Templim
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Posts posted by Templim
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1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:
Look at what fittings are required and make your own. A lot neater and can sleeve them or be like @Dose Pipe Sutututu and be baller with hardlines
https://aeroflowperformance.com/
httphttps://www.earls.com.au/
s://speedflow.com.au/I don't know what is required. I'd rather just buy the parts since I especially don't know what I'm buying. The turbo comes in on Thursday and I want to have everything bought and arriving around the same time. I already pulled everything off.
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Hey guys, I'm curious which lines I buy for a top mounted turbo. I'm seeing a few different kinds and I'm not sure which one to buy. Car is 96 R33 gtst and the turbo is a gt3582. Here are pics of them
1.
2.
From #2 there's only 1 line so I'm not sure which other lines to buy since that one already looks different. Or do I buy both?
Thank you!
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1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Only one thing left to do now. Get a proper ECU and bin the MAF sensor.
Is that really the answer? I would need a tune if a buy a new ECU right? Is there another way of fixing the car?
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No ECU fault codes. I just tested that when I unplug the maf sensor then the car doesn't die anymore put it just keeps reving a 500 then down 500 then back constantly.
I guess something with the maf wiring
There was the regular oem box filter on then I put a isr intake on there. I tried both but still was having problems and with another maf that I bought
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I used a pry bar to check each fuel injector and they were all making a clicking sound the same speed.
13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:Did you use non submersible fuel hose inside the tank?
I used all the same hoses besides the small one that came with the fuel pump to replace the oem one.
15 hours ago, Duncan said:Since we are all wild guessing, I think there is some crap in your fuel tank. Try changing the fuel filter again and see if it improves for a while
I changed the fuel filter again an hour ago and the car still dies fast
22 hours ago, Ben C34 said:Fuel tank seal can't do anything like you describe, it's odd you changed it back.
How much oil is on the air filter?
How dodgy is the maf sensor wiring?
oil in the air filter? There's fuel in the fuel filter and there's no oil in the air filter. The maf sensor wiring looks to be in good shape.
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The car before started before but would not exceed 3k rpm. I ordered a walbro 255 and a fuel filter and put those both in and I went on a drive and the car was doing fine for about 2 minutes then it just started dying. Now the car has a rough time starting and if it does start it will die 15 seconds after. If I rev the car at 1.5k then its fine and I can drive (which I haven't been doing, I had to get the car from bottom drive way to inside garage). The car does go above 3k rpm now but there's another problem. These problems happened when I put a air filter on and changed the fuel tank seal. I put the old seal back on and bought another maf sensor and tried the old air filter box but no luck.
Seems like the problem is still fuel. could it be the injectors?
Thank you
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Hello, what is this wire for and where does it attach to? It's a pink/red with a blue line and then a ground wire coming from trunk lid.
Thank you!
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My R33 gtst passenger window doesn't go down smooth and I'm curious if you guys know what may fix it. I tried silicone lube spray, some epoxy on the window actuator to hold the window to the acuator (maybe I didn't use enough?). I also tried tighening the bolts for the actuator.
Do you guys have any ideas to fix it? Thank you!
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On 10/18/2022 at 3:38 PM, Duncan said:
tridentt150v wins the guessing game
Right sized wheels might be a better solution than spacers, but at least you've got it sorted....
I have these. I saw on fitment industries and people are running the same specs though.
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On 10/12/2022 at 12:44 AM, elsk said:
Most likely power steering pump
On 10/10/2022 at 10:54 PM, GTSBoy said:Which could point to thrashed radius rod bushes, or thrashed lower arm inner bushes, or maybe thrashed balljoint/kingpin bearings (less likely) or a bent/shifted subframe (drift damage).
On 10/10/2022 at 10:37 PM, tridentt150v said:Sounds more like your tyres are rubbing on the inner guards?
The wheel I bought was hitting the steering knuckle/top part of the suspension. I put spacers on and it's fine now.
