Wheezy

Will see how I stand after getting back from Tokyo...50/50. Gearbox may need to come out tho (rear seal leaking and possibly another leak that I cant find), if thats the case then that would be the thing to stop me. So I wont commit until I get back in 2 weeks

Should be able to get some autometer branded line from any auto parts store. WIll cost under $10 iirc. Just take the EBC in there and the T piece to make sure you get the correct OD. I have the same EBC, good choice Cheers -Jez

AAC is there, IAC is not there. GTR PFC d-Jetro, idles fine when cold. All sensors are standard RB20 (R32) except for the Air Temp (RB26) and MAP sensors.

Happy to take my manifold off. Think I have it down to an art now. Otherwise dorifta can go for his life.

I pity the fool who cant remove an RB plenum...$20 set of tools from super crap would be enough to do the job.......and don't give me that torque wrench crap Happy to do a test with some one after I get back from Tokyo at the end of the month Could possibly organise this at Status (I will be there for some data logging tuning soon anyway). I'm sure if time permits Trent would be up for it. (Not putting words in his mouth or anything)

More than happy to compare mine against any RB in VIC for arguments sake....Lets see if we can get some facts for once for the sake of both sides of the argument. Bring it on I say

Chucked one of these on after seeing them at Gizzmo and speaking to URAS. Was while I was fitting my FF plenum on my 20. Not 100% convinced they will make a real world difference to me, but my plenum is fairly cool to touch after dyno runs \ a few laps on a track compared to other Plenums I have touched on an RB. If you can get it cheaper than a genuine Nissan gasket then I would say its a "why not give it a go" while the intake is off, it cant hurt to give it a go.

QFT! Pretty sure I have BCPR7ES-11 gapped down sitting in my RB20 right now If you cant find them just use BCPR7ES if you were going to gap them down anyway whats the point in getting a 1.1mm gap unless you cant find the 0.8 which you can get your hands on from your post

What is your breather setup like? Does it go back into the engine? It could be the engine breathing then burning the oil that got blown in the intake. I would check my intercooler pipes for oil and gunk.

Didn't feel shit in Pakenham......but like RCHOO Feb's one was freaking massive!

When you say stock log mani do you mean factory, or the trust high mount?

I had a set of those cheap ebay cam gears but gave them a miss. If I do cams I will do gears too. Probably some Trust Cam Grears, and Tomei or HKS cams. Thats if the engine holds together. Still not convinced I will need > 256 duration, but a 9-9.1mm lift is in my sights.

Go the 9mm cams Roy, the more I read the less convinced that duration will help my RB20, hopefully 265->260 will prove to be not TOO much of a difference. I am back on the dyno wed since I finally got my manifold leak sorted. 1.4bar if all goes well and see what it does without a leak, 280.1 or so last time with that massive leak on the #6 runner. Cant wait to see our cars on the track together (one day, I can wish right?)

Yup, I should have really checked it all out properly before I installed, but you would think factory = factory, not so it seems. I still think they are a great unit for RB20 providing the face is all square, but if I had a 25 there is no doubt I would just go the Trust item, by the time you purchase, ship, modify to fit correctly you could have a Trust plenum.

Hitachi for RB20DET Red Top. What is the current rating on the GTR alt?

Sounds like you have the eariler Redtop HR31 ecu \ loom in there, I would personally change everything required over the the silvertop R32 loom \ ecu and go from there

f**ker is supposed to be a brand newy when I purchased it 3 years ago. HR31's have some deamons that is for sure, but if it keeps giving me trouble I reckon some beefing up is in order

Yup sounds like the right thing to do Previously bloke who owned the car had a Wolf V4 in it so the loom was hacked to shit, I ended up running a new loom to the fuse box when I put the Silvertop in a few years ago, and I couldnt get a ignition source so I ran one under the dash, but there is still issues elsewhere, could be on the alternator loom, not 100%, its the 3rd alternator in it too

On WOT? Sounds about right.

Yup its in the HR, low revs, and you use something that needs some current, but it has been there for the 5 years I have owned the car. There is so much old wiring in these things its hard to track down. I previously got around it with a big ass battery but changed to a smaller one, now the battery is in a box in the boot so I could always buy a large commodore\falcon size battery. No IAC because I just didn't really bother when putting the FF plenum on, it stood out like dogs balls on top of the plenum so I decided to tune without it. I may put it back in the system yet, but Trent seems to have worked around it.

Cheers for the heads up mate, will give that a go tomorrow EDIT: No bingo, same result TPS voltage looks good from the FC Commander too...

NO AFM, Throttle body was just cleaned...No Idle control, AAC was cleaned, as mentioned NO IAC.... ummm, not stock FPR due to AM Fuel rail... And Nismoid STFU about stock reg, its not by choice! Trent, Ill call you monday

Hi crew, My Silvertop RB20 is stalling when the car is warm. Symptoms include: Clutch in revs drop too low and the car stalls. Eventually the car wont even idle. I have new Splitfire coil packs and rebuilt injectors, and there is no missing in the revs under boost anywhere. (for those who know my car it gets alot of air and fuel in those cylinders ) My thoughts on this include, battery is not being charged by alternator, battery is dead, CAS f**ked or CAS wiring was f**ked up when I extended the wiring. Fuel pump is dyeing at low revs (12 month old Bosch 023) \ when heated up? Remember, this only occurs when the engine is warmed up. There also seems to be a voltage drop across the cars wiring, although this has occurred since I owned it. Another thought is the 555cc RX7 injectors (rebuilt) and the Power FC not liking the de-celeration and turning the injectors off too long \ all together? I hear there are issues with this that cant be tuned out with the hardware on the FC. Also, I do not have an IAC setup, only AAC (although I probably need the former more) This has not been a problem in the last 12 months before the last 2 weeks that I have noticed this. Angry saw this occur 2 weeks ago, and today my missus took the car with me to work as hers is getting a new fuel pump. At first Angry and I thought fouled plugs or lack of fuel, but the car did it at 1/2 tank this morning. It could just be low fuel and the pump running out its supply, but crank it and it starts straight away and drives, drive on the highway without changing gear \ letting the revs drop and no problem. It could also have a tune factor, since I fixed a leak in my intake manifold, but it is still weird to me. Any thoughts to add to what I have described? Cheers -Jez

Happy birthday mang!

Spotted EMSTA in Lakeside Pakenham this morning. I was in a white Barina going to work late