Chi-Town

This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely. @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.

The original pressure sender (switch) had the standard connector and the temp sender had the single terminal connector also. The pressure switch is gone and those wires eliminated from the harness. I left the temp wire as I too used the temp sender to plug the extra hole. I was hoping for an easy answer but I guess I'm going to need to trace some wires to see where my ghost oil pressure light voltage is coming from or maybe I'll just pull the bulb out as there's no pressure switch any longer.

I'll sit down and get a post together 😁

The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?

So like the title says my 97 rs4v has a oil temp sensor but no triple gauges as it was originally factory navigation. My current setup is not using the factory oil pressure sensor as I'm running a link ecu and a real sensor. I did leave the oil temp sensor in. So now as I was working on first start up and bleeding coolant I get the oil light on the dash faintly as the oil temp gets to about 60-70c. Oil pressure is 45psi at idle at the same time. I'm wondering if the temp sender doing this?

Well it runs again! This was a definite case of while I have it apart lol Everything except the body and interior has been restored, refinished, or replaced. @socal_stagea is my IG if you're bored and want to see all the pics.

Block is complete. HKS 2.8 step 2 with the BCD pistons. Next is the head. Step 2 V-cam with the full Monty 😂

@Kip It is nice seeing the finish line in sight finally. Unfortunately when I imported it the 99' 5mt RS4S cars weren't legal here and a 260RS was out of my price range. Honesty the 5mt swap wasn't hard itself, it was just sourcing all the parts. @epstein Duncan is the one that actually gave me the info on the R34 console. I used a GRID digital G-sensor and mounted it on the underside of the factory g-sensor bracket and it cleared the pocket in the center console.

Haven't updated this is a while. -5 speed conversion is done. Then center console, parking brake handle, and mounting bracket can be adapted from a R34 since the S2 parts are all disco. Console is a slightly different grain pattern and color but works fine. R33/ R34 GTS (no booster) clutch pedal works as well as the matching master cylinder. Wiring is simple, jump the starter connector at the fuse box, note which wires are connected at which position on the auto neutral safety switch and cut off the switch harness and connect to the corresponding switch on the 5 speed. -Rear R34 rear subframe swap is completed. Full Nismo arm set, 2-way LSD set up soft, 322mm Brembo brakes, Ohlins Flag-R coil overs (need to drop the spring rate 1Kg) -RB swap is under way. HKS Step 2 High Response 2.8 BCD stroker kit / Step 2 V-Cam / GTIII 4R Kit I may not use the 4R kit but not sure yet as I've seen some pretty decent dyno sheets on it and it doesn't spool as slow as people think when you have v-cam. I have the wiring manual for the car and a spare 260RS harness so the wiring shouldn't be that bad but I just haven't had the time to invest in it. If anyone has a suggestion for someone who can handle it let me know! I have a bunch of spare 5mt swap parts and some Nismo 580 turbos if anyone needs/wants them hit me up. Located in California but willing to ship. As always, thanks to all the members who have answered my questions and helped this project keep moving!

Ok these are the connectors I'm stuck on. The one is near the ECU and the other are behind the air box. Anyone pin these out before? Thanks!

I said in the post that it wasn't financially reasonable for most people but there are those people with deep pockets (not me!🤣)

Thank you sir!

Let's do the math. QRT-C seat 6.4kg Side mount 1.45kg Recaro fixed base 2.26kg 10.11kg total My stock power driver's seat that I weighed today 17.8kg I was simply trying to show there is a decent amount of weight to be shed if you have the cash and time. The weight will vary depending on the components you use as would be expected. Take it as you will.

@Duncan thanks for the reply. That was my original plan, use the 260RS engine harness (I have all 3 pieces) and sort out the interior plugs. What I ran into that worried me was the 2 plugs behind the LH headlight that aren't on the 260RS harness. They have some heavy gauge wire in them. I noticed the R33 GTR harness has them though? Do you have a copy of the 33 manual in English? I have the front end/ fuse box harness from the 260 also if I need to go that far.

Calm down, they were all rough numbers, but just showing possibilities of where to take out a good amount of weight. Here are some actual examples. If you take it both 15-20kg front seats and replaced them with fixed position 6-8kg ultra light carbon Recaro QRT-C A 4kg LiPo battery vs a 18-20kg lead acid Pretty sure I can cut 10kg off the front and rear beam RS4 beams combined. A Volk CE28N (or lighter) with a lighter tire vs the heavy stock wheels and tires, pretty sure between a set of 4 you'll save 2-4kg each. That's rotational mass so even better. 4 Stock rotors vs Project Mu SCR-Pro 2 piece front and rear, pretty sure they save close to if not more than 1kg each, so all together roughly 5-7kg. And again that's rotational mass so even better. HICAS rack weight I guessed on, but still heavier than a Midori Seibi or Cusco HICAS delete. Aluminum or chromoly links will weigh less than the factory stamped steel links and cast front lower arms. Depending on brand, bushing type, and other variables I figured between 8 arms and links you could squeak out 5kg but possibly a tad optimistic. Factory prop shaft 13.7kg vs carbon shaft 6kg (sorry, not quite my estimated numbers) Stock suspension roughly 7kg per corner vs my Flag-L at 5kg, so 8kg for the set of 4. Billet RB block is quoted as 46kg vs stock at 70kg. 34kg savings. Sorry a bit optimistic on this one also but cut down the crank counter weights and run some Ti rods and you'll lose the other 4kg 😄 I forgot these: Full Titanium exhaust vs stock steel piping Titanium or aluminum IC piping vs stock. 300M CV shafts (gun drilled of course) Ceramic CV balls Take out the floor mats Go on a diet Now I'm not saying any of this is budget friendly (or even close) but it's all possible without driving around in an stripped bare empty tin can.