Templim

Hello, I swapped a r34 gtt trans into my s2 r33 gtst and I'm looking into clutch kits to use. I bought a r34 gtr clutch kit before and the flywheel was too big so the trans fork would rub onto the pressure plate like in the pic (we used grease to see if it rubbed when tightening bellhousing). What clutch kit can I buy for the car? The only clutch I find for r34 gtt is the Exedy twin which seems the best for street ability in my 500bhp skyline but it looks sketchy from future motorsports. I see different information whether different clutch kits fit different models but I don't want to mess up and buying a wrong clutch kit because some of these distributers are a PAIN to deal with since they don't answer any of my questions. I'm currently running a spec pull type clutch kit but my tuner says to replace it with a twin disc. It does a grind from a ton from 3rd to 4th at high rpm. I'm not sure if that's why he has said to replace it? Tuner said the clutch needed replacing after dyno'ing the car. Could it be a synchro? I bought the r34 gtt trans new and it has less than 10k km on it. I had a shady tuner and I'm transferring to the big skyline tuner in florida east coast next week. Thanks guys

I don't know what is required. I'd rather just buy the parts since I especially don't know what I'm buying. The turbo comes in on Thursday and I want to have everything bought and arriving around the same time. I already pulled everything off.

Hey guys, I'm curious which lines I buy for a top mounted turbo. I'm seeing a few different kinds and I'm not sure which one to buy. Car is 96 R33 gtst and the turbo is a gt3582. Here are pics of them 1. 2. From #2 there's only 1 line so I'm not sure which other lines to buy since that one already looks different. Or do I buy both? Thank you!

Is that really the answer? I would need a tune if a buy a new ECU right? Is there another way of fixing the car?

No ECU fault codes. I just tested that when I unplug the maf sensor then the car doesn't die anymore put it just keeps reving a 500 then down 500 then back constantly. I guess something with the maf wiring There was the regular oem box filter on then I put a isr intake on there. I tried both but still was having problems and with another maf that I bought

I used a pry bar to check each fuel injector and they were all making a clicking sound the same speed. I used all the same hoses besides the small one that came with the fuel pump to replace the oem one. I changed the fuel filter again an hour ago and the car still dies fast oil in the air filter? There's fuel in the fuel filter and there's no oil in the air filter. The maf sensor wiring looks to be in good shape.

The car before started before but would not exceed 3k rpm. I ordered a walbro 255 and a fuel filter and put those both in and I went on a drive and the car was doing fine for about 2 minutes then it just started dying. Now the car has a rough time starting and if it does start it will die 15 seconds after. If I rev the car at 1.5k then its fine and I can drive (which I haven't been doing, I had to get the car from bottom drive way to inside garage). The car does go above 3k rpm now but there's another problem. These problems happened when I put a air filter on and changed the fuel tank seal. I put the old seal back on and bought another maf sensor and tried the old air filter box but no luck. Seems like the problem is still fuel. could it be the injectors? Thank you

Hello, what is this wire for and where does it attach to? It's a pink/red with a blue line and then a ground wire coming from trunk lid. Thank you!

My R33 gtst passenger window doesn't go down smooth and I'm curious if you guys know what may fix it. I tried silicone lube spray, some epoxy on the window actuator to hold the window to the acuator (maybe I didn't use enough?). I also tried tighening the bolts for the actuator. Do you guys have any ideas to fix it? Thank you! 20221119_094928.mp4

I have these. I saw on fitment industries and people are running the same specs though. https://www.fitmentindustries.com/buy-wheel-offset/476-895-6530BK/enkei-kojin-18x95-30?vehicle_type=Car&year=1996&make=Nissan&model=Skyline&trim=GTS25T&suspension=Stock

The wheel I bought was hitting the steering knuckle/top part of the suspension. I put spacers on and it's fine now.

You need to be a mod.

The car was fine before I swapped my trans. There may been some issues that I made with the power steering pump. I'll check what you guys have said.

It's on the road and when I pull out of my driveway. If I just turn the steering wheel all the way left and right when the car is parked it doesn't make the sound.

Do you know why when I turn the wheel all the way left or right no matter the speed for a turn I hear a grinding sound? It sounds like the driveshaft, I'm not sure though. I just did a power steering flush and that didn't fix it. There are only 3 of the 4 bolts on it. Maybe that's why? 🤷🏻‍♂️ It only makes the noise right when I get to the end of steering for both right and left sides.