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2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Looks like it might have been set up to run a gearbox oil cooler. Which is probably not a good sign, as it probably had a hard life. At least the owner cared enough to do it, I suppose.
You need to be a mod.
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29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Which could point to thrashed radius rod bushes, or thrashed lower arm inner bushes, or maybe thrashed balljoint/kingpin bearings (less likely) or a bent/shifted subframe (drift damage).
46 minutes ago, tridentt150v said:Sounds more like your tyres are rubbing on the inner guards?
The car was fine before I swapped my trans. There may been some issues that I made with the power steering pump. I'll check what you guys have said.
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17 minutes ago, tridentt150v said:
is this 'on the road' or on blocks in the garage?
It's on the road and when I pull out of my driveway. If I just turn the steering wheel all the way left and right when the car is parked it doesn't make the sound.
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Do you know why when I turn the wheel all the way left or right no matter the speed for a turn I hear a grinding sound? It sounds like the driveshaft, I'm not sure though. I just did a power steering flush and that didn't fix it. There are only 3 of the 4 bolts on it. Maybe that's why? 🤷🏻♂️
It only makes the noise right when I get to the end of steering for both right and left sides.
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18 minutes ago, dyl33 said:
Whaaaat. I guess I didn't get the notification for that one.
Thank you!
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So this first pic the plug is by the fuse box and I'm not sure what it is or what it connects to. What colors is the plug that connects to it?
This second plug comes up from the left of the engine. It looks like its coming out near the starter? Not sure if it's the speedo switch. It's yellow/red and gray/red
Thank you!
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3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
I recommend using the EPC to answer these questions in the future:
https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/hr33/3927-rb20e/body/650/65100/
https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/body/650/65100/
I edited both of these messages. I figured out what I'm doing.
It looks like A GTS series 2 hood is the same as GTS-T series 2 👍
Thank you so much man.
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Does a R33 Gts series 2 hood fit gtst series 2?
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Hello, I converted my s2 r33 from auto to a r34 gtt manual trans.
I'm curious if you guys know what colors the wiring is for the speedo sensor from a r33 auto.
Thank you!
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I'm curious where this connector is plugged into. It's to the right of the fuse box and above the washer fluid reservoir. The car is a r33 spec 2 type m
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I found the problem. I forgot to connect a hose
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Maybe the gas tank is empty? Whenever the car was able to start I swear I could smell fuel coming from the car like a leak.
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The car makes the noise in the video while I hold it in the on position. If I stop holding it in the on position it will just turn off. I converted it to manual and I need to bleed the brakes I tried to force it into 1st gear to get up a hill which didn't work at all. After that I haven't tried to turn the car on in a week.
Clutch kits for r33 gtst with r34 gtt trans and trans problem?
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Posted · Edited by Templim
Hello, I swapped a r34 gtt trans into my s2 r33 gtst and I'm looking into clutch kits to use. I bought a r34 gtr clutch kit before and the flywheel was too big so the trans fork would rub onto the pressure plate like in the pic (we used grease to see if it rubbed when tightening bellhousing).
What clutch kit can I buy for the car? The only clutch I find for r34 gtt is the Exedy twin which seems the best for street ability in my 500bhp skyline but it looks sketchy from future motorsports.
I see different information whether different clutch kits fit different models but I don't want to mess up and buying a wrong clutch kit because some of these distributers are a PAIN to deal with since they don't answer any of my questions.
I'm currently running a spec pull type clutch kit but my tuner says to replace it with a twin disc. It does a grind from a ton from 3rd to 4th at high rpm. I'm not sure if that's why he has said to replace it? Tuner said the clutch needed replacing after dyno'ing the car. Could it be a synchro? I bought the r34 gtt trans new and it has less than 10k km on it. I had a shady tuner and I'm transferring to the big skyline tuner in florida east coast next week.
Thanks guys