reallyspeedly

This is in northen Europe. Somewhere in Norway, Sweden, Finland. I did not take these pictures.

agree, i dont like TommyFYeah either. He seems to be such a confused d#ick head

Found some old pictures on my R32, it still looks the same but a bit more rough. Any ideas on the bodykit? I cant figure out what kind of side skirt there is.

Well, ive been following and analyzing the social media stuff for a while now. It just gets worse and worse. I can now see the pattern they using and how they work with each other, how they talk and what they often talk about and show you in their videos. Almost everyone does the same thing basically, there are just stupid people watching it and think it's real and belive that they care about you as a viewer. The dream would be that one day, social media couldnt give you shit. But i cant stop laugh about how people just make aaannything to make money, so desperate its crazy. Worst kind of people

Yeah sorry, transfer case. So yes, there is one drain plug where at the location as your red ring are which i did not drain from cause i only drained from the one in my picture. So you dont have that drain plug? I havent seen anyone drain or even have that drain plug either. I guess i have to do some research and see for what reason there is a 2nd drain plug for the transfer case

(pic from google) I drained oil and filled oil were the plugs are in this picture. The other drain plug was right below of the shifter. The gearbox oil i filled and drained through the hoiles thats more in the middle of the gearbox that you can see in this picture also

Thank you guys. I really appreciate your help and support/thoughts.

Welcome!! Im new here also, and i belive forums are great. Much better than social media platforms. On social media platforms you usually have wannabes that do things only for likes, not for their passion.

When i was going to do a oil change on the front differetial of the r32 gtr, i took my finger in the drain plug hole and to see if there was metal flakes in there. By my suprise it felt like there was gravel in the bottom of the differential. I took some out and there wasnt gravel, it was like white small crystals in there.(looked like gravel first) If i rolled it between my fingers with some force it melt away or got crushed pretty easily. There has only been a little bit of oil in the bottom of the differential for a couple of years because the car has just been sitting and some oil were drained because of engine rebuild and axels replacement. I belive its just the oil and condensation/water that's in there, that created these small things that looks like small white stones/crystals, what do you think? Have you seen this before? I've worked with alot of car's but never experienced this. I was about to remove the diff cover but after removing all the 10 bolts, the cover still was glued on there hard as fu##. So i thought i could put some new oil in there, drive a few miles, then drain in and put some new in again maybe? I cant belive that the gears in there will take damage from this?

Changed some oils today.. MOTUL 300 in the gearbox, MOTUL ATF in the transfer case, Liquid moly hypoid in the front diff. I found a drain plug at the rear of the gearbox ( picture ). Which oil drains from there?? Could not find anything after a quick look in the manual. Drain plug for the gearbox is located more in the fwd direction, this one was aft.

The example regarding the fuelpump from Duncan is the procedure i've heard about before.

Are we talking 600 nomial hp or upper limit? Where's the lower limit you think i could go with the -5's? There is a older LINK G4 ECU i think. Well i dont know about that brushless controller or PWM with a SSR setup (never heard of) it, the only thing i've heard is that a mechanical relay and power from the battery is enough to make sure that the pump get's full voltage, If im going for PWM/SSR or Brushless controller i would need some more data about how to carrie out that procedure. Is there any information/documentations about the PWM/SSR setup? Why would i need a flow control signal to the fuel pump? Sorry, im really curious and want to understand and im not asking because i think it sounds stupid or anything.. wasting your life? Well, if you enjoy it you're not wasting shit.. If you dont, well why are you doing it. I wouldnt mind to get some more experience and put my head into the books/code/documentation if i knew where to start. #builtnotbought Thanks.

If there are -5 turbos in, i belive i will probably atleast need to go for around 400whp? Since this incrase in power i will need more fuel, so what steps are recommended here then? Fuelpump is planned, i dont know the injectors size yet but let's say they are oem. And for the fpr etc? Is there anything else i will need to think of to be able to run these figures with this turbos? I will contact my tuner for more details since he said that he had great results with these turbos. And as far as i can remember, there were -5 turbo installed.

