kevboost7

This is what it looks like when i was done. This took A LOT of elbow grease. Ill upload pictures tomorrow of it painted. I used this stuff from Eastwood called Rust Encapsulater plus.

Update: I started peeling all the undercoating and this stuff was really tough to remove when it was bonded properly with the metal.. The initial top coating (rubber) came off easy, but there was this primer layer, sort of vanilla colored stuff that was extremely stuck on to the bare metal. This is what it looks like halfway removed. You can see the silver bare metal, then the vanilla colored primer, then the black rubber undercoating.

The website said you need a AC technican to swap it in. Is that true? How did you fill the refridgerant? Was it easy to install? If i just got the bracket and the new smaller AC compressor, would the other components be compatible with R134?

I'm looking at it now. The price dosent seem that bad.. a new R32 GTR AC compressor is $500-600 here in the states. It looks like they are using a different compressor though from a Toyota Echo.

Does yalls AC work?

I bought the car like this, but the previous owner installed a on/off switch on the dash to turn on the AC compressor. I believe this switch is wired to the engine bays fuse panel. When i switch the AC compressor on, i feel it dragging the engine and it makes a grinding noise. My question is, should i have the AC compressor rebuilt? is that a possibility? or should i buy a new one?

I’ve never tried it

Anyone have insights on water rusting out the rear trunk where the spare tire goes? How can i prevent water from leaking into that area? I think i'm missing rubber sealant somewhere.

Hey update! I took the car out for a spin yesterday and oh my god, this feels like a different car! i think i finally experienced what more than 8psi of boost felt like. I had the duty cycle on the selnoid set to 50% and it was boositng to close to 22psi before the cut-off. I got to experience 1 second of pure bliss between 5000-8000rpms in each gear, until i hit 5th gear. But i will say, it is pretty laggy. like 1000-4000k has no action. Then 5k and beyond is just hold on to your seat kinda experience. before when i was running 8psi of boost, even though the car was objectively slower, it felt like, i could stay in the gear longer and really enjoy all 8000rpms. Now its more like, 1-4k, takes forever, then 5k (boost hits) and within miliseconds, its time for me to shift again.

Wow, the latter ones instagram shows amazing work. When you got it back, do you feel like they replaced all the springs and components with new ones? Or they restored the old exisiting ones?

It dosent work right now anyways

who did you send it too for the restoration? I remember youre in the states?

Thanks lol

Right. Of course i knew the turbo inlet is sucking air. Just testing you.

Im re-inventing the wheel lol

I got these caps. They look kinda thin, like they would blow out with 15 or 20psi of boost.

Funny you ask, because its been about a year since i made this post. She is no longer my gf now lol. I have a new one though that didn't mind the squeeling.

Is there a best practice on how to cap this? Its a 1.5 inch hole. I couldn't find standard sized caps, except some thin walled vinyl caps to fit the hole. Is there where you guys would cap it at? (circled in red) or would you cap it off the hose that attaches to this. As the re-circ pipe comes up from the intercooler and has a bunch more twists of connections and hardpipe that seperates into a soft rubber pipe to each turbo.

yeah it does! I'm going to tweak it one more time so the cover fits perfect as right now the cover is slightly popping out 1-2 cm.

Drew up a aluminum bracket for my Haltech Platinum Pro ECU on CAD and got it laser cut. Took 2 prototypes to get the fitment right.

Update: I got the rotors turned by a local machine shop. This cured the squealing.

not a picture of my car, but i have this part behind the ABS module

Interesting. I never made the connection on the Group N. Always read it like "gruppin". What's the difference between -5 and -7?

I did more research. They are -5. Are they any good?

The previous owner told me that he had a shop replace the old turbos with these. https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/garrett-rb26dett-gruppe-n-turbo-upgrade.html Anyone know anything about them? Looks like they are just GT2860R's? Not sure why they are renamed Grup-N... Does the compressor wheel look like they are in okay condition?