Wheezy

That is what I would do if I was paranoid about it.

Ever seen a trust TD06 L2 kit on an RB20? Standard crossover works

That is probably because of the overheating due to loss of too much water. If it's not on the ground and comp is not too bad, time for a leak down test.... Although I have never done one myself. There are others on here who could point you in the right direction.

The radiator been flow / pressure tested? How old / new is the radiator cap? Losing water at all?

What SargeRX8 said RE; the bleeding, plus the radiator / part of the cooling system is probably blocked with gunk.....Perhaps time to get the radiator flow tested...

FYI, Trust use a 47(ish)mm wastegate on their TD06/T67 kits. Might not be a problem at those boost pressure / gas flow levels. But food for thought

Quite the draconian society you depict there...Not far from the truth when it suits those who benefit from it most.

Def looks like a 25g RB25 kit never came with a T67 (unless you ask nicely) and usually the trust T67 off the shelf only has an 8cm rear housing.

Clutch master cylinder? Will need an R33 item

That is BS....I never would have thought that stretch of road would ever be something under 80...good old Narre Warren TMU at their finest

Stick with the stocker, I am really considering going back to factory and see if I can pick up some mid range, you seem to have to rev them a little harder to make the tiny bit more power you will get.

RB20 has such a small bore and stroke should it be compared to say a 1.4/1.5L DOHC 4 banger.... in terms of stroke and bore? You are always going to have very different behavior not only due to the amount of cylinders due to engine characteristics such as the above, is it fair to compare such things just on capacity alone? I am not completely sure how to look at

RE the RB25, Ignoring the obvious capacity differences... A much larger bore will give it more torque, along with a way better flowing head...it goes with out saying. The redtop 20 also appears by reports to flow better than the silvertop, along with slightly more aggressive cams... My biggest regret is going for the front facing plenum, standard is more than adequate for 99% of the RB20's out there. I really dont see anyone making more power out of cam gears in a 20, more so a little fatter midrange, and not a huge difference in response, perhaps on a snappy 2860 it would be a different story.

Also,a gt30 on an rb20 won't see 20psi before 5,000rpm. I can't imagine the gt35 would be any different...Probably a little more doughier...

A proper trust TD06L2 has been proven time and time again... If you think it is really laggy then you should not have an RB20. It is a worthwhile compromise. If you still want it for daily duties and a little track then you can't go past the HKS 2530 option mentioned or the 2871.

Is this a joke.... Take it to someone who knows what they are doing with these sorts of cars, get it on a dyno and they will tell you what it is doing and what needs to be done to fix it. There are even threads in this section about reputable tuners in VIC, either way this topic should be int the FI section. Perhaps go there and find the million threads about this problem that many R33 owners have faced before you. You have probably already been given the answer by countless people here, bov blocked / going to atmo or R&R mode on the STOCK ECU WHICH WAS PROGRAMMED FOR A STOCK CAR! It is pretty obvious what is going on here, I am guessing that most people have not bothered to post in here because either you are a troll or do not listen when you are told the first time. And if the issue is unique at least a decent tuner can diagnose and recommend or / act upon a resolution. Failing that sell it and get yourself a hyundai i20

The six of the eight requirements mentioned thus far are perfectly legitimate... What is the problem?

So now it's illegal to import MK9 http://uk.gamespot.com/news/6303984.html

Enjoy your AIDS

cheers all, that should be enough info to get me out of trouble.

The problem is not the pins its cutting into the material...probably going the flush ones, road registered or not bonnet pins are usually ones last worry Pretty much, but that is all there is on the market for my car... I just want to make sure that the resin wont crack and require repair. IE. there would be a specific drill bit that I should be using, IE. pitch etc etc...

Weather is starting to change now that we are in a new season, probably effecting the way the turbo is making positive pressure. Air density, temp, precipitation changing etc will all have an effect...

I had a search on the forum and could not find anything relevant to this (at a glance) The crux is that I need to install bonnet pins in my carbon bonnet (I would prefer the flush style one, however I understand that it would mean more material is removed. Has anyone had experience with this? Or does anyone know if a panel beaters in vic that are knowledgeable in this area? I would rather not stuff up my own bonnet and not be able to use it. The two reasons that I am going this route (FYI) is that I would rather have the luxury of pins rather than a looped wire that I currently use for the track. I also have the issues of the bonnet slightly moving around at high speeds...unfortunately with most things after market it does not fit like factory and I am out of adjustment. I understand how carbon is weaved hence the concern. Also under the carbon layer there is fiberglass so it is obviously like most bonnets that are made this way...I am also concerned that the resin over the top of the carbon weaving will crack if not done correctly, leading to more cost and potentially some ugliness in the bonnet. Cheers Jez