InterCooL

sounds like clutch to me usually it will be most noticeable in 5th gear, then become more prevalent in lower gears, 4th then 3rd then 2nd n 1st. in time you won't be able to accelerate at all expensive to change too

i was pressurising through a vacuum line in the intake plenum (with the throttle open) however this was leading to most of the air being pumped through the engine and out the exhaust perhaps if i had the throttle closed, and pressurised it through the wastegate pressure line, it may work better. however with my fmic, there is no wastegate vacuum line adapter, so i might have to go and get on made up, and hopefully this will show my boost leak... as i have found out i still have one..

yeah when i tested it, the air was passing out the exhaust but i had enough volume of air to pressure it up a few pounds (very briefly) and i found the leaking hose. i think its fixed... what angle would you need to get the crank in in order to keep all the intake valves closed? here's a piccy rb 25's apparently like sausage and vegetables

thanks for the input guys i found a post by KeyMaker describing how to do a test for leaks, and turns out i actually do have one. so i'm getting a new silicon hose (kit one wasnt long enough...) and gonna do it again. i just went ot the servo with my tools at midnight and they didn't ask anything here's the test; 1. take your pod and AFM off. 2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one). 3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal. 4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal, so you can read pressure on the boost gauge. 5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself (you could probably use that nipple you installed). 6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos. 7. Listen for a leak. and use the soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is.

hey guys i just chucked a fmic on my r33 (stock otherwise but zorst and coilpacks) i'm running stock boost, it boosts perfect, holds it well, etc it idles well and generally is great but when i floor it, it looses heaps of power outside of first gear its not sudden, it just doesnt go fast in 2nd, 3rd or 4th. i thought it might be rich and retard but its not a sudden cut. its just behaving crap i've checked my cooler clamps quickly and they seem perfecct is what i describe symptoms of a boost leak or am i totally wrong? any other tips? i dont have a compressor so its hard to do a pressure test... cheers

type "3bar in psi" in google and see what it says

lol. looks like you answered your own question try googling for some info http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/14075/css/14075_104.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/cm90330.htm etc, etc you have to differentiate between black soot and dark blue-ish smoke coming out your tail pipe when you give it could be excess petrol or oil being burned if its oil, its most likely a turbo seal. compression check will confirm it, but take it to a mechanic if you're in doubt / dont have a compression tester

multimeter is the way to check. takes 2 mins. measure it at idle, give it a rev, and hold it at a sustained rpm, say 2500rpm. see if you have fluctuating volts last skyline i checked (a friends) it was dead as a doornail, got no change in volts. replaced it and the car got an extra 50-80km's iirc (hopefully you gain some more!) also on my skyline i changed spark plugs, cleaned afm and got new coilpacks, that gave me 2L / 100km better economy! my plugs were old though

isnt the 2871 a fair sized turbo? should put around 230-250rwkw? would he need to consider a AFM or injectors upgrade? (could an safc1 control new injectors well?) will his clutch last? i dont know any of the above

let us know how it goes performance wise dont spose you want to get before and after dyno runs for us?

i noticed no difference in my sr20...

have you tried searching for any information? gcg / sliding are the two most popular $1000-$1600 do you have supporting mods for it?

i had a gt2876r 0.86. massively oversized compressor relative to the exhaust wheel. renown for it. i hated the setup. but i never had any strange induction / surge noises not saying its not possible, but if a gt2876r doesnt give you it, then you're not going to be getting it with a hks2530 that iz32 is using?

you're getting surge when you are spooling up? you cannot be doing that. you must be mixing 'surge' with something else. but i cant imagine what

surge typically occurs when you start to build boost, the blow off valve is not going to vent at low pressures, so the air gets pushed out the compressor. can happen at 0psi, can happen at 20psi, pending if u how tight / if u even have a blow off valve does that help?

