YBSLO4

Also a goo didea to change ya spark plugs if ya havn't done so dude, a cooler will make ya car run rich, and in turn will blacken up the plugs making it idle shity. Good idea to do if ya have all the other stuff exhaust, filter etc. cos your probs definately due for them.

dude have you got the front right swaybar link? only if its in good nick, and also the passenger sun visor, both must be in excellent condtion.

It will probably fit an R34 because they will sitll use a T3 garret flange no doubt. No matter what tho you wills till need to get a custom pipe from the end of this pipe to the cat, using the stock pipe would be pointless.

So how much of a gain do ya get as far as power goes?

Trust don't make a T-78 or T-88 33/34 turbo kits for the GTSt peoples.

What difference would that have to jsut a plain 3" striaght out pipe rather than the split style? Does the set up where the wastegate outlet and exhaust housing outlet meet cause turbulance due to the direction of flow out of the wastegate exit?

No problems dude, hope it all goes well. If it doesn't fixc it let me kno i have a few other things ya can try.

Nah dude its a manual twist top design similar to the turbosmart design, however instead ofr adjusting spring tension it adjust the division of air between atmo and plumback. Its called the 'stealth' BOV.

I never heard of anyonr bein defective for a loud filter?? Fark if thats the case i am routed...

GTS4G> Problem isn't with other exspensive parts dude, cos usually they have no idea about mechanical stuff, its only things that stand out that catch their eye and defect. I have a big turbo, FMIC, filter, huge BOV everything and they said nothing, had no idea what it was when they popped the hood said yeah its all fine, except braided line he asked what it does and was iffy when i said its just looks, cos i didn't want to reveal its there to take the extra pressure its bearing. I had a Super AFC-II on the dash, three gauges up the pillar, boost switch with 'Boost' next to it, and they proceeded to defect me for my exhaust being to low to the ground as i sparked when i went over a bump :S Thats how smart they are.

When you say it doesn't idle... do you mean it searches? Like it bounces constantly from around 400-800? If so i had the same problem, its caused by a pressure leak. Can happen if you have a leak in your exhaust, a leak in your intake piping or either your O2 or TPS sensors are bung. It will definately be a problem with your cooler piping... the problem is it can also be casued if you have used the factory 90 degree rubber bend or 60 degree rubber bend that if you have pushed the piping into it to far that it overlaps the bend it restricts flow and will cause the same problem. SO basically i know you have checked it but it would pay to remove most of the joins and do it again making sure its 100% sealed and that all pipes are flowing properly. When i found the cause of mine it was because i accidently pushed the piping to far into the rubber bend and it had about 1.5cm gap for air to pass through :S When i fixed it i picked up 2.4psi and saved me a lot of fuel and really really bad lag....

did you connect up the vaccum nipple that used to run to your stock piping Without it the ECU can't get a vacuum reading from the piping.

Forgot to add that was with all stainless clamps and high grade Hose Techniques silicon joints... the shiny stuff...

Forgot to add that was with all stainless clamps and high grade Hose Techniques silicon joints... the shinty stuff...

Piping... hm... i did mine in 3mm alloy... all mandrel bent one piece piping no cut and weld job... all polished... cost me total fitted $110 bucks ha ha ha ha ha ha helps when you have three mandrel benders and unlimited alloy at work to play with not to mention a full polishing bay

Dude go to Pertek i done mine an dmy mates braided lines to our catch cans... It aint cheap tho dude... for 1.2m of braid fitted was $190, with the four weld on threaded fittins (2*rocker covers, 2*catch can = $26) plus the two 90 degree screw on fittings are $28 each for the rocker covers, $18 each for the straight fittings for the catch can... as i sad totalled $190. Once ya do that and then braid ya oild and water lines to the turbo and a few others it gets very exspensive, ya better off jsut using a colored silicon based tubing. Looks good and works. I have since taken my braid off the catch can and just run black silicon tubing and cops don't like the the braid, it makes it look to serious under the bonnet.

If stock filters are so good then why do none of the top jap garage drag cars using them? They spend big bucks on R&D aswell and at least there results show in their times

BOV"s are illegal for the reason being that they vent blow-by into the atmosphere... yes they can be noisey, yes they cause the car to run richer but its stated that they blow un-filtered air/oil into the atmosphere... stupid really, cos last time i checked the exhaust vented to atmo aswell?? But thats all good its only carbon monoxides and what have you, alot worse than the 'ocassional' mist of oil comin from a BOV. P.s. Don't forget BOV's if they aren't a good design will cause crappy throttle response, and having a atmo BOV means you must re-spool that released amount of air. They have their pluses and minuses.

uLa32: anything with DVS, YB, or XTC in the combination always gets me laughing too. I had my sign in name as YBSLO4 for the last three years on all forums i am on, and was going to get it as a plate, however i jus figured it to be unwanted cop attention so i never got them. But when i made it back then i got a lot of comments on it being a mad plate... then it only takes a few others to start using the 'YB' part and its off... but its shit when you think of something ages ago but get generalised thinking you are just another sheep

sold it for 300.

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone knows how to run an engine diagnostics test on an R33 GTSt...? I know on the 180's it has the LED with the little screw on the atual ECU itself, however we don't have them on the R33's. I think its the little 'Check' icon on the dash that lights up orange on start up with the engine behind it that is the replacement for the LED on the ECU and it is this icon that flashes the code's instead. I just need to know how to actual run the test... i head you have to bridge some wires in the engine bay somewhere? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The screw aloows you to adjust hte spring tension. When you are running more bosot pressure you might find it starts to leak in higher rev's so you want to tighten the srping up, however if you are not running as much boost you want to loosen it off to ensure the BOV will be able to open. However they more adjustable nowdays for rice factor to get different sounds.

no probs dude... jus tryin to find it all day lol i'll look now.

Hey dude, i did mine myself, was fairly easy cos i work with a mandrel bender and alloy poilishing at work So i just bent it up in sections of 3mm alloy piping rather than doin a cut and weld job... the best way i found and my mate also who did his aswell use the factory 90degree and about 60-70 degree rubber bends from the stock cooler to held in the sections where it comes through the stock intercooler hole and where it comes through the side inner guard back into the engine bay. I guess the one dissadvantage you are at with a 32 is that your battery is in the engine bay where we brought our piping back through into the engine bay... we just removed our factory water bottle and came through there vertically. As for mounting the cooler, its easiest to use the horn mount to give vertically support on the cooler, then for the bottom ones to mount to the front engine bay rail that runs horizontally, i made two alloy 6mm 90 degree brackets and used 4 large gauge stainless steel self-tapering screws to support them on the rail, then had 18mm hole in each bracket which saw an 18mm bolt with lock nuts on them hold the cooler to it (from the tags on the core). With piping its easier to keep the stock piece of pipe formt he turbo to the factory cooler hole, then connect from here to the inlet of the cooler. As for the other side just copy the Hybrid intercooler kit available, runs like msot skyline kits throguh the side of the inner guard (comes through near the oil filter). Then back up and across the radiator to the inlet plenum. Check my pics to see the piping i did and my catch can i made... ic an make them for anyone interested also http://www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/images/gts7.JPG

REZZ is on the ball An Impul carbon fibre GTR lip And some Bomex aero mirroes would look the shite...