MarkE

Yes GTST, I understand that. As I been re-reading this thread alot of others, and I'm sure you'd understand I am trying to seperate people's primary observations from second hand information.

Id asked this question before. How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

When you are talking about "stock pistons" and "stock rods" are you guys talking about having the bottom end rebuilt and using NEW stock pistons/rods, or using old ones that have done 150-250,000 KM's?!

GTR valvesprings WONT fit the RB25DE head?! I thought the issue was that you can't use RB26 cams because of the hydraulic v solid xam issue?!

Yeah Jaycar cable is very expensive. Their margins are very high. If you complain and tell them that, and ask them to do a better price, I've found they will. Hornsby and St Leonards stores have always treated me well.

Other than paying ~$500 for Datalogit cable and software, is there a means by which you can hook it up to your laptop? Herm.

I cant believe no one has mentioned anything Porsche. Definately a GT2 and a GT3. One for Targa and one for Porsche cup M3 CSL would be ok as well.

Nice to know Duncan. haha.

Erm. Why do you need a group buy? Go down to Jaycar and buy 8G or 4G power cable and away you go?! Either that, or buy an HKS/NISMO/RICER ground kit and waste your money and prove you're just a consumer whore?

I think you'll find thats incorrect ... Sure you can do the "burn & test" method, like Toshi. That "special eraser" stuff is BS. An EEPROM writer costs about $35 to make from a Jaycar kit. EEPROM's are about $5, and are electronically eraseable, unlike EPROM's which need exposure to UV. You would only use EPROM's over EEPROM's if you were suffering some form of mental illness. Apparently it is also possible to use flash based media, however I am unsure how exactly. Possibly some interface between the EEPROM connectors. When it comes to why the R33 E(E)PROM(?) can only be written once, I have no idea. Best way is to use an emulator, which allows on-the-fly tuning, which for all intents and purposes is not going to be really any different to the PowerFC tuning. DrDrift and various others are using these emulators AFAIK.

Not that I can see. It looks well done. From what I understand there is nothing inherently different about chipping an R33 ECU compared to an R32 ECU, other than that you need to do a little bit of soldering on the R33 ECU, and that the chips suitable for the R33 are write-once only.

Located in Sydney. Herm!

Hi guys, Just wondering how much I should be paying to get some brackets fabricated to suit using the R34 GT-T calipers on my R31 import struts. Everything is removed and ready to go. Several of the larger racing fabricator mobs who shall not be named have sort of scoffed at me a little, and then told me they're too busy and to come back in a month, or quoted some stupidly high number and seem rather uninterested in helping. Perhaps you guys could help. Thanks, Mark

The internals are different because it has had a socket installed to allow EPROMS afaik.

From memory Oosh, you were trying to get EEPROM writers and such to mod your own some while ago. Guessing you gave up? Once you have a daughter board in there, and you goto a tuner, or DIY, you could then either do swap & test, like Toshi/Yoshi(?), or if you have an emulator like Dr Drift and such, dyno it, tune it, then burn. If you can mod it yourself if you have some basic electronical experience or already have a modded R33 ECU seems cost effective. I've got a modded R33 and loom, but an R32 head UGH!

Are these the ones on special at Jaycar?

http://64.233.187.104/search?q=cache:FmHd5...710-21U01&hl=en He seems to think RB25DET as well. Any ideas guys?

http://www.grid.co.jp/en/prod/prod93.htm Right here, this Jap site is selling chips for them. Says for R33 ...

http://www.grid.co.jp/en/prod/prod93.htm It seems this is a chipped R33 ECU, that has had a daughterboard installed, and a reprogrammed R33 chip. This will not be compatible with the sensors on my R32 RB25DE now will it. Hmm. Anyone interested in swapping an R32 ECU and loom for an R33 ECU and loom? The R33 loom would be easier if you are planning on using a PowerFC since the R33 PowerFC is substantially cheaper.

Hi guys, I bought a loom + ECU which was from an R32 but was on an RB25DET. I was told this was an R32 RB20DET ECU and loom, which is what I need for my RB25DE head on my RB30E bottom end, for my RB30DET. I am somewhat worried that it is in fact an R33 RB25DET loom, and ECU, and thus is not chippable, and will not be appropriate for the sensors on the RB25DE head, and the injectors, etc. The serial number is: 23710-21U01 Only hit I could find on that was this guys post who says it is an RB25DET ECU (R33) http://64.233.187.104/search?q=cache:FmHd5...710-21U01&hl=en I have taken some photos: I was originally posting this to ask which one was the consult port, but now Im concerned this isnt an R32 ECU at all!!

