timmy94

Just curious about the fuel pump people uses? Is there any worse and better ones? I got a Deatschwerk in my Silvia, which worked alright. Im looking at Walbro F90000267 450 LPH for my R32 GT-R. I guy had a WALBRO from a GTR thats been scrapped. I think its a 450lhp, i could get it for free almost since it just sitting there for no use anymore, but im not sure about to buy used fuel pumps. It works and everything, but mabye its risky to put that my car?

well, sorry. Maybe you are right. No my friend bought it for 10k 5 years ago. Rebuilt engine and turbos and other stuff for 10k and then i bought it after that for 10k or okey, maybe more like 11k to be exactly.. Yeah, maybe i am a crying baby..

HAHA, no actually did not. Well, the car wasnt perfect condition but not whistlindiesel condition. Little bit of rust on a few spots and not the best paint but the rust will be fixed and the paint is going for re-paint anyway. I

How long ago was that? Which car do you dive?

I paid 10k for it. It been sitting in my friends garage since a few years back. Actually right before the price increase in 2018? I helped him to fix the engine and so, but he never drove it. So i bought it of him for 10k where the engine is new built, turbos are new, injectors been serviced. Not perfect body condition has some rust, but was planning to fix that anyway.

Well, it seems like the auction dealers in japan did not sell any cars at all, at the auctions.. cause people suddenly dont pay for them. So they have a bunch of cars now they cant get rid off.

and the prices on JDM and even GT-R are dropping back to where they were? I bought a R32 GT-R with new engine and turbos for $10k for 3 months ago or something. A car that i bought now because i got the opportunity from a friend and i thought if i dont buy this one, i will never ever afford a GT-R probably. Now im sitting here like a f**king dick head, watching these youtbers talking about jdm market are dropping again and how people think they are overpriced. I mean old muscle cars etc are daaamn alot more expensive. I dont understand why supra, GTR ans sklvias would drop lile this. Well, i did a f**king mistake

"ran out"? 80,90,100% duty cycle?

What is the cause to the lower voltage in these fuelpumps?

I actually dont know what happend, it did sound wierd when the tuner talked to me. They used a few liters of oil also and i asked why. They claimed they tried to find the oil leak afterward which sounds wierd cause the whole filter houseing and everything had came off so it was a big hole in the block where the filter sits. Sounds wierd that they had to fill the engine with oil to find that "small" leak..

Sounds fair. I dont now if the this Link G4 i found is working in a condition or not, but since i could get it so cheap i guess it could be worth a try. I think i will have 12month warranty anyway. I talked to a tuner again. -> " With these turbos you will use the OEM wastegate actuators on these turbos so the boost pressure will not change UNTIL we do the ECU tuning through an EBCS"These turbos are great for stock engines and do NOT need to be at 1.5 bar boost. Once you have the support ECU,sensor,injectors/pump the bone stock RB26 is very happy/making great power yet conservatively/safe at 15-18psi (1.1-1.3 bar) with pump gas. (I've tuned a lot of RB's over the years and the stock engines are still quite strong and ready for boost with the supporting mods/tuning/decent fuel) ". So seems to be an option there also. I simply have to find the best solution here for me, i will see what i can do with these -5 turbos. Otherwise, i will sell them and maybe get some -7 turbos if they arent too expensive. Thanks for sharing some thoughts and tips.

I did not want to tune this GT-R car because i do not trust tuners here haha. First time i tuned my S15 SR20 i had issues ever since with warnings with fuel ( Fuel cut almost everytime i put pedal to metal, they couldnt find a solution and i ended up spending alot of money on parts they told me to change like pumps, injectors, filters etc etc, but did not find the problem until i found it myself). 2ND time, for some reason they did not notice that the oil pressure was lost in time and the engine ran long enough to destroy everything. This ECU had saftey features/options/mechanism (idk, but i belive you understand) that could stop the engine as soon as oil level dropped or something else but for some reason they did not use any of those features? i dont know if that saftey thing could help in that situation but i got a bit dissapointed even though i was my fault, i should have checked the brackets for cracks. (The oilpressre was lost due to oilfilter became a bit loose from its bracket cause the bracket had a crack in it.) well, thats was my goal to run everything standard for now until i have a better garage and when i know the car runs fine. BUT, since im in the situation i am right now, im trying to do the right thing. I could run the HKS ones and still get a tuneable ecu to make sure that everything is working fine since i clearly dont know whats been done to this engine so i do not run with a wierd and dangerous settings. Thanks

