InterCooL

there is a thread on here where someone had an r33 gtst with catback. he put on a split dump and gained a significant amount of power. many other ppl claimed the split dump gave superb top end bla bla. so the general answer will be 'yes' however my mate (who had cat back r33) upgraded to split dump + boost and it didn't put down much on the dyno... edit: logic will say that if you remove a restriction, such as cat / small front pipe, then you will reap a benefit. how much? back to back dyno it and put it up for everyone to see ..but no one really has the money / time to do that

if i can find the article in the 1000 magazines at my brothers house (his magazine..) i will see if i can show it to u. magazines and shops will bag the crap out of forums for having "know it alls" who dont know anything. then they write a 2-4 page article basically saying that the stock exhaust on a r32 gtr is as good as you need. i have no opinion. IIRC it was same day, same dyno, reputable exhaust shop. ...

you'll most likely get flamed for suggesting to remove your cat, considering it carries something like a $10 000 fine and is bad for the environment and that a hi flow cat does not rob you of much power as a side note, there was an article in a not so long ago hot 4's / hpi where an r32 gtr had an exhaust upgrade, from stock to a full system, with back to back dyno runs. the stock put out 0.5rwkw more than the aftermarket custom made one. i do not understand why, they were shocked and hypothesised that the stock nissan system has extremely well engineered bends and diameters. but nothing definate. food for thought

i'm still running stock intake pipe, airbox, blow off valve and crank case ventilation system. the air flow meter bolts right up to the airbox. both the bov and the crank case are plumbed in well AFTER the air flow meter this image sorta shows how far down the plumbed in lines are. the airflow meter is off the photo! it makes logical sense that you want the bov air going back through the afm. but definitely not oil.

um perhaps you should try starting your own thread? for performance look at http://www.importforums.com/carsinfo.htm basically not much between the two. but i havent seen a comparison of auto vs manual. that would be interesting to see

i'm no expert but going by this guy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=180694 yes i would be surprised if you couldn't

andrew777 there is a lot of slogging going around in this thread you say you have found a cheap r33 skyline, "but is manual." this sweetens the deal, i do not understand why you seem to be complaining? do you have an issue with a manual, such as, your girlfriend / wife cannot drive manual (teach her )? as you can tell people have their own opinions, as to why you would have autos, the differences, peoples experiences, drag cars and even the weight differences. food for thought. you'll have your own considerations and priorities your answers havent been directly answered tho but these are facts auto's have higher drivetrain loss you cannot get a blow off valve noise WHEN THE GEARS ARE CHANGING in an auto (sorry had to emphasise that) a major question you present is the difference in performance. this is hard to get a finite answer because of all the variables, you would idealy do a whole set of back to back tests of stock r33 identical series, identical tyres and drivers. but we can't. however we do have the time slip registry thread. 13.8 is a self proclaimed great time for an r33 auto as posted by SECURITY with a high flowed r33 with fmic, more boost and front pipe. i am not doubting this memeber in any way or form. in posts 46, 82 of the time registry thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2090940 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2677351 you can see that this time is acheivable on an r33 both with stock turbo and cooler. i'd put money on them being manual. you can go off on a tangent claiming they were different tracks, blantant lies, different tyres, different drivers etc. not conclusive proof of anything, but you make your own conclusion / research.. more questions of yours: to compare an r33 skyline, auto or manual, to a vs commodore (a v6 or v8??) and an au falcon there are many factors. but i think you're only after performance. both falcon and commodore would be expected to have a greater low down throttle response due to higher compression ratio and the missing turbo clogging up the exhaust. however once on boost i doubt either of these cars would stand a chance around a skyline (consider all stock). have a look at the factory figures to give you some sort of indication now to your question about an r33 gtst auto verse an r32 gtst manual, -this would be interesting, quite close. most likely will come down to driver skill (the manual launcher..) and tyres. i think the best thing for you to do would be to test drive both an auto and manual. just do some thinking of what you really want. my comment about disabled people is just my own bias, i've grown up in a family who has had multiple auto transmission failures of family cars and know many friends family cars auto transmission requiring replacement (nothing to do with power, performance, driving or mods). then i have my preferences...

