InterCooL

agree with above also you can be defected for having anything which changes performance and hence emissions, so boost controllers are on the list of defects (in nsw at least)

apparently there is a few silvias running around with VQ35's so it mustn't be too hard for a vq25? my mate has a vq35 twin turbo 290rwkw and it is a monster. however very expensive!! have you considered a 1jz/2jz? cheap easy power and its not that common i hope you have a lot of time and patience (and money) for the conversion nothing is ever simple

all you have to do is some searches of 2540. i would never touch one after my experience with the gt2876r

hey guys looking for an r32 manual silvertop rb20det ecu expecting to pay around $50-60 drop me a line if u can help cheers

sold

my brother loves the one i put in his r32 gtst

yes if you want to max out the turbo. no if you don't. run it at 8-10psi and you might get away with stock ecu / injectors etc. check af's by a dyno run you will have more lag than normal but not excessive. i'm sure you can find out when you ppl hit fullboost with a gcg highflow on these forums. this is what it comes down to imo; option 1: get another rb25 turbo and limit boost to 10-12psi. all is well $250 ~170rwkw option 2: get a high flow, injectors, fuel pump, ecu (afm perhaps), clutch maybe and tune. $4000-$5000+ ~260rwkw option 3: high flow, low boost, stock ecu, stock fueling, and see how long clutch lasts, $2000+ ~210rwkw??? do you have the cash?

i bought one very cheap. the core is great, piping was fine. however the clamps were useless!! also i found i had to buy an extra silicon hose to make two pipes reach each other... soooo i'd just get a justjap kit, as they come with some t-bolt clamps and the piping all lined up perfectly for me on another skyline

i had to put a short shifter in an r33. couldn't really work it out, so i had a search around. there is info on here. someone posted a link to an animated gif computer model showing how the parts are to be assembled

item: 2 sets of genuine nissan coil packs from / for: r32 gtst and r33 series 1 pics: why: misfiring up top, so i bought newspitfires, therefore expect 1 coilpack in each set to be unhealthy but the other 5 per set to be good price: $130 for a set location: south sydney contact: PM me for quick response, i'm on here daily cheers!

i don't understand. your car is what you want, so what do you want out of it? more power? better handling? better fuel consumption? traction? drifing work? ICE? autosalon styling? don't just do something cause someone tells u.. do it cause its what YOU want.........

thats right. i used the universal one, part rrb000. the end sizes are fine, i'm a bit unsure if it is long enough, but seems to be holding up ok so far

bumping this thread to let any searcher know that this part will definitely not fit an r33 s1 gtst...

thank you very much

looks like victoria

hey guys before i bend my steering arm, i just wanted to know the best / easiest way to replace the boot car is r33 s1gtst. now i stole someones pics here: i've removed the nut closest to the camera but the arm doesnt want to come off easily, and may not need to if there is a better way of getting to the boot any tips? cheers

i was under the impression that as the emanages are piggybacks, you cannot remove the afm by using a map sensor. the map sensor just allows you map beyond the AFM's max readings

think about it serioulsy, the air for that cooler still has to go all the whole length of the intercooler back up to the engine the only difference is that its part of the cooler, no piping, so it looks like less piping... i put a cheap fmic on. i have about 200 to maybe 250rpm's more lag, which isn't noticable unless i'm studying the guages however retaining stock piping and not cutting holes definately has its ups! i was looking to go this route but couldnt justify it when justjap sells their kits for $350ish and ebay can be cheaper (and dodgey too!)

i should note that apparently this tailshaft made the rear vision mirror vibrate slightly at high speeds

or toshi, his prices are in this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...25&hl=remap

i rang up every bolt place in sydney looking for a specific banjo. motorsport connections was the only place that had one for me, but it was alloy

my thoughts = that's a lot of money that could be spent elsewhere. most likely will increase lag by a small amount with no payoff buy a set of injectors or a boost controller or something that you will actually get some performance out of

u can definately buy some for skylines, not sure bout your model. checkout some shops online, maybe nengun, perfectrun, or similar also do some searches on maybe other forums, i'm sure i've seen DIY on this on a few forums

usually the 'wrx sound' comes from a cylinder not firing. you can just test each cylinder by shutting them down one by one (i pulled spark plug leads on my old car). when you get to the misfiring cylinder there will be no difference in the engines behaviour, then you will have to try other avenues on this cylinder, -test for fuel / spark however if yours is doing it whilst at certain rpm points, then you may need to have someone hold the car at the right rev's whilst you are doing this

i was also unsure what to gap the plugs to with new spitfires. i put my down very low at 0.7mm but i had changed 3 sets of skyline plugs in 1 week and did not want to do any again! i havent had a problem buti wonder how they would go at 1.0 or 1.1mm. i'll find out in a few thousand km's when i change plugs again and leave them more open my adivice = leave them at 1.0mm unless you really cant be arsed changing plugs, cause they can be a pain