kevboost7

Alright thanks guys, i was losing sleep over this. But i was thinking about it and when i started the car up, i forgot to tighten one of the auxiliary screws on the greddy oil filter relocation kit and oil was squirting out of it, so that means i do have pressure... I drew an arrow on the screws that i forgot to tighten And this is the remote mounted oil sender unit. In the photo i didn't have the wire plugged in, but i drew an arrow to where its not plugged in to the wire down at the bottom. There is a connector down there was a rubber boot on it. How do i diagnose the gauge? Should i try to put the old sender unit on and see if the new one was just faulty?

I just finished a intake plenum removal and installation and while I was at it, I installed a remote mounted oil sender unit from RHDautodesigns and a greddy oil filter relocation. after I put everything back, I started up the car and noticed that I wasn’t getting any oil pressure. The needle didn’t move at all. the car was running for a solid 2-3 minutes at idle before I noticed this. Engine still ran smooth though. I’m not sure how to diagnose or fix this issue. Anyone got suggestions for me?

Also, this is kind of a weird question, but theoretically, could i leave this line in place and cap it off at the end? (this is the line that would go up into the intake plenum) because once i have the intake plenum on, it will be impossible to add the vacuum cap. So this gives me the flexibility of using the stock boost controller. Since i still need to learn how to map my ECU to the 3 Port mac valve. I'm not sure if my explanation make senses.

@joshuaho96 Thanks man, i'm all the way on the other coast in North Carolina. I wish i was in cali though, you guys have better weather haha. But thanks for the response. I'm gonna try to do everything the right way and use the correct size hoses. One last question, where do i connect the 2 wires from the 3 Port Mac Valve? Would i connect it to the stock boost controller?

i noticed with the silicone vacuum lines, they are often too small in diameter for the hoses, so they don't even fit. You sure that the hose clamps are necessary? cause they feel pretty snug already.

Got it. Thanks so much man. You have no idea how much i was scratching my head at this earlier when i was in the garage. One last thing, i purchased these silicone vacuum hoses. You think they will be okay under the plenum? https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/products/hps-quarter-inch-red-high-temp-silicone-vacuum-hose-tubing-coolant-overflow-tube The reason i'm asking is that they aren't reinforced like the new silicone coolant tubes i got. I'm just not sure if it will affect any performance or not. Additionally, if the diameter of the vacuum hose that i use 1mm too small, is that going to be an issue?

@joshuaho96 thank you for the response. I did see that you answered my question on reddit, but i didn't know how credible it was, since it was on reddit haha. I have a few more questions. The first one might be a dumb one, but how do i cap the vacuum line on the coolant/vacuum pipe? I'm assuming that you are referring to this pipe. Can you double check my drawing to see if i got this right? and on the intake plenum, i would connect this line to port 3 on the mac valve? because this line would originally go to the "capped off" line on the water pipe. And then lastly, would this already be capped off? or would i have to do this myself?

Hello everyone, i'm fairly new to the tuning/modifying scene and just picked up a r32 gtr. I purchased a 3 port mac valve for boost control and i have a haltech platinum pro ecu that i haven't installed yet. Right now, i have the intake plenum off as all my coolant lines are rotted so i replaced them with silicone hoses. I figured i'd get some other stuff out of the way, but i'm a little confused on the boost controller and where i should hook it up. I see diagrams on the web of people saying that i should connect it near the back of the engine for boost source. However, i still have the factory boost selonoid. Is it possible that i can just replace the factory one with the boost selenoid? And if so, which one is the in and which one is the out?