YBSLO4

I had the first SAFC-II into aus from takakaira, a week before their actual realease in japan. It was a pre-release deal i got from them in which they had 30 to sell before the date of release, and mine worked out $550 and took me about 4 days to recieve. Then i sold it ... but with the new turbo coming on tuesday i have a Unichip on its way instead

Yerps for sure, forgot it was a backyard job, sorry dude. Just heard from a lot of experienced dude's that the dye test is very accurate., but spose its hard without the proper tools necessary.

I'm with INASNT on this one dude, i've had Blitz DD, HKS SSQ and now Turbosmart Type 3 since last week (by the way there is no type 3 V-port, its a type-2 ) and with a hotwire air flow meter and a computer programed to run a plumback BOV you will always have problems. The engine is expecting that air that is being realeased to go back into the intake and be re-used and so it has already calculated the fuel for when it gets there only to find it wont get there... Hence the backfires and the stalling.

Engineers when finding leaks use to block one end, put powder round any joins, chuck some red food dye on the other end and fit a screw on cap with a compressor plug to it, then turn the compressor on, filling it with around 20psi, if theres any leaks the powder goes red.

K&N filters have some of the best filters and technology world wide. People understimate them alot. You have to remember that when using a K&N air filter on skylines they are an oiled filter, therefor you must clean the air flow meter every say 5,000km to stop the build up of oil which sucks through the filter, clogging up the air flow meter and reducing performance/idle/fuel economy etc. They are usually popular on skylines however for their notorious intake roar!! Mine howls

You guys are forgetting that pressur edrop is across the core and not the whole area from the turbo outlet to the manifold. The pressure drop is critical across the core without a doubt and they are definately good specs, but you have to remember tha tpiping plays an enormous role also in pressure drop and turbo lag. I'd say far more important that than the cooler itself. It is easy to find a good flowing cooler nowdays with so many manufcaturers both in aus and overseas that th eonly real factor is how much you want to spend. BUT it is very hard to find someone who actually knows about airflow to build custom piping that actually flows and has good pressure drop characteristics. The guys at ARE are very switched on when it comes to air-flow and pressure drop regarding intercooler systems. Basically a bar and plate cooler will cool the intake temperature more than a tube and fin when you compare the size of the core, but generally has a higher pressure drop than a tube and fin core. However if you have the room and can fit a large tube and fin intercooler then you are better off only because it will cool basically as well as a bar and plate core will but at a less pressure drop. But taking it into perspective of everything, why have an intercooler that is say 700*350 when a 450*250 bar and plate core will give a lower intake temperature? As for the size of cores to the amount of power they are capable of flowing, you cannot put a figure on a specific size. Each core design and manufacturers have different flow rates and pressure drops etc so its hard to say what power rating a core will have. Just make sure when you buy one you get a good quality core with nice flowing end tanks, but don't forget the piping must be as good as the cooler or it wont work to its full potential.

They are the one's you alwasy hear on the drift cars on vid's from japan, like hard tuned imports. They have that weird almost cross between Blitz and HKS SSQ sound.

Damn, sorry to hear... nuthin worse than damage to the car eh

Nuthing like hte feeling of riding in a GTR Vspec... Launch it at high rev's and grips like hot sh&t to a blanket, then once 2nd is dropped and a bit of traction is reached youc an feel it start to push power ot the back, then you hit a corner hard and a little drift is felt, only a splite second later the thing grips and feels like its on rails again so much fun. Nuthin beats hte variable torque split of the Vspecs either, if anyone every gets a chance to be thrashed around in one take it!! For a car to come out stock form the factory with that sorta performance its amazing and is no wonder why they were banned from racing in australia.

ha ha

I installed it all, but my mate has the same boost controller its just the gated single stage controller with in cabin switch, and i copied his exactly, i knew how to do it anyway but i jsut copied his and it his works fine however mine wont...? Not sure what the deal is, and he even watched his being fitted so when it came to mine we did it exactly the same so i dunno what it is. Like i fitted some for mates aswell and mine seems to be the only one that is odd? COuld it be a faulty unit?