Ossh - did you watch whilst he tuned the car? I'd like to hear from someone who actually KNOWS what happens. At this point im trying to workout if this is how you do it: 1. Hookup consult port to notebook 2. Set global injector timing and ignition settings, and as you move through the rev range workout which settings are most appropriate for each area, adjusting for knock etc. 3. Enter this data into the appropriate software to create ignition and fuel maps and create a ROM. 4. Using an EEPROM burner, create a new chip. 5. Plonk into ECU and drive away. Im most interested in how you can use a consult cable and the relevant software in order to establish a tune, as Id like to know if you can ONLY set global settings. This is the area I dont have alot of understanding in. Wondering mostly, if you can essentially use the consult port and the laptop to "emulate" the ecu, so you run your custom maps youve created, to test them, and then later burn them onto chips once youve established they are correct. If this is incorrect, how are the other people who are reprogramming RB20 ECUs doing it?

Has anyone successfully used this with an R32 RB20DET or R32 RB25DE ECU? Can you dump EEPROM's ?

Has anyone successfully used this with an R32 RB20DET or R32 RB25DE ECU? Can you DUMP EEPROM's ?

I have read this thread a few times before, but have gone over it tonight after having done lots more browsing around the place, and I'm up to about page 85. I have a few questions, related to purchases I either need to make or not make, tomorrow. So you get some perspective on where I am coming from I'll give you a brief rundown. I'm a first year Psych/Law uni student, working in retail, and I'm trying to put together something affordable yet relatively quick. A 'freshened' RB30E bottom-end and 'freshed' RB25DE head, running ~250KW@RW. I'm aiming for what SydneyKid got in his original RB30DET build. If you could induldge me in a more detailed explanation of what you did all those years ago, in terms of the work you did to prepare the block and head and which parts were new/second-hand, and which were serviced or just used as-is, that would be OUTSTANDING. Instead of the T04 turbo, maybe something more modern, such as a GT3040? Ideally I'd like it to be able to rev out to 7000RPM, with peak power at ~6250 - is this realistic? 1. Looms / Wiring / ECU - My RB30DET will go into an Aussie R31. - I currently have a RB25DE head, but no loom, and I am unsure about sensors. - RB30E loom ? Useless? - RB30E ECU - I would presume useless? - I have an opportunity to buy an RB25DET loom & ECU, however I understand the RB25DET ECU is not re-programmable - can it be used to run in the car? Can it be used past that at all!? - Does this mean you can still use topfeed injectors like if you had gone RB20? - I will go the PowerFC .. I understand an RB25DET suited one is easier to come by than the R32 model .. ? - With the RB25DET loom, in the R31, will all my electrics function normally? In short ---> Do I buy the RB25DET loom / ECU? 2. Valve Springs - I understand RB25DE valve springs need replacing. - I have been offered GTR valvesprings, which I was keen on until ... - SydneyKid stated he replaces the valvesprings on RB26's as well! Now I'm very confused! I navigated the website you linked us to but it had nothing but a PDF containing info about "soft springs". In short ---> do I buy the RB26/GTR valvesprings (new - set of 24??)? 3. OIL PUMP! (This has been driving me CRAZY) - SK you're saying we should stick to RB20/25/26 oil pumps due to them being designed for higher revs .. - Would a new RB30ET oil pump be a better trade off than a used RB26 or RB25 oil pump? I understand you keep suggesting GTR pumps, but an early one is going to be 15 years old, and a late model GTR pump will need an adapter ... In short ---> Do I buy the new RB30ET oil pump over a second hand GTR? 4. CAMS - There is talk about cams, and Tomei Poncams and such, and RB26 cams (especially from SK). - How would a set of RB26 cams influence the power delivery? With the change in profile would you be looking at peak power moving towards 6000RPM? In short ---> Would a set of RB26 cams be a worthwhile 'on the cheap' addition to the buildup? 5. Turbos / Housings / Boost controllers - Why is everyone talking about getting a bigger exhaust housing so as to stop boost coming on so early and traction issues? - Surely this is the sledgehammer approach? Why not just dial down the boost with a boost controller, and thus not sacrificing response? ---> This is just general knowledge. Although SK seems to have made some side comments re: this, everyone else seems to talk about how "OH THE VL GUYS SAY THIS" and "OH NO THE TRACTION" that. Thanks so much guys! I'm going to get some sleep now that its after 4AM, so I'll be able to work to pay for all this.

I never understood the idea behind blanking out plates. What are you worried about? That because they have your registration they are going to suddenly track you down, ramraid your garage, and steal your car?