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Viper_r32

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Everything posted by Viper_r32

  1. revving at low rpm, the blow off valve should be quiet, but it gets louder when it releases at higher revs because its pushing through a larger volume of air and you get the whoosh sound. the flutter sound is herd when the blow off valve is trying to release the air slowly in sections, that's why its called sequential. it dose this so that the pressure of boost to the turbo dos not drop down to rapidly encase you what to put the boot straight down again. the screw just adjusts the tension of the spring, and it makes little difference on how much its turned, the further out the spring is, the less tension it has and the further the screw is in the more tension. you want it to be in enough that spring has some tension to hold the valve, but not to much that it keeps the valve shut. this verys depending on how much boost you run. but generally having it set a little looser than half way will be fine.
  2. i have the same blow off valve on my 32, its HKS old version of there super sequential blow off valve. what kind of info are you looking for?
  3. thanks for the comments guy's, I'm glad you like it hey Reece, did you check out the link to the Bad boys clip i animated. here is the link if anyone else wants to check it out. its my first attempt at animating a character in 3d, done to a sound clip from the movie Bad Boys. it only goes for 7 seconds but some of you might get a kick out of it. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoid=60381617
  4. hey guys, just thought some of you might be interested in checking out the short film i produced and edited called Reset. would be keen to get your thoughts and input! http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoid=60242577 Reset is a short student film that takes place inside the world of a video game. the Main charterer "Viper" is given his orders, but with each failed attempt he must learn from his mistakes in order to complete his mission. Staring: Tom Heath, Glenn Brown and Alison Kelly Directed By: Brad Raward Produced By: Paul Shanovski written by: Brad Raward & Paul Shanovski Music Score By: Superluous Check out Superflous @ www.myspace.com/lightinthedarkdecay The Story and Special Effects The story of RESET is fairly basic, but this was done deliberately, one of the main reasons for creating Reset was that i wanted to create a film that would give me the ability to experiment with 2d animation and show of my skills in PhotoShop. all the special effects in this film were created using still images in Photoshop. Weapons & Props Dude to very strict laws in Australia, it is almost imposable to use any form of replica, Paintball, Airsoft, or look-alike weapon without having a fully licensed armorer on set. due to the extreme cost of hiring an armorer and the simple fact it i would have cost more the the whole budget of the film put together. we decided that it was more practical to shoot the film on private property with a bunch of toy guns, some of which have been modified to look more realistic. Cast and Crew A very BIG thanks goes out to all those involved in the project of putting this film together. there was so much work put in buy so many that was unseen by others. i want to take this opportunity to say a big thank you to Brad Raward, who put so much effort and time into the the re-writing of the script and taking time off work to direct the film. a big thanks Glenn Brown, for all his continuing input and advice, which hang onto with great respect. to Tom Heath, for his awesome job well done, and taking the time to work around his all ready busy schedule. A very special thanks to Alison Kelly, who made herself available at the last minute to jump into the role of the presidents daughter. Justin Bush my close and valued friend, i couldn't have done this with out you help and support. to Steven Shepard, Andy Croft, Aaron Brouwer and Michael Watson. for taking the time to be involved in the project. and doing such an amazing job to Phil and Doc from Superflous, for putting an awesome score together for the film. and doing do so with out even seeing any of the visuals. and still being able to give the feel and atmosphere that was required a big thanks to my dad who worked the costume and props department. this film would not have worked it it went for his hard work and support. Interesting Facts Reset script original called for a 4 week shoot, but due to time constraints and cast and crew availability the film was shot in only 4 days with only minor changes to the script.
  5. if you get done on any time around a public holiday (including up to a week after) that has been advertised as double demerit points the fine will be double the usual ammont. don't complain to much, when i was young and stupid i got a fine a that was allot more than a grand
  6. Happy Easter All! (and take it easy on the chocolate)
  7. LONG LIVE THE HACHI ROKU!!!!!!
  8. don't know if i would use a R35 as my daily, I would be to scared to leave it anyware.
  9. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...mp-t259836.html
  10. cool, my Sister had one of those, although i used to put my ninja turtles in it
  11. hey Roby, nice pic dude! i'll have to get that skid pan video edited for you
  12. hey guys I’m thinking of heading out tonight, haven’t been out in a while. so were dose every one meet these days still at regatta point or the museum or have we moved on some ware else...
  13. thanks dude, Appreciate it
  14. that's one sweet looking 32, have fun running it in and all the best!
