YBSLO4

Wouldn't a restricter make less best... a bleed valve works by letting less vaccum to the actuator and hence more boost... if you do the opposite of taking it out then you will increase boost... try running smaller inside diameter vac lines, i picked up 1.5psi after going from 6mm i/d to 4mm i/d vac line from the boost controler solonoid to actuator.

They flow well provided they are built using a good design of end tank. In fact can flow better as the distance the air needs to travel to get through the core is shorter, yet cooling capacity isn't harmed as it still cools across the whole length of the core. Really 6 of one, half a dozen of another tho.

Wreckhead: "get new NGK-r and regap them to .6mm" .6mm :) thats a smallass gap dude... .8/.9 sounds more on the ball, and thats what stock platinums come at, shouldn't really be re-gapping platinums as it damages the tip.

Hey all, In conjuction with Nissansilvia.com i will be holding a big cruise towards the end of next month, at this stage June 27th... it will be a nissansilvia.com cruise, however we are inviting all people from this forum to come along, we want everyone from melbourne with performance cars together! No commo's no ford's there the guidelines lol... As some of you may have heard the cruise just passed last weekend, held by some of the guys on NS.com was a real success and we are going to make it far bigger this time, and with plenty of warning, we expect everyone there. Basically it will head out to some nice roads out yarra glen/dandy tourist route etc. bbq lunch and stop at sugarloaf reserve and there will be alot of photo's, and video footage we will be taking. I urge everyone to come along, it will be an awesome day, for those who use Nissansilvia.com go to the site, my nick is 'SuRReal', feel free to PM me on there as i am rarely on this forum anymore (soz ). Furthermore we want to see all the hard tuned street cars out and about for everyone to get a glimpse at, there will be a few tough street cars from ns.com there so we need some of the god's of the road... ripped GTR's!! Final details have not been put together so route and date may still possibly move, but it will be posted when definates are made. Thanks all, make sure ya there!

ha ha funny... my mate just got 'NOTRWC' on his pretty illegal 180 drifter.

Dude thats shocking... thats the problem with leaving car's like these at a workshop you are not familiar with. When i had my kit fitted i left it at a place that is known to constantly have cars like this and alot better (not that yours isn't phat, but i'm talken 2-300K Merc's and stuff), as i know the people personally and they are top people, wouldn't touch a car even if they had to, and the fact that they see them day in, day out is good cos they get over them as its nothing new. Their reputation alone is enough to convince me... But seriously, call the consumer watchdog or whatever they are and spill ya beans they will get into it, and make sure you tell the owner of the shop this too, he will shit bricks. It is actually not legal to drive a car under the supervision of a workshop for anything more than a 'test drive' on parts that were repaied, under suspicion... and 86km's is a lot more than a suspicion. I don't want to bring it up, but in reality, it could have gone for an absolute beating, and you will suffer the consequences in the short future. Personally i think i would have the car checked professionally by a workshop and have a report written and see if there is any mechanical damage, if so take em to court cos then you have a case. More than likely they will get investigated aswell. Its happened before.

2 words... THE BOMB!! I'd have bought it yesterday if i had the cash, one crazy car... peoples check the sepcial on it in i think its Speed magazine.

a 80mm holesaw and a decent power drill and a bit of WD-40... it aint that hard. An i think i'd be worried about getting canaried for the cooler rather than the hole for the piping...

