InterCooL

i'm guessing pin 27 http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/7/72...ECU_Pinouts.jpg it will get to max volts at max rpm under load on a flat road mine maxes out in second and third gear. but i was able to check using data logging software, i guess you'd need a quick response multimeter and a friend looking at it it could be easier to do it on a dyno. but not cheaper

this thing is still laying around in my garage

don't need to hold on to the motor, check the thread;

anyone have experience using det cans on their rb engine? i'm just wondering wheres the best place to bolt them onto. It seems very difficult to reach a spot on the block got the idea from; http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555006 but its much easier to get to a 4cylinders block than our 6's

one of the petrol guys told me it was a refinery problem. said they had a bad batch and had to cancel fuel sales. but when it kept happenin every week the same petrol station worker just shrugged his shoulders i can't find the other thread

it used to be everytime i go to a shell / bp / caltex on a tuesday they are out of most types of petrol. now it seems that it occurs on any day. is this happening all over the country? i read somewhere on the net that 2008 would be the year in which oil demand is greater than oil production. i wonder if its happened and thats why its getting harder to get petrol. where will it end? if its hard to get 'cheap' petrol now, maybe in 5 years time it will be hard to get petro period? or im just rambling

hey guys just wondering if you were to move the standard ecu on a r33 gtst, would it HAVE to be bolted straight to the chassis in order to function properly? i believe some ecu's need a ground via the ecu's metal case cheers

searching would have got you an answer right away http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l&hl=RRB000

she is under the new rules. she cannot drive a turbo car. sounds like i just answered my own question??? if so, my gf's 16 year old younger sister can drive my car (she's on her L's) yet my gf can't... cause she's on her P's? sounds a bit strange

hey guys here's the situation i have a turbo manual skyline i want to teach my gf to drive manual. but my gf is on her P's and therefore cannot drive turbo cars (she is on green P's so she can drive manual, but just doesnt know how very well) now i believe you can drive a turbo / v8 on your L's. but not on your P's. CORRECT ME HERE IF I'M WRONG IF that statement is right, then while i'm instructing her on how to drive manual; if she drives my car with L plates on, and gets pulled over by a cop, she doesnt have a valid learners license to show to the cop if she drives my car with green P plates, and she gets pulled over by a cop, then she's in trouble for driving a turbo car so which plates do you display? or is there no way around this?

i tried searching and most of responses were for an external squeak in the actual gearbox. this isnt my problem my actual clutch pedal is making a horrible continous squeaking noise (r33gtst) i tried spraying some lube, it only fixed it for a day or two i took it to a mechanic who used a stethoscope and some special spray lube, it fixed it for a week the squeak goes (temporarily) if i apply a hunk of lube to the main piston that runs through the firewall, my mechanic diagnosed this. does anyone have a remedy? i've been using wheel bearing grease. i've found a few posts on other forums saying that they had to disassemble the entire pedal setup to pull out some wierd named components and replace, some bushes and pins and springs. is it common for skylines to require this?

well if you're not into trackwork, then you probably dont care how it stops or goes around a corner, so forget my brake and suspension comment is it for drag use then? perhaps good rubber, lsd (and maybe suspension again) will allow you to get off the line better but if just want more power, why not go for an aggressive camshaft? i know it will through your fuel economy out the window though

not interested in suspension or brake components? everyone is different. do u do (or intend on doing) trackwork?

wow ok i'm so surprised there is no head room with the standard afm. i thought i would not have issues with the standard turbo!

this pic is taken from my s1 r33 gtst (usual bolt ons, exhaust intake cooler, running 7-8PSI only), WOT 2nd and 3rd gear revving out to almost near redline i've tested with my mates r33 s1 AFM and his gives same readings i've pressure tested my intercooler piping and have 0 leaks (i'm 100% sure of this) is it normal for an AFM to get to 5.1v at redline? or very close to it? keep in mind this car is only making 170rwkw, only at 8psi (stock turbo) cheers for any help

thats how i tested mine. hardest thing about doing that test is the fact that there is a million breather pipes that come off the intercooler piping and vent to the intake manifold and the engine. i could only pressurise the system for maybe 5 secs at a time. but had unlimited amount of air so i spent ages doing it. only found one leak and fixed that. ill try a mates afm, then maybe put my smic back on, see if that changes my a/f ratio and my afm readings. cheers guys

k

yeah i can try my mates, ill do that i cleaned my afm with proper elec contact cleaner 6 months ago, didnt think it'd need cleaning again here is my dyno, it isnt logged to rpm's tho

7-8psi, sorta leaks. but yes. no controller

hey guys i have dyno'd my r33 s1 and got a very rich 170rwkw. basic mods, fmic, exhaust, coilpacks, STOCK boost / turbo i finally hooked up some data logging equipment and found out my air flow meter is hittin 5.1v at 6000rpm (just when my AF ratio plummets to 10.5) now its fairly safe now obviously, besides clogging my cat and killing my wb02, but this leaves no head room for me what so ever if i wish to run a bit more boost and reep some more KW i thought the AFM would go to 190-210rwkw before i started having headroom issues? is this normal? and i have spent HOURS hunting down boost leaks, only ever found one AGES ago

LOL!!! that's an extremely cheap price for a turbo swap and tune. maybe if they have done it a million times then they can do it that quickly? i hope so for your sake! definately let us know what they end up charging you, my brother wants to pay someone to do this for him, and he wont pay me...

using this diagram http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/7/72...ECU_Pinouts.jpg for the rb25det ecu, what would you have your kill switch cutting? 'start switch' sounds like a good one to me? i guess i could always go the fuel pump relay too , but if theres any fuel in the rail, it will still start (btw i have a 3 point immobilizer and alarm, this is just extra)

brothers rb20det r32 gets around 9-10L / 100km's. his runs rich (dyno to indicate this). so i think your economy is out the window, something is most likely wrong

thought about contacting these guys? (i have no idea about locations in vic) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...amp;hl=ultimate btw there seems to be a lot of threads for "where to get my emanage tuned", perhaps a search might help?

i had shot coilpacks with my rb25. they gave chronic misfire on full throttle at 4000rpm and above. however this made me drive the car nicely so i still retained great economy. remember it also matters how you drive it, i can get 20% better economy if i'm nice to my car. check your 02 sensor, they're meant to be replaced every 40 000kms iirc and google SAFCII to find out HEAPS of info