hrd-hr30

44.4 is an exceptional time for someone who hasn't been there much. If you're going out for the first round on March 9 I'll definitely be there to see that.

cheers guys so...you planning on running at Mt Cotton this year giant? would be good to see someone take the fight up to Mike Collins in the awd turbo class!

yeah, it is light. at least until I get in it! should be in the low 900kg range I'd say. it has a PWR oil cooler, but only had rubber lines fixed with hose clamps so it may have been done on the cheap... I'm relocating it to beside the radiator (was behind it) and using quality braided lines and fittings. also replacing the intercooler with one under the bumper that won't block the radiator anything like as much, and have fitted a front spoiler. Oh, and moved the air filter which was partially behind the radiator! and making some shrouds for it. And I've turned the boost down to 1bar instead of 1.5. Hopefully all that will get the overheating sorted and the lower boost should reduce the heat build up in the manifold a bit. Then it will get some suspension tweaks that will hopefully make it quicker around the track even though it lost 30 or 40kw at the wheels. oh, and I've also got to sort the fuel system - the surge tank is under the car nearly horizontal... the car has alot of good gear, but the execution is lacking in alot of areas. I guess that's the risk you take when you buy a car someone else built. But at least its all minor stuff.

thanks for the tips guys. I've just replaced the studs with Sonic studs (mild steel) and metal-lock nuts. I really only bought them because they had the metal-lock nuts - I have no idea about the quality of the stud material. I always use genuine flange gaskets, but never thought about sourcing studs from Nissan. If it happens again I'll go looking for inconel studs. where did you guys source them? RA1's are the gun hillclimbing tyre, but you have to buff them down for best performance. They do go off quickly on heavy cars if you're running multiple laps, but they're perfect for hillclimbing. The other options are RE55S WT compound - Mike Collin's 43sec WRX runs on them. Or the new Dunlop - everyone who's tried them at Mt Cotton has beaten their PB, so they look promising.

I'd still like to get involved in that, but after a run at QR I have a few issues to work through before its anywhere near ready to circuit race. Main ones being overheating after just a couple of laps and turbo flange studs/nuts coming loose. But with the car running like a dog and only on 14psi it ran a 58.23 on the Sprint track on 3yr old Toyo RA1s, so the old Datto shows a bit of promise. I've also made a few suspension changes after its first visit to a proper racetrack - before this it was all hillclimbs which are much lower speed and didn't really show up just how soft the suspension setup was. The car just about falls over in turn 2 at QR!

if you are going to log book it as a 3D Sport Sedan, those front gaurds aren't legal - the opening at the rear of the gaurd is not allowed. The front undertray would also be illegal - not allowed to extend rearward beyone the leading edge of the front tyres. Canards are also not permitted.

Light Vehicle Modifications booklet from QLD Transport pretty clear exhaust systems don't need a mod plate. but if you're not sure you're under the required noise level, you can't really complain about the fine. get it tested and go from there.

did someone pull a plug lead off the lambo? I demand a re-run with Paul Stokell peddelling it! They had to really knobble the Lambo and Fezza with inlet restrictors in Nations cup to bring them down to the Porsche GT3's lap times. I remember when they combined NC and GTP grids at Sandown the R32 golf would out-drag the Ferrari down the straights thanks to the tiny inlet restrictors.

manual, standard torsen LSD. The autos are alot cheaper which was tempting, but I particularly wanted the 6spd manual so i paid the price...

yeah, stock everything apart from pod, exhaust and jap spec Tein Super Street coilovers. Ran a 1:16.4 in the wet which I was fairly happy with for my first time there, and first time with the Supra on the track. Would like to go back there with a dry track. Trying to get my act together for their next day in March, but I want to bring my Datto track car down for that. I was talking to someone from SAU down there who was thinking about buying a Supra, but I'm hopeless with names!

yeah, I think I was probably talking to you on the day? Its got a JASMA system, but the front section including cat has been replaced since it arrived in Aus, presumably for compliancing. The Jasma muffler kind of fell to peices last weekend at QR anyway - all the stainless steel wool packing came shooting out of it on the track, and there's still some strands hanging out the tailpipe now... strangely it didn't get any louder!

I might be interested. I brought my Supra down to Wakefield a couple of weeks ago and ran a 1:16 in pouring rain. Would like to see what it can do on a dry track and semi slicks. when are you guys looking at doing this?

they look alright - do they come in genuine semi slick compounds like the 888 or are they more like the 595RS & Azenis? ie what's their UTQG?

sorry Chris, didn't even realise at the time that anyone I'd know was there, apart from Marty. I should have, I saw your username on that other forum, but it just didn't click. I think after the 1180km drive on Friday my brain wasn't really operating all that well on Saturday. And apart from the stopage for the crashed Evo when I went back into town, it was all happening pretty fast out there. there was someone else from SAU out there, who I was talking to for a while but I wouldn't have a clue what his username is. He's been thinking about buying one too, but was worried about how they handle until he saw mine out there on Saturday...

