I think would look like the blank area above on the tore down engine. I have compiled a list of "Nissan Mechanics" in Sydney I will call tomorrow, and see if they can find the engine number. I am also going to hunt through and find a similar Nissan V6 engine released in AUS; apart from the 370Z, and hope it has the same location as the 370GT. ARrrrggggthhhhh!

A shorter thread, but a duplicate... Lots of duplication.

I have brought a 370GT Coupe from Victoria to NSW. As such, I need to get a Blue Slip, which entails a physical check of the engine number stamped onto the block. The mechanic doing the test, could not read it, even after I told him where it was. I am going to try tomorrow, but from previous glancing views of the engine bay, it looks pretty tight, such that viewing down there may be obstructed by other stuff.The mechanic has already taken off the plastic engine cover. Is there any trick or advice for being able to see it? If I can get a photo of it, that would suffice for the mechanic. I plan to use an LED torch and then try a selfie stick with my phone, to hopefully maneuver it into a position I can get a photo of it. I also have a cheapie inspection camera, but that is VERY low resolution, does not take photos (so it would be a photo of the low res screen) and I haven't tested it for a while. It really feels like a toy, its only saving grace is that its water proof. And the selfie stick has not been used either. Is there a trick/method to physically viewing the engine number stamped on the block?

I had a failure while driving over very rough road (potholes/construction) and quick left & right turns (left-right through some back-roads). The phone bounced out of the holder, twice within a few hundred meters. But stayed in place for the other 100km. I think a spring/elastic band to hold the opposing horizontal arms together (instead of gravity pushing down) will solve this issue. I also think if I had the charger cable plugged in, it would of stayed in place.

and they did not fit. They cut really bad into the brembo's. The guy suggested spacers, but insurance wouldn't pay-out if they found out in an accident. So, its off to get some tyres just to pass the blue slip for rego, across state borders. My search has shown that the wheels (stock 19" with brembo's) are 8.5" in the front and 9" in the back. I am going to get 245/35 19's all round; not sure how the low profile will go, but they are cheaper and I expect will handle better. Just to get past the registering hoo-ha (Time limit for cross border), until I decide what to do for my RIMs. I guess once I sort out my daily, these old rims with new tyres will be up for sale. OH, and the stud was simply a bolt with a spacer, and came off in a fraction of a second when the guy used the power wrench on it. No need to take off the rotors/discs from the hub. When he was done he looked around for the bolt to put it back on, until I scoffed and told him to scrap that!

It appears in the first diagram I found, to be stud with a sleeve. The sale on eBay did not include the sleeve. I have not seen it taken apart, just installed. It clearly does not do anything structural or mechanical. I REALLY hope my wheels have the clearance

And seems that the rotors just may need to come off. I'll find out later today when I have someone coming around to test the mag fitment. There is someone actually selling this useless part on ebay!! And this useless bolt costs more than $40 PLUS there is $10 shipping! $50 for extra weight. hmmmm.... maybe I'll just take them off mine and sell them on eBay myself. PS: I just noticed you can buy 1, 2 OR 3. But if you want 4, there is an extra step.