kevboost7

Hey guys, need help figuring out why my driver side (RH) fuse 15amp keeps blowing. The Driver Sides Headlamp is out, i replaced these a long time ago with LED ones that were working for 1-2 years. Now, the driver side light is out and i traced it back to a broken fuse. I replaced the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay and as soon as i flip the headlight on, it blows the new fuse. Any idea what's going on?

Are you guys daily driving your skylines?? Its already pretty cold here in the U.S. already where you dont need the AC now. Its nice fall weather.

Oh you already converted to R134a? Interesting. Is there a kit to do that? And i didn't know the evap was under the dash. Prayers up for you bro haha hopefully its something easy to fix. AC systems have always been the hardest thing for me to wrap my head around.

The car is a manual. The fuild in there has been replaced too. There was actually milkshake under the radiator cap. In fact, the whole coolant was brown milkshake last year. I drained all the brown liquid out via radiator. Replaced the OEM radiator with a Koyo and Replaced all the coolant hoses under the plenum. I re-filled with fresh green coolant, and now i see brown spots contaminating the coolant again. Its not completely taking over like before though. I really hope its just left over rust not flushed out properly.

I'm getting some brown sludge in my radiator and coolant reservoir. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner with forged pistons and rods, and new turbos, etc. I'm suspecting the oil is mixing with the coolant because of the stock oil cooler thing. I read that some of the gaskets can fail and cause the oil and coolant to mix. How do I test if this is the problem?

Yeah i have the divider, with 3 hooks.

Did you re-gas yourself? And i'm not familiar with the leaking points. What if its leaking under the dash? I'm assuming this is a pain in the ass job to fix?

When i got my car it didn't come with rear seats. I wish i had some. I'm looking at a set on eBay. Are there any other hardware components i will need to be able to install the rear seats? I've never taken one out so I'm not sure if I'm being naive by thinking i can just purchase these seats and install them easily. Is there something i need to keep in mind or look out for?

I'm a bit paranoid, but i've caught a normal car dealership in which i bought my truck (Ford F-150). I dropped it off in the morning and when i returned, i found the car had 100 more miles on it. I know that alignments don't take 100 miles.

So Moral of the story: MaxSpeedingRods are trash. Got it. So which Coilovers should i get? If i'm mainly street driving?

f**k my life.. this whole time i thought the AC was just broken, but now realizing that i probably broke it myself is really hitting me

Thats the problem, this car in the states gets more attention than lamborghinis and ferarris. I have yet to take this car to any shop because i'm afraid they will take it for joyrides. I need to do an alignment but i've been holding off.

After reading this and a few other comments, i'm starting to realize something... Since i got the car, the AC belt was never put on. I installed the belt on a few months ago because i was tired of melting in the hot car. Once i installed the belt, i was troubleshooting the AC and was turning the red switch on/off while driving the car to see if anything was happening. The engine was rebuilt by shop before i purchased the car and the shop might not have re-gassed the AC. Which means i was running the AC without any gas/refrigerant inside the compressor. The AC compressor now acts as if its seized up. I'm starting to think, i caused this damage.

I was thinking the same thing when i saw the size of the smaller Toyota Compressor, but i'm not an AC expert. Where did you take it to get re-gassed?

Does anyone know if the cars came with a factory undercoating?

Did that stuff come from the factory? I wasn't sure if the undercoating was sprayed afterwards to hide the rust.

its not really a truck bed liner

No, i used Rust Encapsulator Plus. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus-quart.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo8S3BhDeARIsAFRmkONxM27m1gqntP8Uw-ktrfx9g2Eq_UtGGcqlM0Sn3sYdcU1RyivLnNEaAi7LEALw_wcB&wcid=18675710285&wickedid=657100129148&wickedsource=google&wv=4

This is what it looks like when i was done. This took A LOT of elbow grease. Ill upload pictures tomorrow of it painted. I used this stuff from Eastwood called Rust Encapsulater plus.

Update: I started peeling all the undercoating and this stuff was really tough to remove when it was bonded properly with the metal.. The initial top coating (rubber) came off easy, but there was this primer layer, sort of vanilla colored stuff that was extremely stuck on to the bare metal. This is what it looks like halfway removed. You can see the silver bare metal, then the vanilla colored primer, then the black rubber undercoating.

The website said you need a AC technican to swap it in. Is that true? How did you fill the refridgerant? Was it easy to install? If i just got the bracket and the new smaller AC compressor, would the other components be compatible with R134?

I'm looking at it now. The price dosent seem that bad.. a new R32 GTR AC compressor is $500-600 here in the states. It looks like they are using a different compressor though from a Toyota Echo.

Does yalls AC work?

I bought the car like this, but the previous owner installed a on/off switch on the dash to turn on the AC compressor. I believe this switch is wired to the engine bays fuse panel. When i switch the AC compressor on, i feel it dragging the engine and it makes a grinding noise. My question is, should i have the AC compressor rebuilt? is that a possibility? or should i buy a new one?

I’ve never tried it