Okey. Its the headache i want to skip on this build. Just want as simple build as possible so i can drive around the street buy some ice cream, do some roadtrips and just enjoy the car as it is. A bit more power wouldnt hurt but nothing more too fancy shit here, since the Silvia S15 went a bit crazy. I will try to read through the forum as much as possible.

I think i was clear about -5, but idk.. Hks couldnt identify them by the plate.. still figuring out which ones it is. It has a little play in shaft but idk whats accepteble cause all turbos seems to have a bit of play when there is no oil pressure. There is no chafings in the housings.. Ok. So its either stick with these turbo run 300kw, new injectors and pump + link ecu Or Send the hks ones for service check and put link ecu on the car and dont bother of anything else. I guess the link ecu is a good option either way

Yes i know its replacement ecu but ive heard that some verisions of those were not good at all. Was just curious what you thought about them Thanks 😄 The g4 card.

Okok. Well there is some kind of 3" or 3.5" exhaust with 5" blitz muffler on. Intercooler is standard on mine, as well as bov etc.. How does that power fc work? And trigger upgrade, isnt that necessary? I talked to the guy with the G4 Link, i could get it for 450 instead of 500, seems fair for that ecu?

Okey, thank you. Well then i will take a closer look at this ecu. $500 is pretty cheap compared to a new one.

Okey. so how far can you go on these Rb26 engines safetly? Stock head and bottom. ( There are new rods, pisonts ( eagle and cp), crankcollar etc but do not want to push anything. I talked to a tuner who told me that these turbos Gt2860-R are great for street use and have fast spool on lower boost. I guess i could run these anyway and go for a bit more power then. I have a link G4 ecu from a R33 GT-R, this one should work? I talked to link but they couldnt confirm it, so i checked the pinouts with the link g4 software which only have a general pinout label for GT-Rs so i belive they are the same for r32 and r33..

I will try to change them to a smaller refurbished or new ones from a local store or something. It's a bit stupid to run this big turbos when im only want to run factory power.

well, i guess if i run with these turbos on 1.5bar i will have other problems.. like the fuel system as someone mentioned.

I dont know why the HKS turbos were changed. I guess he changed them since he just wanted to make sure everything was new and that there would be no more issues like turbo fail.

They guy who bought the car in first place had issues with the engine. The seller had told him that there were no oil restrictors to the turbos and they had too much oil and that caused oil leak and other issues. But we found out that the engine was bad. The engine had alot of crankcase vent. I helped this guy to do some leakdown tests etc and we found out that the compression were bad. So i helped him to get the engine out and we saw that the engine was bad. Bought new bearings, pistons, crankcollar, rods etc and got the engine completly rebuild and also he bought these 2 new turbos (Gt2860-5). After this the car was just sitting for a few years until now when i bought it from him. I dont know if the HKS turbos are bad or not. They probably had to much oil cause there were no oil restrictor as recommended but they were running on low boost until we found out that the engine was bad. There are not much play in them but i dont know what the limit are for these. Maybe some cleaning would be enough. I could send them to someone so they could check them for me. But these turbos should work good on standard injectors, fuel pump etc? I will try to fix an aftermarket ecu.

So i guess i have to ask now. What do you recommend? Sell these turbos and put the old ones gt25 back? Since i dont have an ecu now and i will send the r33 ecu back i guess i will get an older version of LINK G4 or something

Yeah, i confirmed its -5. So running standard boost and standard power with stock injectors and pump on these wont be an option? F##k me I have the 2 old one still here. 2 hks turbos i belive are gt25, cant find anything about them and the identification label are hard to read. Maybe sell the -5 new turbos and send these ones in for rebuild and fit them instead?

Garrett 836026-5005S, GT2860R Turbo. Rated for 250-360hk, but i will double check this. aftermarket ecu will be the way to go anyway, it feels like there is to many gray zones here