Hey all, Basically i have been accepted into a new uni course, and have no choice but to sell my new beast to pay for fee's. I only got the car 4 months ago from japan, and since have done exstensive mod's and the car has only travelled 620km's in those 4 months!! Specs: 97 model silver, 65,150km's with books & 10 months rego -Nismo 3" stainless exhaust exhaust -Tein HE adjustable suspension -Strut braces front and rear -Brand new Daiken Exedy clutch fitted 200km's ago performance balanced with flywheel after machining -Straight cut gearbox, urethane gearbox mount fitted at same time -A`Pexi EL boost gauge -K&N filter -GFB Mach 1 BOV -After market fuel rail -GTR drivers seat with brand new Sabelt harness -FET full auto turbo timer -Brand new Momo race aluminium gear knob and leather boot -Alloy pedals -Professionally polished rocker cover -Pioneer carozzeria 4-way 6*9 rears, and 6" silver series splits front -Interior parts painted to match body color with added blue pearl (speedo surround, steering cover, gearstick surround, door handles and levers) -Front and rear bars re-sprayed to make everything fresh The car is immaculate in condition, that was the one thing i chased for ages when finding one. I am first owner in aus obviously, and i have basically not driven the car at all in the last 4 months simply because of doing work on it and the rest of the time i spend driving my daily car to and from work so i don't get a chance to take her out, but it was always bought as a weekend/recreational car anyway, not to be driven all the time. Basically i am urgent to sell, i need to cover my fee's asap... i wasn't expecting to get into the course otherwise i wouldn't have spent as much as i have on it in the last 4 months of owning it. The only thing needed to be done is to have the speedo re-calibrated due to the new gearset puting the reading out, which can be easily done through VDO, but i don't have time being at school full time. I am asking $22,500 for it, which is less than what i paid for the car before rego and crap so basically the 5 grand i have spent on her since then is a free bonus to the lucky owner!! Those interested can contact me on 0402 488 879. I currently don't have any pics of the car as i don't have a picture but i'll see what i can organise.

If you havn't already you need to remove the cup pressed into the crank bearing hole, then leave it out (use a slide hammer or delicately tap it out with hammer and cold chisel on the edge, but only as last resort) then before ya fit the spigget bearing get some fine grade 800-1000 sand paper on a pencila nd softly smooth out the inside to ensure it slides easier onto the imput shaft. Now all nissan imports have very tight space around the bell housing, as i found when doing the conversion on my 97' 180sx. there is two ways around this. (Before either make sure your remove the front pipe off the turbo dump to the cat, it allows easier work with gearboxes) * Turn the box sideways to actually get the gearbox in, then turn it back to upright to bolt in. Makre sure you don't EVER use the bolts to pull the gearbox in it will crack the bell housing, screw teh crank bearing or bend the imput shaft... and in drivetrain parts, we are talking a thou's make a HUGE difference on balanced parts! * Another way is to wack it on a hoist if possible, then loosen the engine crossmember bolts about 2/3's off on both sides then get a flat piece of timber long enuff to reach from a car jack to the bottom of the sump of the engine, put a thick piece of wood/metal under the sump across its entire surface area to prevent any crushing, then slowly jack the engine up a little. This tilts the engine in a better angle to get the box in without the bell housing hitting.

Regarding the adjustbale cam gears, the HPI guys tried a Tomei one on their project R34 GTT and they found that 0 degree's is still the best setting, so i dunno how this goes for a good mod, value for money anyway. Definately the best way to utilise any mod's is to get a computer, so as people have mentioned something like a second hand Power FC would eb a good option, they usually around $1-1,200, a fuel pump is about $280 for a bosch 040 good for 500hp and is internal and requires little modifications to fit into the factory fuel pump cage. A boost controller will allow you to turn it up to about 10-11psi to keep it safe until u get a FMIC and or aftermarket turbo/hi-flow etc. Tuning for the computer will be around the $350 mark i'd imagine for dyno time is usually about $150-165 per hour and takes at least a few hours. So ya lookign at about $1850-2000 for those mod's depending onw hat boost controller you choose to use, electronic is definately the way to go if you can afford it. And as for the wheels, the market now days is a lot cheaper than i tuse to be. Especially with guys like Lenso making a good rim at very affordable prices, Big-O tyres have any Lenso wheel in 18's with Falken tyres for $1990 which is good if you aren't after a set of high-po Volk's or Racing Hart's etc cos then ya talking double that just for the rims.