  15. Merry Christmas to all! and all the best for the new year!
  16. Hey Guys and Gals firstly let me say a merry Christmas to you all and all the best for the new year. Well, as a few of you are aware I have had a few dramas over the past few years regarding turbo’s and Engines, and I finally decided to get my RB20DET rebuilt. So for all those who are interested here is the whole story from start to finish trying to keep it as short as I can. This all started a few years back when I decided to get my turbo High flowed by GCG and my ECU re-chipped by Nick Danger. Every thing at first went great, Nick had done an awesome job at the tuning and the car was making I nice dose of 210rwkw But then 6 months later my turbo died. after lots testing by both the mechanic (who will remain Nameless) and GCG. GCG clamed the turbo died due to oil contamination. WHAT, oil contamination, how did that happen? I have always been one of those kind of people who is very fussy when it comes to quality and looking after my stuff, keep my cds scratch free, don’t lend my stuff out to mates and always change my Oil every 3 thousand kms with Motal full synthetic, so imagine my reaction when I said OIL CONTAMINATION HOW DID THAT HAPPEN? GCG would not replace the turbo under warranty, but did offer me special consideration and offered me a rebuild at a discounted price. So after going ahead with the rebuild les than a month latter the turbo died again. GCG clamed again in there report that the turbo died due to oil contamination. My mechanic at the time had a massive augment over the phone with GCG saying that there is no way that it could have been oil contamination. He had flushed all the oil lines and tested them for flow, and it all checked out OK. GCG still clamed Oil contamination and there was nothing else I could do but fork out the cash again for another turbo rebuild. This time I decided that something was defiantly wrong so when my newly rebuilt turbo arrived back from GCG I kept it in its box and took my skyline off the road for a while. After quite a few mouths worth of saving and questioning what to do I decided to take the cheep way out. Because I didn’t have any idea what was causing the problem I decided to by a cheep RB20 and swap the old motor out. In a way I was hesitant to do this as my existing motor aside from its turbo issues always ran great, even after 160thousand ks it still had almost full compression and ran like a dream. Even during the original tuning process with the first turbo, Nick was impressed with the tune and response of the engine. But I purchased another engine anyway from an engine importer (who will also remain nameless) and decided to go to a different mechanic. When I purchased the engine there were specific things I asked for, like a guaranty of low ks and a full compression test (this can be done on a bench flow test). Lets just say that the engine that arrived was not what I asked for or what the papers sent with it clamed, you could tell just by looking at it that it had had a really hard life, and if it looks warn on the out side guarantied its warn on the inside. As with most engine and half cut importers if the engine starts, then that’s all there liable for. So there was no way I could send the engine back. (Lesson if you are going to buy an engine for an engine swap, make sure you lay your eyes on it before you fork over the cash) So things went ahead with the swap, and I decided to get the work done by a different mechanic and decided on Skyline performance, having heard great things about them While ripping out the original engine Joe and Phill at Skyline performance noticed a few things, the first was that the sump had a fairly large ding in the bottom of it. Now the funny thing is that I had always known this ding was there, though I never thought anything of it, as it was there when I first bought the car and it had never caused any dramas before. The second was when they inspected the oil lines for the turbo, the hole size was really small. Skyline performance informed me that these should have been drilled out when the turbo was high flowed. I had the Oil lines drilled out, but unknowing weather or not this was the definite cause of the turbo problem and if there was metal or some other contaminant in my original engine. I decided to go ahead dropping in the replacement engine. The work Skyline performance did was great. They swapped it over in a couple of days and my ride was back on the road once more. I kept my original engine and stored it in my shed with the plans of one day giving it a full rebuild. Well that day came a lot sooner than expected! The replacement engine was crap, as I had a felling it would be. The valve seals were obviously warn out and black smoke poured out the back like a giant chimney. I have to admit I felt embraced to drive it. Months when past as I tried to work out what to do, new engine? RB25? RB26? And was it worth spending that kind of money on a car that was almost 20 years old and slowly depreciating in value. After lots of discussion with friends and family I decided to take my original RB20 block in for a rebuild, I didn’t want to spend a truck load of cash so with the advice of skyline performance + a great price I decided on Rebuilding the Engine with the Original Pistons, Rods and Crank. This was the plan Rebuild the original RB20DET with the Original Pistons, Rods and Crank Strip the block and chemical clean everything Hone the bore Re-grind the Crank Full Nissan Gasket kit, including all seals Replace all the bearings with Race Bearings New Piston Rings N1 oil pump + Jun Collar Have the head serviced which included: