kevboost7

@joshuaho96 I'm sorry josh , i dont know if i'm dumb or missing something here, but your original diagram makes no sense with my configuration. I have internal waste gates. This is what you said: "Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing." based on that description of what you said above^^ this is what the connections should look like below: is that what you are suggesting? Port 1 on the Mac valve (vent to atmosphere) should go back to the turbo pressure?

According to your explanation @joshuaho96 this is how it should be connected right? What i don't understand is that if i route all the lines like this... how is the plenum equal to the wastegate line? I thought port 2 on the MAC valve should be port the waste gate line? I really appreciate you guys helping me look at these diagrams.

Right now, this is how everything is connected in my car. According to the theory, everything should be working.. its just that other green line going to the plenum that is confusing me.

What happens if the factory solenoid is not activated and it is not tied to the plenum? Wont it just bleed the air back? And when you say blue line, isn't the blue line the turbo pressure?

What is confusing me is the green line going to the wastegates that is also connected to the plenum. Why can't i just replace the factory boost selonoid with a 3 port mac? Why do i have to cap off the factory dual vacuum/coolant pipe and use the line from the plenum?

are you in the states? i wish i could talk to you on the phone. Not sure if you're up for that. My number is 703-626-8787

Hey @joshuaho96 i got my car tuned last weekend, and we installed the 3 port mac. The tuner turned up the boost on the computer, but it wasn't actually boosting any higher... i'm re-reading your instructions and they are confusing. "Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing." What you said in quotation above, does not align with the diagram with the twin turbos. According to the diagram, port 2 is the wastegate and would be the green line.

Yes, last year i had all the hoses replaced with new silicone ones. And i even replaced that silver hard vacuum/coolane pipe that all the hoses connect. That hard pipe was corroded. Everything under the plenum is 100% dry. This is a silly question, but the transmission dosent get any coolant does it?

i looked everywhere.. under the plenum is dry. Its only around the transmission area. I'm so puzzled. I tried to get a endoscope to look at it, but its too dark to tell. At this point, i don't think i can see where the leak is coming from unless i remove the engine.. is it possible to get to the back of the motor without removing it? I'm assuming its the half moon things, but i've never seen them with my own eyes.

I'm getting ready to rebuild my brake calipers.. how do i cap off my brake lines? Are they banjo bolts? If i have the calipers off for 1 day, how do i prevent the brake fluid from leaking everywhere?

Not sure if this is a dumb question, but I had the front of the car on jack stands and was checking the tie rods. I had my hands on the 3 and 9 o'clock position on the tire and wiggled left and right. There is no play on the tie rod, but i noticed there is some play in the steering rack itself. When i moved the tire left and right about a few cm, my dad said the steering wheel also moved with it. Not quite sure if i'm doing the test right or if its normal for the steering rack to have this play.

why do they measure it from the centre of the wheel? it seems inaccurate

345mm from the ground to the top of the fender?

Like the title says, how lowered is your car? And how does it handle on the street? Mine is really low (came like this from japan). I can barely fit a finger between the tire and the fender. It looks good, but is a pain in the ass to get a jack under the car and it does not ride good on the street.

Also, while i'm replacing the inner tie rod boot, anything else i should replace? the place i buy parts, charge shipping so i'm trying to bulk buy everything to avoid paying shipping twice lol

what would i be looking for? shiny new looking pistons? do pistons have markings on them to indicate a brand or something?

Duncan, thank you for this. The previous owner did say that he paid a shop to rebuild the engine with forged components. I have no way of verifying this, but I know that the shop wasn't detail oriented as there are mix n matched screws everywhere. And they did not replace the coolant water hoses or metal line under the plenum that was rusted. Last year, i replaced all the coolant hoses. As for the welch plugs. . in my drawing, is this where the transmission connects to it?

I dont even know where the welch plugs are at on the engine. What are they for? Does anyone have a diagram?

It can't be from the heater hoses. I checked and its clean.

Good points GTS. Is it possible to replace the welch plug on the back of the engine while it's in the car? So let me understand. In normal conditions, inside of the boot, the rod should be clean and have no grease or PS fluid on it?

What do you mean it leaked under boost? How can you tell?

Crawled underneath my car to see where the drops of liquid is coming from. I have 2 issues. 1. There is a coolant leak somewhere between the engine and the transmission. I have no idea where this is coming from. It seems very slow. Is it possible that the coolant is leaking between the transmission and the engine?? (idk if that's a dumb question). Its only on the drivers side. the passenger side is clean. Last year i did a complete coolant hose overhaul and replaced everything with silicon tubes. 2. I noticed that the boot on my power steering rods are torn. Is the grease underneath the car just from the boot being torn? or is the power steering leaking itself? Is it supposed to be greased and lubed up inside the boot?

Got it. Will be tackling this when it gets cooler. Currently 97 degrees in south carolina.

What do you mean a key?

1. When and where do i stop peeling back the current coating? Do i remove an entire section? because the wheel well is connected to the underbody and the coating spans the entire bottom side of the car. 2. After i clean the rust area with wire-wheel, how do i prep and reseal the surface? Since the current coating peels in irregular shapes, would i just spray over the existing coating to blend it in? (Not sure if that makes sense. For example, if I'm painting a house, each room is sectioned off so its easy to tell where and when to stop. But in this car, the wheel well, is part of the frame and goes to the underside)