InterCooL

you say your car is coming to life for a few seconds then dieing? had you been doing anything to the before hand?

audio is hard to comment via internet but if you have an rb with exhaust then they'll sound pretty similar

my local mechanic pulled out my s13 clutch master cylinder and sent it off to a clutch place they measured it up and sent it back along with a nissan patrol seal kit. all the internal seals were the right size, fixed my prob, costs <$20 too same thing might be possible with skyline, ring up a few clutch places and see if they will help you out if u take in a disassembled master cylinder

cheap option, you maybe able to drop the oil sump, pull out the piston, and replace the one. if its still a bit low on compression, sell it and get a new car i guess thats one reason why i compression tested my last car before i bought it my mate blew something in his sr20. replaced it to similar specs, and his car was never the same again , just didnt have the same power. has happened to another friend with a different turbo engine. i spun a bearing in my sr20, spent a bit for a built forged bottom end, put it back together and it was laggier than before, -i didnt have the money to go all out with a better turbo etc. i sold the car soon after fixing it. my point is, a lot of money is at stake, you have a lot of options. explore them, get estimates from shops, look at your funds and goals

safc keeps stock ecu, so cold start is still done by stock ecu. my mate paid $350 for a powerfc tune on his r33 gtst. took em around 1 hr to do... i paid about $500 for my powerfc tune on my sr20det, including the testing AND replacing fuel pump, regulator. had to pull fuel filter too. (costs of these parts were added later, the $500 includes tuning and labour). sounds like you got gipped

there is a bagillion threads on this my brothers skyline did this my skyline did this coilpacks both looked fine, but replaced with the spitfires and the problem has 100% gone. swap coilpacks with someone of same car / coilpack types or just buy new ones there is a cheaper option of running your external DIY mismatch of ignition system, thread here somewhere edit: if you dont know someone with same coil packs, what you can do is drop the gap on your plugs. bring em down a good few tenths of mm. say from 1.0mm to 0.5mm. if this improves the misfire situation, then you know you have weak ignition. it may 'fix' the problem, but if you crank up the boost you will run into the same troubles also a pro of getting spitfire coilpacks, i got my fuel economy from 13L to 11L. they'll be making me money soon! (2 years haha)

yeah make sure they arent usin this ha

yup seems like a ripoff of nistune however, if you're able to test it on a dyno with a wideband, maybe there is some benefits from getting an eprom chip burnt? but i would only trust an experienced tuner with many years of rb experience to do it,,, like toshi maybe? he sends out two and tells u to dyno your car, and custom does it for your car that guy on ebay has feedback now. you should contact the other sellers (1 said it will blow up your engine) and ask them if they dyno'd their cars and what power increase / fuel economy it improved. or disproved

the joys of a misfiring skyline there a billions of threads on misfire increased boost = harder for spark to jump on plugs = misfiring solutions? bringing down gaps on plugs = cheapsolution, you still have a weak ignition system spitfire coil packs = $560 from sliding, it'll fix it or you could do your own wiring up of igniter's and leads for $100-300, lots more work, theres a few threads about it here and on other sites

you'd think that if the coilpacks are such a stupid idea that nissan would have picked up on it instead of manufacturing their rb series engines for over 10 years? i just replaced mine with spitfires, i figure if the originals lasted 10 years, than the new ones will surely last my time

are you kidding? that forklift is huge and its lifting it by the rails. the pressure would be distributed all over the rails and it'd be sweet! far more likely to have damage under a car from someone changing a tyre, putting all the pressure into one spot

there is no way you can make your car look better than it really is without doing something really stupid dodgy it is what it is, you have to accept it!

^^ what he said

that's all i needed to hear thank you beer baron!

hey guys ive changed a few pads before and know what pads should look like anyhow my r33 was making a squealin noise from the one disc since i bought it, so i pulled out the pads, and this is what i have found obviously the circled metal prong has been scraping the disc and making the noise. it looks like it is there as a marker to let you know that you're getting low on brake pad meat. however it looks like i still have at least 50% left? am i wrong and r33 pads are meant to be 5-7 times thicker than they are atm? or should i just forget bend the metal prong away from the disc, and drive away and monitor my brake pads?

told you!

actuators that i've played around with have 2 bolts holding it onto the compressor side. u take them off. then at the end of the arm there is a circlip holding it onto the flappers arm, you take it off with a flathead screwdriver / similar thats it

unless something is wrong that we cannot know about, only other thing it could be is the regulator. try swapping ur regulator with another r32's, see if it fixes. if you don't get any good ideas from here, u can goto a dyno place and get them to chuck a fuel flow and pressure meter on it, check whats really going on and get them to diagnose / fix

you probably dont have it the solenoid is drilled to the wall of the engine bay in a skyline easy way to override it is to just run a vacuum hose from the charged piping straight to the wastegate actuator

there is no magical answer. some will say infinite, others will say it may blow of a blade eventually want to be safe? run stock bov

how come i can enlarge all the pics but not the one with the girl?? hahah anyhow great car, welcome to the club what boost you running?

sounds like sydneykids on the money deffo cannot be a clearance / blowby issue IF the catch can isnt filling up when its on the dyno do what sydneykid instructed and let us know the results (i know its alot of work tho

agreed. ive had turbo cars w/o bovs and the noise is crazy, i got pulled over for "having an illegal blow off valve" and i didnt have any bov!!! run stockers for no noise, this is your only option

it sounds like you believe that the stock gasket is guaranteed to fail on you, i didnt know they went that often in skylines? they can take a beating of misfires and not blow head gaskets, unlike some other car manufacturers

not too sure if this helps, but the sr20det and rb series are fairly similar, and the knock sensor on the sr20det is located underneath the intake manifold, a lil plug that resembles a stethoscope, screws to the top of the block. would be a bitch to get to with the intake manifold in place