i dont get the flames part my brother bought an r32gtst which got through compliance with no cat anywhere. it never shot flames, backfired, made black soot or smelt bad. but there was absolutely no cat on it a year later he got a hi flow metal cat. only difference now is that the note is apparently different, -but i cant tell. Oh and he wont get a $10k fine

got mine for under $200 from nissan, but was for sr20. i would have assumed to be in same ballpark, not double the price

headgaskets aren't that hard. time consuming but not hard. if he did it himself and the head was fine he could get away for less than $200 for a vrs kit. maybe do it over a few days with a mate or two to help? pay them in beer and get maggot at night ha. head gaskets are not $5000 jobs. i spoke to a mechanic, he said they sometimes cost $500 (simpler car tho). he charged $1200 i know for a headgasket job on a falcon, along with fixing up other crap. i can put u onto him but he's south syd. if your west then it probably be 1hr drive. but a very honest good mechanic comparison of DIY. for $5500 i obtained a entirely forged bottom end, got head cleaned up, bought 1000 tools (inc. engine hoist), swapped everything over and got the car dyno tuned. i still would have had a bit of cash at the end. DIY ftw

most exhaust shops will do it. go and have a talk to them in south sydney there is a shop called (or was called) performance manufacturing who specialised in computer bent thin walled aluminium piping. unique stuff and good pricing too. however they are a bit slow cause they are a performance car shop, used to no deadlines. pm me for more details if u require them

yeah u can get piping kits from ebay for $200. kits with intercoolers from $350 from justjap but for $200 you could probably go to a performance piping place and get them to just make the one pipe that is required and install it

yeah you have to cut one most kits use a pipe that goes up on that side, requires cutting a hole and usually trimming of the fan blades as they just touch the pipe the plastic piping looks like stock intercooler piping that you find in s13's

you could check it at a good dyno place get them to check your fuel pressure, flow and A/F ratio's. if they're all sweet then i wouldnt worry may cost you $80 tho... half price of a fuel pump ha

a good reference is found in the trader section, this is taken from slidin's as u can see, the s1 r33 gtst and the r33 gtr use the same part Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R32 GTST, Model Number SF-DIS-001, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R32 GTR, Model Number SF-DIS-001, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R33 GTST Series 1, Model Number SF-DIS-001, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R33 GTST Series 2, Model Number SF-DIS-005, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R33 GTR, Model Number SF-DIS-001, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R34 GTT, Model Number SF-DIS-008, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Skyline R34 GTR, Model Number SF-DIS-005, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Silvia S13 PS13 SR20DET, Model Number SF-DIS-004, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Silvia S13 RPS13 SR20DET, Model Number SF-DIS-004, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Silvia S13 180SX SR20DET, Model Number SF-DIS-004, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Silvia S14 Series 1 SR20DET, Model Number SF-DIS-004, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Silvia S14 Series 2 SR20DET, Model Number SF-DIS-004, Splitfire Coil Packs Nissan Silvia S15 SR20DET, Model Number SF-DIS-004,

on the 1jz (or maybe 2j?) toyota changed from twin turbos to a single setup, do produce same power, but 100nm more torque

cam, if you're leaking clutch fluid, its' gotta be goin somewhere put your head under the steering wheel and shine a light up to the pedal. see if you can see it coming in the firewall. check other spots in the engine bay around the master cylinder and give the slave cylinder on the gearbox a squiz. wherever its leaking from is your prob. most likely your seals in your master are gone, which means you can get new seals for cheap, or a new unit for expensive. for my s13 i had to have a clutch place measure up my master cylinder seals and they just gave me a nissan patrol kit (right size!) and cost me $20 or so. problem solved on my bro's r32 i put a boost guage on top of the steering wheel rack thing, infront of the speedo's. didnt hide anything, was legal. had one there for another car, was pretty neat place. plastic T pieces are fine and cheers for fixing the pic haha. nice car n girl. now it reminds me of my female friends r32gts4 cept hers looks meaner cause it has a bodykit