A while back now i fitted an Autometer boost gauge, one of the better models i could get. But not long after i fitted a boost controller to level out boost and to increase boost response, but when trialling the boost controller to see if it was all hooked up i turned the boost up, but notice that once ya turn the boost controller up the maximum the boost gauge would go to on both the stock gauge and the new gauge was about 8-9psi, if you turned the boost controller up further the gauges didn't read any higher... but ya can hear from the wastegate noise that it was making more boost but it was jsut bleeding with the wastegate and not actually getting more boost to the engine. I have heard from a few guys having a similar thing happen to them in that they can't seem to get more boost than that around 8-9 at the manifold... is there something that needs to be removed for you to be able to turn the boost up to around the 13-15psi mard... maybe do ya have to bypass a factory uni tthat stops you from boosting? Or is it because its only bleed valve and i need an electronic one to boost more? I need to work it out as once the new turbo goes in and stuff i am looking to turn the boost up and it aint looking like it will happen till i work it out. Thnx peoples. J.

Hell yeah i'm up for that... next week i'll have the new turbo on so i'll be in full swing once thats done and its tuned with the Unichip, i'll be lookn at around 230rwkw hopefully

Here's mine, sorry havn't got any recent pictures, but looks rather different now. http://www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/indexYBSLO4.html

I've read from a article by HKS they are good fro 1200 horsepower?

Sold peoples.

lol If ya say 450 its yours no q's asked. lol

Hey peoples, Just wondering if anyone is interested in a good stock R33 turbo, still on my car but had it off recently and checked and is in great condition. Can't remove it till i pick up the new turbo hopefully this week, so just need to find a buyer for this. As i said good condition, asking $500ono.

Dude we'll yake it PM'd ya.

just get a good silicon based one.

This is for an R33, and is the way i done it for me and a few mates, if ya got a different car to the on ein ya avatar let me kno, i've done a fair few gauges now. Step 1: Locate vaccum line on back of intake manifold which if you follow is the only vaccum line goin off that part to in front of the driver in the top left corner of the engine bay where it goes into a small black unit which is the factory boost gauge unit. Step 2: Cut this line half way and fit a t-piece into it. Step 3: Fit extra vaccum line onto the t-piece and run it through the firewall hole near the factory bost gauge unit and down to near the drivers pedals (you'll have to really get under the steering wheel and shove ya hand up there and move the carpet to the side to do so. Once you find the line run it to where you want. (Don't use the nylon vaccum line supplied, only use it to connect the the black rubber vaccum line to the boost gauge at the gold fitting behind the gauge. Only about 6cm or so of the white stuff then throw the rest, it bends to easy and restricts the reading of the boost gauge as it comes all wound up with the gauge and is impossible to straighten without it bending anywhere. Step 4: Fit the gauge cup to where you want the gauge to be positioned. Step 5: With the wire coming off the back of the boost gauge, run the black to a solid ground, and run the red to the positive wire coming off the back of your cigarette lighter. This way when you turn on your lights at night, the gauge will light up also. Step 6: Hide all the wiring and use convoluted tubing to hide boost gauge line and wires to make it neat and hidden. Fit gauge to cup and start boostn

Hey people, I still have my 3 brand new 10" Lightning Audio Strike VC2 SPL comp subs for sale. I am really desperate to sell them cos i need to get new front shocks bad!! Like i said they are all brand new and still in boxes. They are an absolute monster of a sub if anyone has heard the stuff before you will know what i mean. This model of sub recently won the best spl sub in america by there car audio association of america, so i think that says it all. They can be seen on their website at: http://www.lightningaudio.com/2003/product...dex.asp?catid=2 I paid $1100 for all three of them, but am only asking for $580 for the lot of them!! Thats basically half price for top of the range brand new gear that is guaranteed to blow ya car apart. I am damn regretful that i have to sell them, but the one thing no one can do is stop things goin wrong on ya car :S So i am jsut looking to get rid of them for what i need to repair my car. For anyone wanting a crazy comp system then these are a bloody bargain. I'll be sad when they go i tell ya. J.

Don't have a camera dude so no pics but i'll post a pic of the BOV, but as i said its 3 weeks old dude so like new. Yes it does come with the R33 mount i had made for it to bolt straight onto the stock position.

Have a 3 week old Blitz DD BOV. Want to get an A`Pexi BOV and is reason for sale, Paid $380 so after three weeks i think $280 firm is a Damn good buy if ya ask me, save ayself 100 bucks on a near brand new item.

Hey peoples, I bought a Blitz DD BOV three weeks ago, but am looking to find me an A`Pexi dual chamber bov or a GReddy Type R bov. COuldn't get hold of one at the time i bought the blitz as i needed something just to chuck on for the time being. Sounds awesome, but looking for somethin different. Had a HKS SSQ before that, so i'm just movin on i guess ha ha. If anyone is keen to swap BOV's as long as it is in near new condition. Or i will sell my BOV for $280 Firm, as i said its basically brand new and has R33 mount for anyone whos keen.