Axt3365

Same here in Louisiana. I guess I should have asked more about this than the original routing. should I just plumb from the intake at the bleeder screw down to the rear port coming off the block? My problem is I do not know where the flow goes from the throttle body at all. Just cap all the smaller lines and ditch the bleeder screw entirely? Treat me like I’m stupid because I am….

Rb20 r32 sorry

Also I had the routing of the FPR wrong which I realized after removing the dampener on the exit of the rail. for anyone else who runs the stock rail with fpr+dampener setup when you upgrade to aftermarket FPR you have to go straight from the filter into the rail, then into the fpr thereby regulating the pressure coming out, not going in.

Sooo after a good bit of work and downtime on the car I finally got it running again after getting a new 2860rs/injectors/tune and a bunch of new silicone hoses blah blah blah. somewhere along the way I seem to have lost a coolant hose or something? I didn’t have anything attached to the coolant nipple coming out of the TB and sprayed coolant everywhere upon the first drive. It’s the only open port though so I’m kind of assuming I’ve lost a T coming from the rear of the motor near the firewall? As of this moment that port is the feed to the turbo, so should I just T in right there? The previous owner had the port nearest the rail on firewall side plugged so I left it like that. I took some pictures on my DE block as it’s much easier to point all this out with the motor out of the car. (DE has the port the other owner blocked off blocked from the factory in the casting)

Update: after all that hassle, it was a faulty wideband sensor from it being placed too close to the turbo originally and cooked it.

I appreciate all your help and advice. I’ll finish tying up my loose ends, and get the car rolling around the neighborhood in the next few days and report back!

Correct

I have not bypassed it, just connected back as factory fuel pump was. I’ll try that this evening. the gauge on FPR is holding steady @ 45psi

Should have adapter in by this weekend. Hopefully that sorts it out!

Meaning it won’t let enough fuel pass through the rail despite what pressure is on feed side? just ordered another to replace the dampener and see if that makes a difference. Thanks!

That’s a negative ghost rider. I’ve not got euro friends after an e46 expansion tank exploded in my face in a parked car.

Lake Charles, LA, USA near Texas on I-10

I purchased the UEGO at the end of last year. The manual said white wire was 0-5v. I know the standard signal is >1v for these cars. will have to find someone with a laptop and consult cable to check into the tune. Appreciate your quick replies. also it may be worth mentioning I have a standard fuel rail, one that came with a regulator on both sides. I replaced the one at the beginning of the rail with one of those ISR pass thru’s but left the one at the exit. Could this also be causing an issue or it’s unlikely to make a difference?

I sent Martin the list of parts I just mentioned for him to set the base tune parameters around that, including the wideband in place of the o2. will need to find someone with a laptop and consult cable to check and see if that’s been done correctly.

Recently done a bunch of upgrades to my 32 sedan and having some issues with the AFR. Was standard rb20det with just ISR exhaust, FMIC, and an op6 turbo until the seals decided they were done on the turbo. So I got a new gt2860rs, nistune (installed and tuned by rs enthalpy), deatschwerks 550’s, aeromotive fpr set at 45psi, walbro 255 , z32 maf, and aem UEGO. Upon start up my wideband reads 14.7 but within 5-10 seconds will peg out to - - - meaning lean. I tried hooking the white wire (signal output) from AEM to the white wire on the o2 harness but it didn’t make a difference? I’ve also tried putting the sensor in the upstream (3” from hot side) and downstream (36” from hot side) positions with no luck on either? If it’s in the upstream position and under a lot of throttle it will richen SOME (16-17) but shouldn’t it be sitting around 13-15 at idle??? Have not tried driving the car yet to put it under load… Am I missing something? Seems I’ve misplaced my old o2 sensor but should I just get another and resort back to narrowband to see if that fixes the AFR?