automatic sports cars should only be for the disabled. are you disabled? edit: ok so actual helpful infomation. power wise better to get manual. economic wise, better to get manual. maintenance cost wise, better to get manual. drive ability wise, better to get manual. for blow off valve "pshhhts" between shifts, only able to on manual.

everyone enjoying their misfires?

there's nothing much to look at... this is an r32 jjr kit

there is some info in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...6&hl=custom maybe more too, try a few searches

power isn't relative to pressure alone. its because you have a larger turbo, flowing more air for the same pressure. if you get any turbo car and then replace the stock turbo with a bigger aftermarket unit, you will see a lot more power at lower pressures

in the force induction stick 'quick reference' thread there is this link; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=91993&st=0

there's no magical number or point where the stock ecu will not 'work.' it's more of a guidance if you put an aftermarket computer on your car now and get it tuned, there will be an improvement. most people will just get exhaust, intake (sounds like you have both of these, is it turbo back exhaust?), intercooler and up the boost. stock ecu should be fine. but if you put on an aftermarket computer on at that stage, you will get even more of an improvement. the trend usually is; stock turbo = stock ecu aftermarket turbo (big power) = aftermarket ecu my advice = get an intercooler and crank the boost to 12ish psi. see how your coil packs hold out, see how your bank is going. want more power? get fuel pump, ecu, clutch and a bigger turbo

sorry should have stated, south sydney is my location i've had 3 people say they'll take it usually it takes about 4 ppl to say "yes" before someone actually pays, so i will update this thread if it does not sell. currently sold pending payment

could have damaged a bearing where it has been grabbed by an adjacent surface, causing metal on metal wear, sending particles of metal throughout your engine. could have destroyed oil galleries, pump, and any and every bearing on the other hand i've been told you can just get a 'noisey bearing' which just needs to be replaced. so your engine may need to be replaced or rebuilt. or just a bearing needs to be replaced. an experienced mechanic should be able to tell you once they pull your engine apart. drop your sump off and look for metal filings everywhere. if you have them everywhere then there's a good chance you can say goodbye to your engine

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD hey guys got a short shifter for sale never been opened CNC Billet Stainless Steel shaft. Reduced gear throw by 23 -30%. Shaft is counterweighted to aid in shifting. $35 pickup/postage available at your expense i know for a fact it will bolt right into a r32 gtst. my brother loves his one will need 4 longer bolts for r33 gtst. i think i have seen info that says it will fit sr20/ca18 but unsure myself PM me here

there's a few threads about this, that isnt what a short shifter does. it changes fulcrum points in the shifter dramatically. cutting the length of the shifter won't do the same thing

a leak in your piping would also make your car run rich whilst most likely damaging your turbo.......

ensure you don't have a leak at the joints i had same problem. it was maintaining boost but i had a leak, which means excessive amounts of fuel was being dumped, loss of power, and overspooling of the turbo

the manual for the sr20 lifters say to bleed all air out of the lifters an engine assembly workshop told me to bleed all oil out of the lifters......... i was confused of what to do i followed the manual and was fine. if there's a workshop manual for the rb25 then i'd go by what it says. sorry i dont even know if they exist

someone on this forum converting his rb20det to twin gtr setup. has extreme amount of lag and consequently is selling it. iirc it was fullboost at 6k rpm. way too much mucking around for something that doesnt pay off remember you'll have to have a lot of custom exhaust and intercooler piping work done, then a lot of mucking around with expensive oil and water lines highflow is closest thing to bolt in , a slide highflow maybe require slight modification to an oil line? (but i dont believe these are available anymore). gcg maybe 100% bolt in, someone would have to confirm, -but low lag lots of power. edit: i was assuming you were wanting to change to a twinturbo setup, i have no idea about using only one gtr turbo

sorry i'm still unsure, was the problem the preload on the actuator, or the bellmouth?

o yeah.. um to get that crank nut off there is a variety of tricks that people use... now i'm not reccomending or taking any responsibility, but some people just get someone to jam on the brakes while u take off the nut. others put a big breaker bar on it and move the handle so its touching the ground (while on the nut), -then you blip the starter. or you can use an impact socket device thing. or a rattle gun

taking everything off to get to it... you'll need a crank puller kit ($30-$50) have to remove the radiator (drain the coolant first), and remove all belts not too hard but time consuming. be careful that you dont screw up your timing