persaudkiefer

Hi guys! Just wanted to give an update. The issue was the ECU. I put a new ECU in and the issue is fixed!

Hi guys…I narrowed the issue down to the ECU. I popped in an RB25 ECU and the EGT light powers on immediately, and the car cranks, catches for one second then shuts off. I sent my ECU to get rebuilt, costed $595 and leaking capacitors were found. Got the ECU back and it powers up immediately, but the car will not start with this ECU. Does anyone have an ECU for sale?

@GTSBoy @Duncan Swapped in a brand new Optima Red Top Battery, no change in any results. Swapped the Green ECCS Relays with a Known Good Relay (Fuel Pump Relay) and no changes. I noticed that as I crank, the red light on the ECU disappears. Normal?

Thanks so much @GTSBoy - Can you walk me through how to properly test the 4 pin relay?

@Duncan I will check the relays. Also, here is the screenshot from datascan...anything look off?

Hi @Duncan 1. Swapped Relays - No change. 2. I'm able to probe both relays and can hear them click open and close. 3. The car side of the relays? What do you mean by this? 4. I will look for a specialist. @GTSBoy @Duncan - I connected Nissan Data Scan I and saw a code for a knock sensor circuit (Image Attached). Could this be the issue?

@GTSBoy- I'm not very well versed with electrical, but I'm sure I can figure it out. Before we head to the wiring diagram, is there anything I can check with the Consult Cable and Nissan Data Scan I?

@Duncan @GTSBoy Hey guys! Finally back from New York. Went to start the car, and no matter what I do the car will not start. I noticed that I have to wait the normal 2 minutes for the ECU to light up, but the ECU light goes away once I start cranking. Is this normal? Consult Cable is here, and I purchased Nissan Data Scan I....looking forward to hearing the next steps!

Hey guys! Don't mean to not reply. Had a family emergency pop up, and in New York until the end of the month. Consult cable should be in by then, and we can keep on going! Chat soon!!

@Duncan- Well, I see the 25A fuse in the picture. I must have missed it. Fuse is good...do I wait wait for the Consult cable to come in? Do you know how I can test the relays? I'm usually accustomed to 5 Pin relays...

@Duncan - Just ordered the Consult to PC cable, and NissanDataScanI ECU Pin 16 for the ECCS Relay is an Orange wire. I do see that each of the green relays have Orange wires going to them. Everything is stock, and I believe that I'm the first person behind these panels. I see 2 Green 4 Pin Relays and 1 Blue 2 Pin relay. I'm going to attach a picture here to see if you can point it out. I tried looking for a fusible link in the engine bay box, but I don't see one. Uploaded a picture of the box so you can confirm. Finding this fuse may be my issue here.

@GTSBoy - Do you mind sending me a picture of where the ECCS Relay is and what it looks like? As I told Duncan, I never heard a relay click when I grounded the orange wire for the ECCS relay, so this may be it. Also, I do not think the car has an alarm system installed. All under the dash is OEM.

@DuncanAre you able to send me a link to the Nissan Data Scan that I need? I can scan the car and report back. The power at the ECU via my multimeter shows the power anywhere from .304 mV to 11.84V. It moves up and down very fast. When I put my test light on the wire, the bulb in my probe doesn't even light up. I know the ECU needs 7V to power on. When I said I grounded the ECCS Relay. I simply stripped the orange wire on Pin 16, and used a alligator clip to ground the bare copper to the chassis. Is this the right way to ground the ECCS relay? I did not hear any relays click. Also - do you have a picture of the ECCS relay? Near the ECU I see two green relays, and 1 blue 2 pin relay. I think this is an ECCS issue as well. I just don't know how to pinpoint it. I don't believe that the car has an alarm system installed. Everything under the dash is OEM, never been tampered with.

Hi Guys! I've been chasing this issue on my R32 GTST for about 1 year now, and wanted to call in the help of the professionals! This is my first time making a post on a forum, so forgive me for lack of information; etc. If more information is needed, please let me know and I'll supply! Background information Purchased a R32 GTST from Japan in 2020. Had it shipped over here to Orlando, FL and immediately fell in love. The car is Grade 4/5 and I knew I wanted to keep it forever. I'm very meticulous on the car and it's treated very great. The car is 100% Stock. The only thing that makes the car aftermarket is the head unit. in 2021, I noticed an issue starting the car. In order to start the car, I'd have to turn on the ignition and wait for the "Exhaust Temp Light" to turn on. If I didn't wait for this light to turn on, the car would crank and crank but never start. Once the Exhaust Temp Light turns on, I would hear the fuel pump and that would be my key to start the car. If the exhaust temp light flashed twice, the fuel pump kicked on and off twice to the tune of the exhaust temp light flash. I then wired the fuel pump direct to the battery with a relay in between thinking the old fuel pump wiring could be the issue. This made no difference. The fuel pump would be on, but the car still would not start until the exhaust temp light turned on. Keep in mind also, the car would sometimes start in limp code with the exhaust light flashing "Code 55 (No Error). If it started in limp mode, it would take a few key cycles of starting the car off and on to clear the limp mode. So then I went to the ECU. I checked direct power and ground (Pins 58 & 10) and I can confirm power and ground. However, I noticed on pins 45 (Ignition Switch), 49 (Control Unit Power Supply) and 59 (Control Unit Power Supply) the voltage is all over the place. I did find a blown 10A Engine Control Fuse under the steering wheel, but I replaced it with no change. Another thing I did was run a temporary ground to Pin 16 (ECCS Relay) and noticed no change. I also cleaned the ground on the battery terminal, frame rail (right below battery terminal) and the two M6 bolt grounds next to the coolant temp sensor. *Notes* -Exhaust Temp Sensor has been disconnected from under the passenger seat -When the car is warm I can start up with no issues usually. Photos of my car uploaded, along with a video of the issue. Video is also on google drive, link below. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-bx1LPp3EYY1WiUfQtuvFwwcxAkVUdFM?usp=sharing Thank you all in advance for any help you can offer! IMG_4725.MOV