Hi lads. Thanks for the help cant beat the aussies to be fair always helpful even to a paddy irishman😃
Here is the full story just so we are on the same page . I rushed the original post and my message to Gtsboy
Its a 2000 r34 4door gtt rb25det neo auto(for now) with 236thou kilometers all stock apart from mid section to back box is aftermarket exhaust still has cat and original downpipe and 02 sensor .
I got the car from japan back in october last year drove it for a few days because it was winter here and i didnt want to drive it without it been undercoated properly. The car is mint to be fair not a spec of rust apart from one or 2 small surface not even worth talking about. Rust is a big thing in Ireland especially in winter as we salt the roads. I put it in the shed and totally stripped it all suspension out engine and fuel tank out etc.
The car was runing grand apart from the turbo squealing like a supercharger at 5k rpm.
So i went and cleaned the underside and epoxy primed it and then brushed and sprayed seam sealer everywhere , some stone chip and then a coat of white paint. Turned out well better than engine😅
I bought a full gasket kit,sprak plugs,oil and filter and went ahead and stripped the engine to the block. Sent the head away without the cams as the machine shop asked me if they were out already.
Got the head skimmed and valves cleaned/lapped and valve stem seals changed. Went to collect it and he said everything was really carbed up and the stem seals were bad but now everything was perfect he said. I didnt ask about a leak down on it at the time and i wasnt thinking about the valve clearances atall as i thought nothing would of changed.
Stuck the head back on with original nissan gasket and nissan head bolts as the arp studs seem to be like golddust around these parts for rb25. I put the engine back from tdc to install the cams as to not hit valves so that should be ok. All cam timing and base timing is perfect all lines match and 15degrees before tdc is achieved with ease . Normal idle at 800rpm with no flucuating . It just has bad vibration and pops as you hold the throttle, bad lifter tick and weird start when hot is another thing. Doesnt just fire up like nornal its weaker.
Only codes i ever got when driving it since all the work is done is code 21 for ignition singal so i bought 6 new nissan coil packs and checked harness with a meter. And code for the o2 sensor.I now had noticed the hot start was weird and the vibration and sort engine jolt came into it at idle and upto around 2.5k rpm. It pops 90% of the time under throttle . Anything over 3k seems to start smoothing out. I pulled the coils and plugs after few days driving and they were white as. Range 7 so i changed to 6s with the new coils.
The car wont pass emissions test as the co levels are through the roof on her. I dont have any way of reading afr . Stock ecu with the nissan label still on it. Do people still do nistunes ive asked afew tuners around here half them dont even no what im saying haha. Also whats the cheapest option I have for scan tool software for the standard ecu system so i can check stuff as i wont be buying aftermarket ecu just yet.
Now im here checking valve clearances and compression testing etc freaking out😆
Its summer here now and all i want to do is drive the broad minded person😁 excuse my Irish I added a few pics of the build lads let me no what you think thanks for all your help
