YBSLO4

YFLY4 on a lancer at 2002 melb autosalon... obviously he is scared of the accelarater both with the plates and car? WOG8OI on a Vl... typical CZECH5 on a full ripped show WRX... looked good, but wtf it mean other than coutnry of origen maybe... jus crap TOOL81 on an S15... describes the guy driving it and his birth date? SEXGOD on some stoopid ass commowhore... RIPPD4 on a swift? 'Met i'l ripz ya in my ful-sik stock 1.3ltr' Plenty of others but get me cut even repeating them lol

Hey all, Wsa just thinking bout it the other day after i heard a VL with some crazy ass sounding BOV flutter was real loud, and was wondeirng why mine doesn't do it? I have a huge bar and plate cooler, big turbo, BOV, filter etc and i get flutter but not like other skylines i have heard...? I don't get that hollow sound or slow sounding flutter, mine is quick. SO i took my BOV off and went back to standard one to see if it was my BOV and now i got absolutely none... but i have heard heaps of other skylines with just a cooler and the stock BOV that flutter mad... just wondering why mine don't do it? Or if there is a BOV that has a better sounding noise... i.e. I heard the A`Pexi BOV makes this sound. (P.s. please don't all right its compressor surge cos i kno it)

I cna make you a catchcan like mine for about $130, fully polished with braided fitings (no line, uses normal siliconm hose or option of braid at retail price). Copy of the GReddy catch can. Can see mine at... http://www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/images/gts7.JPG

Hey all, I finally got hold of my BOV i ordered a while ago from Japan, but in between i bought me a Turbosmart Type 3 supersonic BOV and the genuine R33 Turbosmart CNC'd mount, and i no longer need it just sitting here. I had it on the car for jsut under two weeks so its like brand new, i paid $398 for the BOV and $99 for the mount. I am only asking $280 which i think is an VERY good price compared to what i paid a little over 3 weeks ago. Still have box and all, so it is as close to new as ya can get but a lot cheaper than retail. It sounds awesome, and works very very well, good for up to and over 16+psi. I am kinda sad to see it go but i now regret ordering the other one from overseas now cso it cost me a packet and to be honest aint what i was expecting. Its been welded to my cooler piping now soo too late i guess. But please someone buy this its cheap and new!!

There a positives and negatives to both types of coolers... depends on teh manufacturer of the core as to whether the bar na dplate core is likely to leak... basically garrett themselves say their cores aren't 100% sealed when they sell them to you!! But if you look at their core you'd see why its pretty damn average. Basically if you have the room to fit a large tube and fin cooler, go for it as it will work the best. However size for size, a bar and plate cooler will nearly all fo the time have a better result overall. A bar and plate cooler will get a lower intake temperature than a tube and fin HOWEVER will have a slightly higher pressure drop than a tube and find. this is why i said if you have the room to fit a large tube and fin then you can cool to the same amount but with less pressure drop...yes? So it all depends, on what you are after, and a lot of factors, i.e. size, shape, style or brand of core can be either tube and fin, bar and plate, square tube and fin etc. So to cut it short, bar and plate cools better, tube and fin less pressure drop...

I think i wored my statement wrong there, HKS coolers are good don't get me wrong and they are extremely popular but for the hype and brag about them, technically they are not there... put it this way a Hybrid cooler built in aus about 800 for it cooler more efficiently than a HKS type S...?? add piping and your look at around the 1350 mark, a HKS kit cheap is about 17-1800... why would ya bother just for a name? It just pays to do a bit of research on stuff to see what you are acutally buying.

end tank design and inlet/outlet direction, flow levels etc... trust me do some work on it and you'll see.

mine is for sale dude... i am in melbourne tho... check my website at: http://www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/indexYBSLO4.html had a thread on it in for sale section last few days... asking $22.

My AVO cooler cost 880 for the bare core, bout 100 per end tank and the labor cost i aint sure of. But not cheap but worth the quality. ARE are also very very good, but are similar in pricing, but once again they aint cheap for a reason.

predator666: You will be able to polsih to an extent but still wont have the shine of something properly polished. FIndign someone who will take the time to make it perfect is hard also... i hate having things on my car that aren't 100%, so i made sure when i did my stuff it was perfect... i guess in the end it does make a difference. But i'm sure you can do it with that autosol cos i use it on my muffler, but wouldn't bother on anything else. Jimbo2000: Yep strip the paint, sand it, polish it then buff it... will come up like any other polished alloy item.

I got a custom AVO cooler built and its awesome... very thick bar and plate core, with end tanks that run piping out each end so i can run custom piping rather than through the stock position for when the plenum goes on and front mounted throttle body. but i must admit after looking for a while and researching brand name cores, a lot of the popular jap stuff is crap!! Trust me... research a bit of physics and you'll agree too. A big supriser, the popular HKS cooler is shyte... unless you plan yo spend up big on say a Trust SPL drag core then don't buy a jap cooler cos there is some really good stuff here with better results.

ha ha you are all funny... i work with aluminium and polish most of the day as we custom fabricate alloy stuff, and if you can polish with wet and dry and autosol to look as good i'll pay you a weeks wages ha ha its a lot harder than that dude, but good thought. If you were in melbourne i could do it for ya, i done my whole engine bay, i.e. cooler and piping, catch can, cold air box, rocker covers etc looks the shit.

