hrd-hr30

I don't know, but I do know neither had car issues during qualifying yesterday and Vettel's faster

Pussies don't like dicks, because pussies get f**ked by dicks... /team america

let's try that in context, shall we... doesn't sound like he's being a tool to me.

and they'll now have 2 drivers fighting each other to be slowest on the grid. bringing in a 32yo never-has-been who couldn't make the F1 cut 12 years ago, Sportcar Endurance journey-man to try and help develop your F1 car at the expense of the fastest driver your team's ever had, and probably ever will have, is retarded. /rant

money talks...

Crossing your arms is not only perfectly fine, it's better than repositioning your hands on the wheel. Keeping your hands in position means you know exactly where the wheel is, and you're in a better position to make any corrections needed. There's no situation in that video that requires your hands to be repositioned before the corner. Only when you need about a full turn of lock would you reposition your grip before a corner. Pretty rare on a race track, even a tight low speed course like that. Mt Cotton Hillclimb's hairpin is about the only corner I ever need to do that for, and when I do it I end up with my right hand crossed back over to about 9 o'clock so you're ready to wind lock off if/when needed. All the pros cross their arms, and keep at least one hand in position unless absolutely required.

this popped up on FB last night... Sauber throwing money away on drivers. Ferrari deja-vu? They've paid Kimi to do nothing before. Hamilton costs basicallly twice as much as Rosberg. And bitches and moans twice as much. That must be what it's for... Dan is the bargain of the century. I hope he has BIG performance bonuses! They're paying him just 750,000 Euro - the same as what he was on at Torro Rosso I think...

It's quite normal for any coilover setup to lift wheels going over driveways. Even the Bilstein spring and shock combo I had on my aristo lifted a rear wheel on some driveways. Don't be too worried about it. My GTR on BuddyClub coilovers did it, Supra on Tein Flex did it, 180sx on Teins did it, Soarer on BC's does it. I wouldn't be worried about using any of them on a tarmac rally, and I did drive the GTR (harder than I should) on a couple of closed stages of the SunCoast rally in 07 and it was great. Perks of being a SSO The amount of droop you have is set by the shock length. If the springs are captive at full droop, a helper spring is not needed and will not change anything - not the amount of droop, or the part of the shock travel you are using unless you don't set the ride height back to where it was. But if you don't reset the ride height, it will raise the vehicle by the thickness of the compressed helper spring, and raising the vehicle will leave you with less available droop travel. Even if the springs aren't captive at full droop, helpers won't give you any more droop travel, they just hold the springs captive. But like I said before, I wouldn't be too worried about your droop travel. Change your spring rates to 7/5, run it at a sensible height and enjoy.

Helper springs won't give you more droop, they're just to keep springs captive at full shock extension. You need longer shocks to get more droop. I wouldn't worry too much about it for the touring event. Like you say work with what you've got, 7/5kg will be fine.

yeah, it was interesting to compare that running off the road treatment to the comparitive acre of room he left Dan in the same place a few laps earlier...

I remember seeing the gap down to 7 or 8 tenths in some sectors. He had DRS for a few laps, and Mercedes thought he was close enough to tell Hamilton to let him trough. But I don't think Lewis' side of the garage was ever intending to play the team game. Radio transcripts show all they were concerned about just before they pitted Lewis was the gap back to Rosberg, to make sure they would come out in front of him...

The guys paying the bills probably want to maximise thier WCC points and get as many race wins as possible, every bit as much as Lewis wants to win the WDC. Its a standard thing to let your team mate through in the middle of a race when you're on different strategies. Now that both sides of the garage know this isn't going to happen anymore, they'll be playing their race strategy differently. Track position is now more importnat than the fastest way to the finish line. And that plays into their rivals hands nicely. Lewis is a douche

Rosberg was lapping in the 25s and 26 in the last handful of laps closing the gap down. Dan's best was 27s when he got to the lead trying to clear out. He certainly had the pace to catch Dan given the opportunity, but it's a very difficult track to pass on when tyres are similar age. I guess that's why he said "could have won", not "would have won", hey?

he got the gap down to 0.7. There were a few laps in a row he got DRS. “If Lewis had let Nico go, Nico could have won the race.” Toto Wolff, the Mercedes F1 team CEO

poor Kimi, 7 tenths slower than his team mate. that's as much the problem as the strategist's call to not go out again. If he had done a decent lap - no, scratch that - if he had even managed to do a lap within half a second of his team mate, he'd have been 6th in Q3 instead of 17th and eliminated. but it was also a crap call by the strategist not to realise he was too slow.

yeah, awesome. farking falcons again! lol

quiet in here... Took the Soarer to Mt Cotton last weekend. 48.30. 0.43sec off the Production Road Reg record - mods are exhaust, coilovers and tyres. And my final sector of that run was 0.35sec off my best time for that sector - got too sideways coming back over the crest into the RH turn just before the finish... footage from my car - the fastest run of the weekend first then a few with little stuff ups: footage from the side of the track including a nice slide over lover's leap:

ah, should have mentioned to disconnect the sway bar also if you still have one. Had to miss something, I suppose...

