YBSLO4

So 'mort' you think my O2 sensor could be shyte? That'd explain the dodgy reading on my autometer air/fuel gauge aswell... very unstable reading on that... cos i get around 350-360 a tank and that was before the new turbo, it seems to use slightly less now aswell weirdly? Not sure, but yeah.

P.s. they do run vrey rich untuned... the fuel bill is rediculous

Thnx heaps dude, that is how i got it running at the moment, i have the hose running from actuator to the comp housing and the boost controller t-pieces out of that line, so i might just remove it and run it at 13psi i think. Only thing is it runs a lot smoother with the boost controller than without, doesn't seem to be jerky boost so i might leave it on for that reason.

K, i just fitte dmy new T3/4 turbo to my R33, and i must say it was extremely impressive. However it seems to be that no matter what i am running aorund the 13psi mark... is that because it has a 13psi actuator spring maybe? Cos i have a turbosmart boost controller and it still seems to run that same boost level no matter what. The thing that is different on this turbo to the stock R33 one is that the line from the wastegate actuator connects onto the compressor housing and the boost controller t-pieces out of this, with the stock turbo the wastegate actuator line runs to the intake piping via the standard boost controller. Is it becuase i am by-passing the factory boost controller that it is no longer limited regardless of the turbosmart bc i have? Cos i really want to turn it down a notch to around 10psi if i can but not sure how to run it back through the stock bc. Also it seems that i have rediculous flutter lol it is very loud and goes for ages, i'm talken like 15 secs if i hold it there under load when i back off. Is this okay? It seems to be the BOV aswell fluttering and doesn't really sound like its all compressor surge. What could it be causing this flutter ot be so big and will it cause damage? Any help will be great.

Or 'CAL000' 'IH8-NA' 'FLYNLO' 'GTR4ME' 'GTR8TD' 'OMYGTR' ????

"that y i use a DEFI for boost guage and HKS for controler...rather then Autometer and turbosmart....." I take that your bagging my sh1t... sorry for not wasting my money on brands... Makes it easier when ya just buy a new turbo with a controlled boost wastegate actuator... don't need a boost controller.

Where bouts are you exactly? COs i will be heading out towards the western suburbs i think tomorrow so if your out that way i can maybe detour.

I live in croydon dude, near ringwood if ya familiar with the area. Um i am free tomorrow all day but in the afternoon i gotta go pick up my new turbo But as for price i rally can't go any cheaper dude, as its $500 bucks worth of BOV and mount i'm selling for $300 its a week old not to mention, have boxes and all for it so. I'd really like to get a little bit back cos i owe $400 for this other bloddy thing Tell ya what if this GReddy one aint good i'm gunna be spewin hardcore lol.

No probs, lookn to get rid of it this week, so if ya keen i will sell it cos no good to me havin two BOV's liein round

Nuthing man i ordered it few weeks ago on a mates credit card and forgot about it now i'm stuck with payin for it i told him to order it for me and he did but i cbf waiting for it to get here so i bought another one thinking i could tell him the next day to forget about it but he had already done it, so now i gotta get rid of this one.

Well basically if your running anything more than stock boost and you have it set about half way it is freaken loud ha ha to put it bluntly... and basically the more you turn it in it will still go off however just doesn't make no where near the noise and has more of a crazy flutter to it. Awesome BOV i have it now about 5 twists out which is fairly soft and it is loud but not really loud, it has more of the intercooler flutter which i like more anyway, but you can screw it right out to say 12 twists and it is soft as and will make good noise. Its a great bov, probably the best i have come across by far.

Um you can put it at either as it will work the same at both. Having it nearer the throttle body will make it respond a bit quicker on back off only because of its near ness to the shut off point. I prefer tho to run it a little further away on teh cooler piping like you had made, gives a better sound i reckon. Currently i have mine on the stock mount only because i bought the exspensive turbosmart mount for it to make for a neat fitment but it really doesn't matter.