Wakefield used to be very bumpy apparently, so I'm not surprised a softer setup might have worked better there. But where they group buy spec Billies? The ones I've seen ont he track look awful soft! Who knows, he might have made the same, or better improvement going to Aus spec Teins, or even Jap spec Super Streets. There's alot of different Teins out there, to just lump them all in one basket as crap is wrong. for example an R34 with off the shelf Aus spec teins with no development time finished 10th or 11th outright in Targa Tasmania. Not a place where poor quality shocks, or stuff that's too stiff, are ever going to work. I've got Jap spec super streets in my current road car (not a Skyline) and comfortably drove 1180km to Wakefield Park last weekend and got 5th outright in the wet afternoon session on that track I've never been to before, with only AWD cars in front of me, and plenty behind me too. (I was in a rwd turbo car, standard apart from Teins and exhaust) Point is there's all sorts of Teins, and some of them work very well. From my experience with Tein Super Streets, and knowing the bloke who developed the Aus spec Teins up here in Brisbane, I woldn't hesitate to recommend Aus Spec Teins.

I can vouch for that - it was pouring rain and cold on Saturday. I got a 1:16.4, but I'm not telling you what I was driving for fear of ridicule on this forum! My Datto track car is in pieces thanks to a spark plug 'picking up' the thread when I tried to remove it... of all the stupid little things that can go wrong prepping a car for a track day! So I took my road car down there instead. I think I could have gone a little quicker in the later session if it wasn't for the bloke in a shitbox proton rally car cutting half the corners and dragging heaps of mud onto the track just after all those apexes...

I'd like to come down to NSW to do a round at Oran Park GP and Eastern Creek. Do you need to register for the series to get preference for entries? How do I find out who the organising clubs are for those rounds? they're not ont he CAMS calendar yet.

very cool. I've done the mountain straight hillclimb in my old GTR, which goes from the winery on mountain straight and finishes just before McPhillamy Park, but the whole track would be something else! would be interesting to know what speed he hit on Conrod.

have a look at this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...html&st=100 even if you get the 2000kg towbar that doesn't leave much capacity after the trailer. my trailer weighs 540kg and is considered light. most rental car trailers weigh 7-800kg, leaving only 1200-1300kg for the car you're towing. not many stripped out race skylines weigh in at that, let alone road cars. 4WDs are the best (ie safest) things to tow with. If you are going to be towing car regularly, you should consider gettng a more suitable tow vehicle. My old GQ Patrol is rated to 3500kg towing capacity braked, as are most heavy 4WDs. lighter things like Hilux, Navara, Pajero etc are usually in the 2000-2500kg range. A diesel 4WD will also return much better fuel economy figures than a Stagea too. My diesel GQ gets 14l/100km towing - about what a Stagea gets just hauling itself around!

yeah, you're probably right. It was definitely involving Schumey, so I just automatically though Ferrari...

some teams had "power reduction systems" etc when TC was last banned. and of course, ferrari infamously still had the TC code in their ECU. no way of proving it had been used though.

have they banned TC again? didn't they realise last time that it was impossible to police???

from the well respected physics text, "Yuri the Guru's guide to the universe"? Force is not Energy doing something. You've got it back to front. Energy (in physics) is a measure of Work done by an applied Force. who said anything about an unstoppable force? universe exploding? OK then... energy is always conserved within or between systems. no argument there, but that's a different thing all together. Forces can be applied but do no Work with no Energy transferred, and that's what is happening. Force spent doing nothing = no Energy output. go lean against a wall for 5 minutes - you are applying a Force to it, but you won't get tired and the wall won't heat up from the force (ignoring the conduction of body heat - let's assume that the wall was at body temp beforehand). By leaning on the wall and imparting a Force, you've created a Potential Energy. you haven't transferred any Energy to the wall because you've done no Work on it.

Don't confuse the work you do to create a force with the work done by the force you've created. The energy transferred by a Force = the Work done. If a force is exerted on an object that is not free to move, no work has been done on that object, and therefore no energy has been transferred to it. The fraction of the input force transferred (and lost) to the casing of the box/diff, which is not free to move, has done no work and therefore has not transferred any energy or contributed to any extra heat. force and energy ARE different things. that's why they have different names!

no, it is wasted force, not energy. go exert a force against a wall and see if it generates any heat on the wall. no, read my post agin. its only a fraction of the extra 25kW that will be translated to additional heat. force and energy are different things. heat remains similar because the friction in the drivetrain hasn't increased much. friction increases exponentially with speed and increases very little with additional load. so if the engine speeds haven't substantially altered, neither has the friction. the lost force from the helical gearsets has increased at a fixed percentage of the input force