normally just called 'toe arm' on the rear. but yes, to keep static toe setting the same as when you started. I think I mentioned that somewhere in that wall of text!

the other thing to keep in mind when making adjustments is not to make all the adjustments on the traction arm or you'll end up changing the camber alot. Make adjustments alternately on the traction and camber arms, and measure camber again at static height as you go to see what's going on. Don't get too uptight about keeping camber spot on during this process, just so long as it doesn't get way out of whack. You can set the camber back when finished using the method below... Also best to measure and reset static toe after each adjustment. Leave the lock nuts loose on all these arms until you're finished. Resetting static camber: you can change the length of both arms by the same % to get camber back to where it was. It's not a perfect method, but it's a decent approximation as long as camber is not a million miles out. You will still need to check bump steer again afterwards, but this whole deal is an iterative process, and just keep tellign yourself you are getting closer! lol So for example, using nice round numbers... if you need more neg to get the camber back to where you started, the camber arm is 150mm long and you decide to shorten it 5mm, that's 5/150= 0.033' or 3.33%. You need to shorten the traction arm by that same percentage. Say its 120mm long: 120*0.33=4mm. You'll need to check bump steer measurements again after doing that, but it should be reasonably close to how it was. Alternatively, if the thread pitch is the same on both traction and camber arms, using the above numbers of 120 and 150mm lengths, you can turn the camber adjuster 1 and 1/4 turns for every 1 turn of the traction adjuster, because 150/120=1.25. If you're like me and have totally had enough by the time you've done one side, just measure the lengths of the arms and copy that for the other side. For this reason I'd do the actual measuring and setup on the most important side - ie if you're local track has mainly right handers, do the left side rear properly and copy the arm lengths to the right rear. If the car is still a bit twitch in left handers, you can repeat the process later on the other side.

Even Marussia has a FRIC system!

I was only about half way through it and somehow hitting return to start a new line submitted the post instead... It was getting really long... I've set up rear bump steer at home a couple of times before, on my old R32 GTR and 180SX. The process is pretty simple, but time consuming and requires some patience. There are probably better ways if you have equipment but this is my backyard method: - measure your static ride height and camber. ride height is best measured by hooking the tape measure under the lower edge of the rim and measuring up the the gaurd - that's a repeatable procedure that doesn not involve guesswork/judgement/parellax error that the centre of the hub method does. Camber can be roughly measured if you are careful with a spirit level vertically off the lower sidewall, and measuring in to the top edge of the rim - again it's a fixed reference point that makes for repeatable measurements - don't just measure to somewhere on the sidewall. You'll need to reset the camber after/during bump steer adjustments. I'll expand on that later. - jack car up and put it on stands. It needs to be pretty level to get meaningful measurements. - remove coilover - get a 1m length of timber. Knock a nail in each end to hang plumb bobs off. Attach it to the tyre with ratchet strap or something. About 1m long is good because a longer length gives your measurments more sensitivity/accuracy. - tape a big piece of cardboard to the ground under the length of timber. You'll be marking points and lines onto this. It's good to have a few different colours as there's going to be alot of lines! lol Even better is to have some big sheets of paper or a roll of butcher paper you can tape over the cardboard for each set of measurements you take - it will be much clearer and less cluttered that way. - jack the wheel up to the static ride height position, with the timber level. Hang plumb bobs off the nails at each end. Mark those positions on the cardboard. Draw a line through those points and it S1 (or Static position 1) - jack wheel up 60mm and repeat the process. Label this line B1 (Bump position 1). - lower wheel to 30mm below static ride height and do the same, labelling it D1 (Droop position 1) The object of the exercise from here is to get these three lines as parellel as possible. But if anything, gaining a little toe in on bump is OK. You do not want it to toe out under bump. Use an overlay of paper over the top for your next measurements after making an adjustment, or mark them on the cardboard in a diferent colour, label your second set of lines S2, B2, D2. The important thing it to preserve the original S1 line so when you're finished, you can set your static toe back to where it was. So make sure the cardboard doesn't move or you'll have to do an alignment afterwards. tbc... (lunch break is over)

It's no secret the Nissan multi-link rear is bad for bump steer. I learnt it with my R32 GTR almost 10yrs ago. And my 180SX about 5yrs ago had the same issues. If I ever buy another Nissan, somebody slap me. Dialling it out is pretty tedious!

you can't totally eliminate it, but you can certainly get it to within acceptable limits over the most important 3 or 4" of travel around your static ride height.

but the Canada retirement was due to Hamilton not having the awareness to identify early enough, and/or the mechanical sympathy to nurse the car home with the same issue Rosberg had... so Hamilton is responsible for that retirement.