A stock R34 turbo will not bolt on cos it has a t3 exhaust flange, an SR has a T2* flange so any T25/28 etc will fit ONLY. A stock R34 turbo will not produce that power, and if youc an get an R33 to make 250 at the rear sfor 4 grand then yous hould open a shop and start business cos you'll have every skyline owner at ya feet... its bullcrap unless you basically steal half the parts. There is a good 1500-2000 ina good second hadn turbo, about 1500 min for a good cooler, boost controler, computer is at least 1500 fitted, fuel will max out wya before that so ya lookn at 280 odd for a bosch 040 pump and injectors about 500 for second hand ones say some Sard 550cc's should do it and then ya almost there. Thats not to mention an exhasut around a grand now days, filter is a couple of hundred and so on... sorry mate but it aint possible for 4grand.

My first car was a 95 M-spec R33 for 12 months... i chucked on a Garrett T03/4 turbo, custom AVO FMIC, full 3" from turbo, filter etc all the usuals and i sold it and now have a 97 Type-X 180sx... and they are very very different cars to drive. The skyline felt alot quicker even before the mod's btu realistically they are not, my 180 feels slow to drive but is actually just as quick if not quicker than when i first got my skyline. I only have Nismo 3", HKS filter and the rest is suspension mod's, i.e. Tein's, struts etc. and it feels fairly quick, but the best bit is hte mid range torque they have... down low they are crap, i'll say it honestly they are, but get them to 3,500-4 grand and its liek they wake from the dead. I got a few goodies here waiting to go on, a new Daiken Exedy race clutch, modified gearbox, Nismo billet stell one piece lightened flywheel and a few others so i'll tell more then before i actualyl get to any engine stuff but it looks promising at the moment. But my sky was definately a quick car. Oh yeah and if you think its as easy to get 250rwkw as puting and exhaust and filter then boosting it your wrong... to get over 230rwkw, youw ill need, bigger turbo, cooler, filter, exhasut, injectors, computer, fuel pump, boost to a bar and then ya should be there... trust me i been there n done it and it aint that easy once ya get to 200 at the rears, the gains slow down real quick. But if you have a 180/silvia with 220 at the rears it would romp a skyline on the 1/4 with the same power.

If i were you i'd undo the top oil line and make sure whoever refitted your turbo has put the brass washer back in before screwing the oil fitting and line onto the turbo. I bet its missing, causing it to leak over the turbo resulting in the smoke around it. Youc an get these washers from Pirtek for a few bucks. If youw ant braided lines anyway take the standard lines off and take them to Pirtek and they will be able to match up a complete set up, remember you have one oil feed and one oil return underneath, then the two side one's are water lines. But one warning expect to pay big bucks. It's 24 bucks per straight connecter, 28 per 90 degree bend, not to mention the fittings you need for connecting the lines to the turbo. Then the braid itself is anywhere between 25-90 per meter depending on size and inside tubeing used.

A few of you have got it close to right but its not the fact of risking the box and drivetrain, its more of whether they actually know how to launch a 4wd fulls top. Launching one properly is an artform not many master and is the difference between real quick and real slow 1/4 times. Not as much so with GTR's because they have more torque and overall grunt to backup slight mistakes on takeoff. But as far as the usual modded rexy as people say with zorst filter etc. the rex will win if driven by people who can drive both. But either way being in a skyline and beating a rexy doesn't mean you won well cos don't forget rexies are 2ltr So overall rexies are a better performing car. But thats basically for a street race, if it were to keep going rexies are known to run out of puff once above 120-130 they start to level off, whereas the 6 in a skyline will just start to open up and is the reason why skylines decide to get up and run away once into 3. But weigh it up properly don't just bag rexies. Remember 2ltr four vs. 2.5ltr 6...

All alloy is 3mm wall thickness and is 6003 T4 bending grade alloy (very exspensive shyte). Steel is 2mm mild steel, have some 3mm in 60mm piping but only two and too heavy to use i reckon. As for making up cooler piping i couldn't physically do it without the car being there to custom fit it cos then i would simply just be able to bend up a one piece pipe rather than have to cut and weld, is much neater and better flowing as there is no inside joins to interupt airflow.

Um it's in knox, but i can bring the bends home easily. Guessing from when i did mine it will be 60mm piping on the turbo side to the cooler then will go up to bout 3" to the plenum from the cooler but not 100% sure. But let me know and ic an tell u if i got the bends.