regrinding the valve surface, regrinding of the cylinder head seats, new valve seals & valve guides, light polish of inlet and exhaust ports & replacement of exhaust manifold studs. When they pulled apart the block the inside was in great condition, the bore only required a very light hone and the Crank only required a very light polish. only a few of the main borings were lightly scored, Now all this wasn’t to surprising as I have always tried to look after my engine, but what was surprising how ever was this. You know the big dint in the sump I mentioned earlier, well there is this oil snorkel pipe that sits in the sump and sucks up the oil to feed it through the engine, and it was squashed against the sump floor where the ding was, blocking the hole. To be honest with how much it was squished in I’m surprised it was able to suck up anything. Between the snorkel being squashed in, the oil line not being drilled out, and the old oil pump looking like it was at the end of its life. I’m not surprised I was having turbo problems. Skyline performance did an amazing job, I was really grateful for there attention to detail, and Quality of workman ship. They spent the time to make sure the job was done properly, and I was happy to wait. They kept me informed on each stage of the build, and allowed me the opportunity to come around and inspect each stage and take photos of what had been done. I needed a new harmonic balancer so I bought a nice brushed aluminum one off Phil for a good Price. There was an interesting time when the Big end bearings arrived and where the wrong size, it took a few attempts to get the right ones but this was because the RB20 Crank actually comes in two sizes and mine had larger journals. But the right ones arrived in the end and the rebuild continued. Once the engine was together I came in to take some photos, my jaw dropped when I saw it. I had asked them if they could Paint the camshaft covers but what I didn’t expect was to have the inlet manifold polished and painted silver, the camgear cover painted metallic Blue, the aircon bracket painted Silver, one of the radiator pipes painted gold, and the crank angle sensor also painted gold. (unfortunately that crank angle sensor turned out to be faulty so it has been replaced and is no longer gold) I would like to say a big thank you to “mccready” for giving me a replacement sensor. Greatly appreciated! When they put the block in I also asked Joe if he had any silicon hose, so for a little extra cash he put some blue hose on the inlet pipes. The engine is running great, I’m running it in with the boost controller off right now and not revving past five grand. Joe instructed me to use a non synthetic turbo oil to let the piston rings bed in for the first thousand ks. So once that is done it will be going in for a dyno tune, new plugs, boost controller retuned and full synthetic oil Here are some pics I hope you enjoyed the read. Before After
  17. weird, sounds like maybe it was a stuck needle. not sure, i know its not unheard off any one else got any ideas?
  18. try that area bellow the blue compliance plate, it should be some were around there, hose should be about the size of the one in the photo running parallel to the strut brace
  19. sometimes this can be a simple a a small hose that has come loose. look for a small rubber hose that generally runs from the back of the inlet manifold in to usually a small black box that sits on the fire wall in the engine bay usually in line with were the boost gauge sits on the dash
  20. well the crank angle sensor was defiantly the problem, but the one i got isn't in very good condition. and would like to buy a better one, dose any one have a spare they would be willing to sell?
  21. thanks guys, skyline performance actually managed to get a crank angle sensor from someone this afternoon and it turns out that was the problem. so a big thanks to those who offered, it's always nice to know there are people out there willing to lend a had. greatly appreciated! i will be putting up a post soon concerning my engine rebuild for those who are interested. lots of pics, and I'll even write a short little story (well not quite so short) of the whole experience, including why i needed the rebuild in the first place. Stay tuned
  22. i know it sounds crazy to use cheaper oil, but it is important, my engine has also just been rebuilt. the reason for this is that for the first couple of days the piston rings need to bed them selves in, this is almost imposable to do on good oil especially if its full synthetic. you need to get the piston rings to wear in, once this is done you can go to a half synthetic for the first 1000ks and after that you should be OK to go a good full synthetic. hope this helps and all the best with the rebuild
  23. hey guy's, I'm having a few dramas at the the moment and was wondering if any one could lend me any of the following parts to do some diagnostics on my engine. it's not cranking over, and Joe and Phil at skyline performance don't have the rb20 parts to rule certain things out. i need for testing a crank angle sensor a igniter pack an rb20 ecu and an air sensor if any one can help me out with any of these it would be greatly appreciated please give me a call on 0406 424 024 thanks
  24. i assume that this would help air flow through the entire rev range, helping to improve response and possibly top end? any idea on who much this type of custom work would cost, and dose it have any advantages over an after market bolt on system.
  25. That’s an idea I hadn’t considered. I will have a look into that, Thanks
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