Castor rods... where they at? near the shock?

yeps fit an s15. can try anyway anytime.

Basically the only companies that make a replacement shock for skylines are whiteline, bilstein and koni... pedders, monroe and the others don't have any i have checked already for my R33... i think KYB have some tho? As for that suspension safety check i had that done by pedders, the full thing, and they assured me nothing was wrong as i was worried about a knock from the front left and they even did the drive on shocker test and came up fine, only to find that i got rid of the knock when i replaced the shock with another stock item off a mates care that was in good condition... whats the deal with that? Not very accurate testing if you ask me, actually quite dangerous cos to someone who didn't know much about mechanics and stuff then you would have left it and could have caued serious problems. I also discovered a shotty swaybar link which they failed to pick up and if this item brakes can cause a very serious loss of control while driving. I still have a slight knock and sqeak coming from the front end but finding it hard to pin point, still sound slike something is lose, so i am going to check the wheel bearings and the right hand shock also to ensure it isn't that. Still got me baffled tho.

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone can help me with the timing belt number for my R33... i heard it is the same as the R32 one? Thnx, j.

Dude my Blitz one had the most stall problems i have had with any BOV hence why i sold it... i have had HKS SSQ, Blitz DD BOV, GFB, and problem with all three is that they open with very little pressure at all, good for turbo but bad for stalling, hence why i am now running a turbosmart BOV, it seems to have a lot more spring tension and doesn't stalla s much as it closes a lot quicker, stall problem occures with the delayed shut when driving and can be very dangerous, mine stalled when i pushed the clutch in quickly after being ont he throttle turning into a corner and the steering basically doesn't turn and brakes barely work as engine is off = no power steering or brakes :-( Not fun. An SAFC/II or power fc has the capabilities to bypass the stalling problem.

They have 225/45/17 tyre all round, they are a jap brand Viking, apparently from same manfacturer as Yokahama, but not sure. Imported jsut reckomended them when i bought the rims off him with the car. Without spacers , they don't reall push out as far as my newies lol 9.5" on back ... but with spacers they look really good. Probs one of my favorite rim styles on skylines... to be honest my Enkeis cost me a fair bit and they look rather average :-/ My gradu's make the car look ALOT newer and meaner.

http://www.angelfire.com./co3/thegrub1/images/sky2.jpg

Have a stock cooler for sale, real good condition, can polish if needed, asking $130.

Hey all, Still got my rims i gotta get rid of. They have only done about 6,000km's or less, bout 80% tread. They are 17*8" Gradu rims from japan. They are a multistud rim, so will suit skyline's, 200's, silvia180's etc. Very nice looking rim. Here is a pic of them on my car before i took them off: http:/www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/indexYBSLO4.html Only asking $900 for them, please no offers for 700,650 etc as they cost me far more and have only done 6,000km's. Thnx, j.

M8 is interested in adjustables... i'll speak to him cos he is keen to buy asap.

Hey all, As title says its a dec 95 model Black manual, has done 82,000km's. I am the first owner in aus and have only done 6,500km's since i bought it. I have spent a lot of money on it since i got my liscence in feb, basically all mod's except for the air filter were put on by me since then. Mods include: -17 Enkei racing rims 17*8.5 front, 17*9.5 back -Custom ATP T03/4 turbo -Custom AVO bar and plate front mounted intercooler with polished mandrel bent alloy piping, no welded joins (cooler polished aswell) -3" dump pipe off turbo to cat into a genuine 3" Fujitsubo LegalisR exhaust -K&N M's high power air filter -Turbosmart Type 3 Supersonice BOV with genuine R33 Turbosmart mount -HKS turbo timer -AUtometer ultra-lite pro comp gauges -Custom alloy catch can all polished with braided fittings -Razo race gear knob and Razo race pedals -Custom dash switch panel covered in pearl white vinyl. -Odyssey dry cell battery -Nismo belt pads on all belts, and Nismo hand brake pad -Pioneer head unit, front splits, 6*9's running off 600wAmp, boot wired ready for big sub set up, previously had a huge system in it, and have left all brand new cabling ready for new subs/amps. Also has false floor fitted with all panels and wheel well filled with dacron to kill dead sound and improve sound quality. I have spent A LOT of money on it in the last 4-5 months and am selling for the genuine reason of an obsession to rexies The car is very genuine and took me a while to find one how i wanted it, basically stock and in perfect condition. Has had oil changes every 2,000km's since i bought it (now thats keen) with the best synthetic oil i could get my hands on at the time. Its an excellent buy for anyone interested in a skyline, i have spent all the money on it already. Has never been on a dyno so i can't give power specs, but as it is its estimated on 1 bar tuned with a computer it should make around 230-240rwkw which is some serious power I am urgent to sell it and am now asking $21,000 for the car as i am already losing a lot at that price considering its cheaper than what i paid for just the car and it has all the mods on it of which the turbo and cooler were put on less than a month a go... I have updated pics but was a bit dark at time so i will update again tomorrow hopefully in better daylight: http://www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/indexYBSLO4.html If interested, and can meet in Melbourne to view.

$900 dude, thats what i owe for the othe rrims so just want to cover costs. no less.

yepz same as avatar.