Hey all, As i work with a mandrel bender on a daily basis, i was talking to my boss the last day or two and was chatting about all our left over bends that we have lieing round and we thought bout just getting rid of them cheap to guys interested in them for like cooelr piping and exhaustt systems. Generally i get a lot of 3" alloy and steel, both perfect for cooler piping and definately steel for exhausts, of which i had my dump pipe made for about 30 bucks. We bend from 40mm tubing up to 4", but generally the most used is 3", 60mm and 50mm. 60mm alloy is perfect for R33/32 intercooler piping which is what i used on my car, 50mm for some like 180sx's coming off the turbo etc and 3" is good for the outlet side of the cooler going to throtttle body on say SR20's and so on or really good for GTR's and gtst's running larger turbos and what have you. I try and put aside as much of them as i can not to waste them, and at themoment i have about 15 odd 3" mandrel bends ranging from about 45, 60, 70, 75, 90 degree bends in steel, in alloy there is a handful or 3mm wall 3" 90 degree bends and a few in 4.75mm heavy gauge piping in 90's aswell. There's a couple of 60mm 90's and a heaps of 50's. On a weekly basis we usually have this many lieing round constantly rotating between sizeing depending on what i am bending at the time for different jobs. So if anyone is interested PM me if you have any size of what you need, i think he was saying about 15-20 bucks each or something which is damn cheap cos normally the bend itself is about that without material but these have a lot of material either side of bend which is good to cut and play with. Puting i thtis way sounds a lot better, for a 180sx with an SR20, i you could get a cull cat back exahaust in 3" made for about 100 bucks (without muffler)... it will cost more for the flanges to bolt up to the cat than the bend needed and piping to make the rest as they only really need one 60 odd degree bend in a good straight system. So let me know and i can fill you in on whats lieing round at the time so feel free to PM me. This is not a profit thing, i am basically just trying tos top it all being wasted cos we get about 20% back of the material value when its recylcled which is a real waste, so if we can cover the material cost it will save us and the environment, cos it can't be totally recylced!!

Pretty keen it will dude, sat down and calculated it all up and the possiblities as i was doing it all, and its quite achievable to get that kinda power but will need a computer and fuel pump and pressure reg. Nuthin much tho all the main exspensive work is done. Those mod's were next in line for it but need to sell it now so not going to spend any more. If a reg doesn't get the injectors flowing enough then possibly swapping to say some GTR injectors will do the job easy, but for daily driving dude its got enuff as it is untuned lol Its an awesome car, used to get comments everywhere on how well its kept.

As i said if you read it... buy a new synthetic oil and you wont be able to boil it, the boiling point of these oils is far greater than the heat a street driven car can get to so it wont happen, only positive of a timer would be to allow everything in general to cool down so it doesn't warp and suffer heat stress in general.

Go Deson iridium's... problem solved, without a doubt best jap plug around

Ya all fooling yaselves... turbo timers where created to allow the oil in teh turbo around the bearings to cool a little before then engine is shtu off to keep it flowing and prevent crud developing as a result of boiling oil. The simple fact that oil nowdays haveboiling points well above what the engine could ever get to make turbo timers a waste of petrol really, they may allow the engine or turbo to cool a little but lets face it over 2 or so minutes whats it gunna really do?? And idle can actually make a car hotter anyway cos no air is flowing over the engine and radiator.

Narp hate dyno's so never had it done, and didn't want to do it without a computer anyhow. The guy i go through fro stuff said without any problems it should pull about 240rwkw on 1 bar tuned with a computer (was looking at Wolf 3Dv4 & Power FC) which aint nuthin to blink at. Heaps more potential from there without any doubt. With that kinda power you could safely say easy 12's with good tread.

nah soz dude, don't want any car late than 99/00 at the lowest. thnx anyway... common peoples you can't get much better deal than what i am asking at that price. There is so shyte as skylines selling for more than what i am asking that are basically stock...!! Asking 20,500 now

If the rex is a 99+ model with less than 60,000 km's then probs but got a car lined already, but let me know cos i was origionally going to buy a rex.