
kevboost7
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Everything posted by kevboost7
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not a picture of my car, but i have this part behind the ABS module
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Can anyone shed some insight on this Turbo?
kevboost7 replied to kevboost7's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Interesting. I never made the connection on the Group N. Always read it like "gruppin". What's the difference between -5 and -7? -
Can anyone shed some insight on this Turbo?
kevboost7 replied to kevboost7's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I did more research. They are -5. Are they any good? -
The previous owner told me that he had a shop replace the old turbos with these. https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/garrett-rb26dett-gruppe-n-turbo-upgrade.html Anyone know anything about them? Looks like they are just GT2860R's? Not sure why they are renamed Grup-N... Does the compressor wheel look like they are in okay condition?
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Revisiting this thread again x2... 1 year later. This car has been an ongoing project between life. But, I never removed the re-circ pipe. I know, shame on me. But since then, i took it to get tuned and only making about 280hp (lame) and i'm chasing a boost issue where the car wont boost past 7-8psi. Mac valve installed. Haltech Platinum pro with the map sensor. This is the first time i've tackled the turbo side of things, but i have that side somewhat taken apart to chase the waste gate vacuum lines. And noticed this stupid pipe again. I'm peicing together the puzzle and @GTSBoy mentioned that it was a big vaccuum chamber and said a bunch of car math stuff that I couldn't quite follow the car math (im trying). You guys think this would be the culprit? between rotting vacuum hoses? i'm making a DIY boost leak tester this weekend.
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@Milhouse Sorry to hear that brother. I never got to the bottom of mine, although i didn't have a large amount of oil like you described. I just wipe it up as best as i can everytime i'm under the car and if i ever have to remove the engine, then i'd find the root cause of this leak. It sucks that you just had your engine out though.
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Fuel door and trunk release cable
kevboost7 replied to weikleenget's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Some advice, i realized that the cable broke, because there is a big ass washer on the seatbelt thing and it was squeezing the cable causing it to have extra tension. Make sure that big washer isn't sandwiching the cable. -
Fuel door and trunk release cable
kevboost7 replied to weikleenget's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I replaced this cable recently. I purchased it from concept Z performance. And it was a R34 one. Can confirm it works. https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-trunk-lid-gas-filler-opener-cable-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-r-gtt-84650-aa100_p_56279.php -
Not sure why everyone thinks i hooked it up wrong, but Josh is spot on with my vacuum line set-up. The picture of my MAC valve shows the 2 red vacuum lines going to the water/coolant combo pipe and the black vacuum line is going to the last nipple under the plenum. (See below) Josh i have a few questions: 1. You might need to use an air compressor or just blow through the hoses. When it's off it should connect port 3 to port - Can i blow air with my mouth? 2. Put 14 psi into port 1 vacuum line and verify you can hear it venting into the intake piping before the turbos. It shouldn't hold pressure substantially. - Why 14 PSI? I have a compressor, but im not sure if i can get it to those tolerances.
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I found it in my glovebox. Looks like whoever owned it before had did some snipping. No clue what it is for. Any ideas?