Ok. I will clean them up and see how bad the actually are. Maybe a smaller repair is enough and better to keep them oem. Otherwise i know i guy i think i can send them over to, to replace the fabric and fix the foam. Where there any seats in these GTR that were black or something? Cause that would be easier to replace with black fabric, and still make it look as oem as possible. Okey, i will probably go for the OEM intake airbox then. Im not a fan of these aftermarket filters either. Well, i planning to fix the wire for the fuelpump because i've heard that the voltagedrop is too big on load and you wont get 12v at the pump. I've seen some instruction were you can but an realy back there and let the wire from the ignition trigger that relay instead and have wire the pump through the relay directly from the battery instead? since im planning to run about 400whp, it probably a good idea to replace the fuelpump and also the injectors and install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?

Well, i can only track the car milage back to 2006, and from there it seems ok. Idk about 50k miles but that's what the odometer say's atm.

Thanks. Okey, i will see what i can do with the seats there. They are dirty so i will clean them up first and go from there, then we just have the hole on the drivers seat that gets bigger beacuse your pants just keep chafing it. Maybe i let someone make a nice repair if the seats seems to be in better condition when cleaned. Planning to keep the car as long as possible,i have owned my other JDM for 10 years now and are not planning to sell for profit.. i love driving, espacially these cars. Is there any whp limit you guys go to before you should replace the oem intake airbox or should it be fine to run for up to 400whp? well, 50k miles idk.. but the odometer hasnt been touched since 2006 atleast, but before that i dont know. Yeah, i've checked the car for rust, there are rust were the jacking point are because someone has smashed them or jacked the wrong. Otherwise pretty clean, some small spots of rust at the rear fenders, but i will probably put the car to pieces as i did with my other car, and restore it completly anyway.. All the belts are replaced, i bought oil for ATESSA, transfercase, front diff, rear diff, gearbox so im planning to change these this week(motul and liquid moly). Im not sure about the ATESSA system cause i cant find a correct task for replacement of that oil. Transfercase seems like it's just as simple as gearbox and diffs. Im not sure how to replace the oil in the ATESSA system//resevoir in the boot. There is 2 bleed valves, one in the back at the pump and one located at the transfer case. As far as i understand from the guys in the forums is that you disc/connect the connector at r/h drivers foot behind the panel the make the pump going and also release the valve located at the transfer case to drain it from there. Meanwhile it drains out you keep filling it it with new until the new oil are comming out at the bleed valve. Also it seems like you have to make sure that you fill the bottom of the resevoir enough so that there only are like 5mm of air left at the top. Fuel filter is replaced, im planning to drop the tank as you said and replace the fuel pump also and also re-wire the system ( or put a relay as a trigger and run power from the battery to the pump ). Replace the Fuel lines. AAC valve has been removed and cleaned. Good idea, i will check what kind of coil packs is installed and also the wiring. I will check the other stuff you recommended also, thank you. I will run the dyno first thing, cause of the new aftermarket ECU, and also to make sure everything is alright. I dont know which size of turbo thats installed, but i think it is -5 actually, so maybe i will need to check which size of injectors installed also.

Hi! Just bought a R32 GT-R wich is pretty must oem with 50kmiles on it. The driver seat is worn, and there is a hole in it. So is there anyone who know the fabric/color code for these seats? Or am i stupid if i replace the cloth with something else like alcantara or leather etc and walk away from the oem fabric? As i said, this GT-R is pretty much oem, except engie internals and turbo upgrade. The intake airbox has been removed and replaced with HKS mushroom filters, i was thinking it could be a good idea to buy the oem intake airbox to make the car "complete" oem? or that maybe dosent matter (they were very expensive..) ? I will use the car, i will drive the car, but since i aldready have a heavly modified JDM car i thought i could just keep this on as oem as possible. Is there any must upgrade on these cars you recommend? Im planning on re-wire the fuelpump wiring since i've heard that it has a hard time to deliver full voltage to fuelpump. Im also planning to upgrade fuel pump. anything else that would be good to do before i put it on the road?