GTST R33

Sold $440. Thank you for you interest

$440 plus postage?

open to reasonable offers

I live in Morphett Vale & work in Norwood

Condition: Brand New Manufacture: SplitFire Japan Part No: SF-DIS-001 Details: SplitFire Direct Ignition Coil Pack Set (SF-DIS-001) - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS / GTS25 /GTS-4 / GTS-t & R33 GTR / GTS25 / GTS25-t / GTS-4. SplitFire Super Direct Ignition System was developed to improve power of ignition system adopted in the domestic high power engine. We have created a coil pack that provides a constant and stable voltage which results in a more complete combustion and ultimately improved power/torque. Furthermore our special electrical circuitry improves low voltage engine start-ups. The SplitFire system is not only suitable heavily tuned engines and racing applications but also as a cost effective OE replacement. Applications: Nissan Skyline R32 GTR Nissan Skyline R33 GTR Nissan Skyline R32 GTS Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-4 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25 (Series 1, 08/1993 - 01/1995) Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4 (Series 1, 08/1993 - 01/1995) Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25-t (Series 1, 08/1993 - 01/1995) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 260RS (RB26DETT)

Try rockhampton auto compressors in QLD if you cant find anyone to rebuild and need a new compressor

Most compressors can be rebuilt, but no one wants to rebuild these!! ...has anyone actually tried to get one rebuilt??

I have been told no one will rebuild these...have you had one rebuilt? Where could you get them rebuilt? how much does it cost to rebuild? and would it come with a warranty? im assuming that it wouldnt be much less than a replacement unit?

Im waiting for mine to be delivered, just to make sure everything is perfect before i suggest to this place to everyone else You would be looking about $750+25 delivery which is equivalent to buying 2 crap ones from the wreckers & having them regassed!! the original compressor lasted for over 10years, so another new one should last for the life of the car Im sure they would be able to get one for your car too. They will require all the numbers & possibly photos of the compressor to make sure it matches up.

I have found a place that can supply a brand new zexel compressor to fit r33 sreies 1 they are not cheap, but if you have gone throught the hassle of buying shit ones form the wreckers buy/fit/regass only to find they last several months at best then its worthwhile considering a newbie.

Currently i have someone looking at my HICAS & hope to narrow the problem with more diagnostic checks the power steering pump and hoses/fluid have been checked and im quiet sure its an electrical fault, for some reason the signal from the speed sensor isnt giving the correct signal, the angle sensors have been checked and seem to be in working order, once the light is off i can start the car as many times as i like and the light will stay off & its only after i move the car and then restart then the light comes on. Its becoming very frustrating as i dont know of any experts in this field and im believe the problem could be fixed easily using a process of elimination to find a fault. Im going to clean all the contacts thoroughly to see if a poor contact could be to blame. If anyone has had or fixed this problem or has any input it would be greatly appreaciated

I believe it is an electrical problem to do with the signal for the HICAS after runned a scan i was given the error code above im just not sure what i need to do to fix the problem would completely removing the HICAS system & added a HICAS lock possibly eliminate the problems im having?? i was hoping someone else may have had the same problem and was able to point me in the right direction or advise me of somewhere i can take the car in Adelaide to get this sorted??

This was to do with a topic i posted earlier where my HICAS light came on after after short trips and this caused my steering to become heavy (see HICAS LIGHT +HEAVY STEERING) Ive just run plugged in the standard ECU and run a diagnostic system check ps:diagnostic computer will not communicate with aftermarket ECU The readout from HICAS was - 25 Engine Rev abnormal signal Does anyone know what this means?? Would it be to do with reverse (speed sensor) on speedo/gearbox The error code i chased up on this site for HICAS diagnostic Codes 1993-1999 and came up with: 25 Rear sub sensor input not present would this be the smaller of the two sensors to the right of the HICAS motor i guess the sensor or plug could be faulty?? Anyone had the same problem?? or any suggestions on what i need to do?? Thanks for everyones input!

