InterCooL

pulling off a head time consuming and annoying. only pull it off if you blow this gasket. would you be doing the work yourself? it'll probably be $500 or more in labour to swap gaskets. and only change compression ratio if you're going to get it retuned

logging boost level has little to do with a controller e.g aftermarket computer usually can do this, best get one with a map sensor this way you can map rpm verse boost and see the whole thing (vs a/f ratio etc) you could get an ebc with a max boost peak recall, or even just a defi gauge (or similar) that has a peak boost recall. but it wont tell you when it happened or for how long

i'm no expert on dwell settings, but has this provided better fuel burning, perhaps economy and power?

slidin would have got them to you within a few days.. :S

if you cant get spark with increased boost in the chamber, then it has to be your ignition system. my packs looked perfect externally. but i had bad misfires up high on stock boost got spitfires and runs beautifully there are threads that have alternate cheaper solution. not sure exactly what its called, but you run some sort of external coil configuration with different coil leads. no coil pack per cylinder setup. read it on this forum, had a link to a .co.nz forum thread too. costs about $100 iirc, but more messing around

there is debate. i've seen very accurate results yet others hate them you can get a simple version that tells u 0-100, 100-0, 1/4 mile and hp output for around $30-$50 on ebay, i got one myself. cool little tool

hey guys i picked up an r33 gtst s1. it had an audible noise (a whine) coming from the timing belt. you could only hear it when under the bonnet. i took it to local mechanic. we took it apart and inspected the idler / tensioner bearings. these seemed to spin flawlessly in our hands. to quickly test, we put back on the timing belt, no other belts, no cover, etc, and started it. no noise. using a stethoscope we listened to idler / tensioner, no trace of the original sound. we suspected over-tightened belt. all other belts were replaced and put it back together. turned it on, no noise for a while, but as soon as it warmed up the noise was there. the noise is always there now, regardless of being hot / cold, and mechanic still thinks its coming from the idler / tensioner. should i go through all the hassle of pulling out the radiator, belts, crank pulley, timing belt, to replace the idler / tensioner? i'm concerned that the noise is not coming from them and i'll just be wasting my time, and money is there any other avenue that i could investigate , perhaps someone has had a similar problem before? cheers

1. testing fuel pump you need pressure and flow rate. best to be done at a dyno place with a fuel pressure / flow meter. worth around $1000 last time i spoke to a guy who owned one 3. i've re-used pump o-ring seals before. tho in my old car it came cracked, if i went around a corner fast, the petty would become smell-able but that was in a hatch if yours doesnt break when you take it out, then you should be fine. if its brittle replace it. couldnt cost much, just an o ring

02 sensors decompose with age and need replacing. doubt servicing would be worth it in my experience, 02 sensors don't play part of your a/f ratio's when you WOT. also i'm under the distinct impression that narrowbands aren't accurate enough to tune your car to

worst comes to worst, my split dump hit my firewall. i just gave it a wack

does it do it continually or just when you give it some stick? my temp sensor would go off when i gave it a hard boot, came from a restrictive exhaust. clogged cats can cause it

the only thing i think you will really notice to reduce turbo lag will be nitrous or a smaller turbo..

front mount, exhaust, fuel pump, boost controller, remap. doubt you'd be able to get that out of $1500 tho, maybe leave the ecu stock for a while

...the correct question is "how much power will stock injectors handle" jump on some websites of injector makers. they have a calculation applet thing that allows you to put in all your factors and it will rate the injectors for power. rc engineering comes to mind IF the stock injectors run to 220rwkw as mentioned before, then you can have a t66 turbo on your car, just cap the boost to that power.

what wastegate actuator are you using? a new gcg one or your old standard one? if its your old one, it may be getting a bit long in its years

your tuner should be able to set you straight.. but i went from high imp injectors to low imp on my starlet turbo all i had to do was make my own resistor packs... 4x 10watt 10 ohm resistors and i was sweet ..then of course got a tune. just make sure they will physically fit perhaps the pro power fc will just have an option to select low imp injectors and it'll all be good, -maybe not. my emanage could not handle low imp injectors, hence the resistors

i understand that ppl dont reccomend more than 12-14psi through my searching it seems that a majority of people cannot hold stable boost at 14psi with the stock turbo. it has been mentioned that the turbo just cannot provide that much boost up top, even with a jammed shut wastegate just wondering if people have had experience running stable boost, as in, 14psi all the way to redline, on stock rb20det stock turbo (minor mods, zorst + fmic / intake etc).

hey guys i'm just wondering about how much stable boost can a rb20det turbo produce (stock turbo, cooler + zorst mods) i see some ppl run 13-14psi, but i also see that some people have a lot of trouble of holding onto this boost all the way to redline, with many different people saying different factors are the reason for inability to hold steady boost does the stock rb20det turbo max out around the 12-14psi region? cheers

took apart the carbi in a crapbox that i've been using. mate lost a circlip for a throttle linkage. i lost whatever holds the other throttle linkage so i just got some paper clips, bent them around to replace clips still running fine ha one day it'll either not accelerate or jam open

pm sent

correct

Item: R32 gtst custom made 1 piece tailshaft 30% lighter than stock part 10 000km's old Reason for sale: was suspected to fix a problem, did not solve Usually cost $500 to have made Price: $300 please PM me, i'll respond right away Pickup available from south syd (sutherland shire district), I guess it can be sent via mail maybe, maybe not. might have to be couried = exxy.

dont know any of it but its hell cheap and they'll do it all for you and it doesnt take long even kmart tyre and auto does that stuff! its like $20-$30 a disc, all labour included but it'd be best to do an on car wheel balance, it would compensate for anything being out of sync. -unless you are getting vibrations when braking (warped discs, fixed by machining / new discs)

hey guys i've done a lot of searching but can't find out too much info on the stock skyline clutches. do they hold extra power well? i'm looking at hopefully getting my brothers car to around 170-180rwkw (maybe more if he will dish it out) and the just wondering if the standard clutch will hold this, or are they an essential upgrade? he's on a gay budget thanks

the tyres on the front are brand new, my brother doesnt lock up the brakes before i could suggest an on car wheel balance he has got the discs machined and said that its fixed 90% of the problem. yay. so its better then its ever been but im guessing there is still something there thanks for your help so far, i wonder if the rest can be fixed too