Yeah twist the top on it by hand and its quietened... twist it other way and its loud... easy and takes about 2 seconds, other BOV's require an alen key and small spanner to adjust spring tension, thats the beuty of this BOV and all turbosmart BOV's.

Hey peoples, I have a Turbosmart Type 3 supersonic BOV i bought last week with th egenuine turbosmart mount for an R33, but am going to get rid of it to allow for the new Greddy one on its way from japan. BOV alone i paid $398 for it and $99 for the mount. So i'd say $300 is fair for both, being it has been on my car for 6 days lol. It sounds awesome i must add, can be very loud depending on boost levels and is so easy to adjust via the turn of a wrist. Would prefer to sell to melbournians if possible.

RB25DET's have Nissan written on the turbo, the silvia's/180's have Garett on them as they are a different turbo.

For a decent job your looking around 4 grand for the spray job unles syou have a contact who can do it cheaper for ya, and ya kit fitted will cost about 1700. Obviously if ya do it at the same time you save on fitting and painting costs but sitll not cheap no matter which way ya go.

Um not sure bout the auto factor, but i think a Unichip is about $1200 fitted and tuned. The difference is that you have much much more tuning capabilities on a Unichip compared to that of an SAFC/II. But definately worth the extra cash. Works out aroun d$900 toi have an SAFC fitted and tuned PROPERLY by a reputable tuner that knows how to tune one correctly. You have to remember that an SAFC is only a air/fuel adjuster, and does not allow full control whereas after market ECU's do.

Nothing wrong with normal batteries peoples, just sometimes, aprticularly with decent sound systems you need a good power source, and that only comes from a decent battery and is the reason i got mine. but i had heaps of problems with my standard battery anyway, would die after a few days of not driving it simply cos the alarm was armed so i had enough and got a newy, but went the better more exspensive battery for stereo cos i needed it.

Spose if yours farkd up then you copped bad service aswell, it wouldn't have gone down well eh... ah well i am happy with mine so far, its been in the car for about 3-4 months so i guess i'll know soon if it does the same thing, havn't had any problems yet, but i would have a liked to get an Optima battery but couldn't get one when i needed it. Ah well.

Hey peoples, I will be fitting my new turbo this weekend its a T3/4 hybrid. I have a large bar and plate front mount, full exhaust, filter etc and will be planning to run 14-15psi tuned on a Unichip... is it fair to believe aorund 220-230rwkw from this? I have looked around and just after speaking to a mate from Unichip (owners son lol) he has said i will pick up around 20-25kw form the unichip alone from passed experience with skylines and the mod's i currnetly have, which basically works out on 10psi i should be producing around the 185rwkw mark he reckons. Now with new turbo and more boost and tuned he believes 220-230rwkw is quite achieveable... doe sthis sound right? Cos i don't want to over expect stuff because then if i don't reach it i will be dissapointed.

I got a big odessey battery. Mainly got it for the stereo as they have alot more charge and ar more consistant. It is sooooooooooo noticeble as soon as oyu install it how quick the car kicks over on start up is incredicble compared to the standard battery. I am very impressed with mine, but price is not too good, i paid around the $400 mark for it.

Better, they are more tunable. The e-management is restricted like all piggy back computers in that it is focused around air and fuel control, whereas the Unichip allows control of timing and other stuff aswell. Basically it allows you to do similar stuff to that of a Power FC just without the hand controller. Best bit is Unichip and APS is my mates dad's business

What grille do you have? Is it the horizontal line one, or the sorta GTR style one? Cos if its not the line one i'm keen.

Dude bit exspensive for it tho ey? Its like $200 from memory (correct me if i'm wrong) but for that i seems a little pricey considering you can set up a missile switch on a bleed vale for like 20 bucks to have ya high n low settings in cabin ( i know it aint ebc but ya get the drift lol). Jus seems a bit of a waste when ya could spend that money on somethin else.

Piping definately is crucial to the overall flow characteristics of a cooler system. Designing the piping with minimal direction changes and shortest distance will ensure less lag and better flow.