Ive just run plugged in the standard ECU and run a diagnostic system check ps:diagnostic computer will not communicate with aftermarket ECU The readout from HICAS was - 25 Engine Rev abnormal signal Does anyone know what this means?? Would it be to do with reverse (speed sensor) on speedo/gearbox The error code i chased up on this site for HICAS diagnostic Codes 1993-1999 and came up with: 25 Rear sub sensor input not present would this be the smaller of the two sensors to the right of the HICAS motor i guess the sensor or plug could be faulty?? Anyone had the same problem?? or any suggestions on what i need to do?? Thanks for everyones input!

does anyone know where the vehical speed sensor is located?? Is it part of the speedo?? A diagram would be great

PS: the car is a Series 1 R33, it also has a Wolf 3D aftermarket computer (plug n' play) is the speed sensor on the gearbox, speedo, connected to computer?? sorry if this seems like a silly question

Fluid level is fine, but i think the hoses need replacing soon...could a slightly deteriated hose cause a pressure drop & HICAS light to come on? I would have thought if there was a leak sufficent to casuse a problem the fluid level would be dropping dramatically?

Thanks for the quick reply, i think you might be right about it being the pressure to the power steering system, so the speed sensor could be causing the problem, do you know where the speed sensor is located?? i have tried the HICAS diagnostic & the HICAS light didnt flash, maybe i wasnt quick enough??

I know this topic has been discussed in previous threads, but i cant find the answers i need My car has been fine until a few days ago, after i stopped at the servo i started my car & noticed the HICAS light was on & this caused my steering to be heavy. I tried to restart the car & the light stays on however this is where things get wierd, if i leave the car for a overnight or while im working (approx 8 hrs) i can start the car & the light will stay off and steering will be normal, but if i was to turn the car off & restart the light would go on & steering would be heavy again, it seems the car likes to have a rest before it works properly Will driving the car with heavy the HICAS light on & heavy streering cause any damage? I know a lock bar would probably be the way to go? will this make my steering as heavy as it is with the HICAS light on? Is there a simple way to fix this? at least until i find the time to fit a lock bar? i have already tried cleening the contact on the HICAS but with no sucess... any suggestions??? any input would be greatly appreciated

bumpity bump bump

Over the weekend my air cond. compressor siezed and the belt started smoking so i cut the belt & now i need a new compressor etc. I don't want to go down the second hand path because the compressor will be the same age as mine and the seals might not be very good, besides the cost of flush & regas if it doesn't work and no one will guarantee a second hand unit. So aparantly i will need a new tx valve, a compressor & drier unit the system will need to be flushed & pressure/leak tested & regassed The car is an R33 S1 the tx valve is aparently behind the glove box & it easy enough to get at air compressor is a zexel I've noticed a couple of people have had theirs redone for around $1000 can anyone recommend somewhere in Adelaide that can do this for around $1K??? Any help would be greatly appreciated

A while ago my auto button on my climate control broke & was sitting on a 45 deg angle I didn't worry about it until it happend to the off switch causing the fan to be permanently "on" I was going to buy a second hand one.. but i know the same problem would occur eventually So i looked for a solution, the problem was with the design the flimsy plastic arm that hold the buttons i came up with a simple but effective solution to eliminate the plastic arms altogether I started with a rubber gromit and then cut out the inside of it, leaving a cresent moon shape i cut away enough for the backing light to shine through, then trimmed about a third off the bottom of the gromit this allowed the button to sit in its usual place (make sure the plastic pin on the back of the button lines up with the white pin on the control unit itself) Then simply replace the cover and the buttons will be held firmly in place by the cover itself. The rubber allows the buttons to be pushed firmly without worring about breaking!!! Both buttons are now fixed...the whole thing took about 20mins and cost me nothing

R33 GTST with mild mods (standard turbo, injectors, fuel pump) using 98oct BP ultimate average driving to/from work is about 450km i think it's a 60ltr/tank and around 500km+ for freeway driving i would get max of 350km/60ltr if i drove hard

still 4 sale....