manlove891

Considering I get nothing with starting fluid I would say combustion issue isn't not enough fuel but maybe the cyl are still to wet to fire

Motor was locked. Will be doing comp test when i get back to my house, couldnt find my gauge.. I used the blow function on a shop vac to ensure exaust was not blocked. Put to pre turbo intake and plugging tb pipe I have 2 rb' so I have taken a second ignightor and tested. When plugs are grounded to the block on all 6 there is a strong spark no change in spark between ignightors. If the resistance pack is recieving power wouldnt that increase resistance and result in injectors spraying more fuel and adding oxygen. I'm at the point of diagnosing no combustion despite there being timing spark and fuel. One thing I'm seeing is I can crank for a solid 2 min pull the plugs and they are dry for the most part. Can someone tell me what the resistor is supposed to read on a meter? Is it powered? When I test mine it reads zero on ohms and volt

Spark is 100% just to be 200% I tested a second working one.

New battery- y Drain fuel- n Comp test-n (starter not strong enough to bend the rods) Change oil- no sign of water I'm at a lack of words on how it hydrolocked. I did have to pull the car up while the exaust was under water with water at about my back seat area. Stalled the car where I wanted it to stop. Not purposefully of course. Checking the water level on the pre turbo intake water never made it to the hole. As far as spraying into tb past throttle plate, that is where I have been spraying. Then poping the pipe back in really quick and trying to crank. The only sign of life I see is when I depress the pedal and cut the fuel, after turning over for a minute if feels like it sputters or gets easier turning like a cylend or 2 is firing. I think my next steps are going to be replace fuel and pull the plugs and let it air out for a day or so.. no combustion is either not enough air or not enough fuel. If that doesn't give me any combustion then I have a bad ecu or my firing sequence is wrong. Is there any known wiring difference between the 2 mt ecu's 4u00 and 4u01? Would the jecs resistor not having power cause less fuel to spray from the injectors?

so i was messing around with the timing. gas pedal pressed all the way after like crank 6 it started to sputter but it did not start, atleast i have some sign of life. maybe i just need to go over timing in depth and just let it crank on a full charge with the pedal to the floor

ive not sprayed while cranking as i am alone, i suppose i could jump the starter and do it. sprayed the intake, pop the pipe back on and turn it over is the process i followed. going to do a compression test before the day is out just to rule out compression loss as a factor. do i need a leakdown test for valves or will valves be included in the compression? the engine was hydro locked upon first start from flood,fluid in cyl #6. i do not believe it was water, i believe it was locked with gas. engine was not run at all while the water started to come in. but cranking a locked engine can bend a valve if im not mistaken. if thats the case i can grab the valves off the rb im building in my living room.

i almost feel like its hard to turn over too, turbo did have a little water in it. do you think my compressor possibly froze from getting water in it? i dont have a second person but i put some stuff in the tailpipe to see if its pushing air out on crank and it didnt move. if i put a shop wav to the turbo via any port i can only get the exhaust pipe to suck in not blow out

ive pulled all 6 plugs and verified spark by grounding to metal and spinning the cas. rb20det wontfire/cough, only turnover - Page 2 - Nissan Forum | Nissan Forums (nicoclub.com) this is my nico forum that has been more active so there might be more info here. this is where we are. fuel- y spark- y ecu code- 55 zero combustion what so ever. engine was running when parked then it flooded. theoretically it should only be electrical problems. ecu was replaced and is working however i do not know if it is functioning correctly as i have fuel spark and timing done.

grabbed a flash light and i can see mist on cyl 1 and 6 when i spin the cas so i am getting gas. 100% getting spark. no combustion though. when i put the plugs in it almost seems hard to turn over. im so lost with this car right now

it would be almost impossible for the compression to be out as the engine was off during the flood. i have a strong feeling that its not getting the gas into the combustion chamber. cant smell it in there cant find it in there and cant see it in there. however when i pull the injectors off the block they do spray gas out. yes cams are turning, the key is not broken so i can only assume it spins with the key but i cant see it while inserted so im going to say 90% cas is turning yes afm got wet. water was about an inch and a half from going into the intake so no water went into the cylinders. theoretically i should be able to unplug the afm and still get it to start rough or in limp. i will most likely do a compression because ive not done it before on this block.

i put a socket extension down each cylinder and spun the cas, all injectors clicking but no gas on the extension

ecu code is 55 as well

could really use an rb god right about now..... can someone please list any fuses relays or sensors i should check. will crank but no fire. spark has been verified, fuel does squirt when not on the block, cas is properly functioning the injectors and the sparkies when key spindle is spun.im out of ideas as to why this thing wont fire.

lets start back at the basics, air- good fuel- good spark-good for electrical can someone walk me through the basics of what and how to check? Top

engine oil has no water in it at the stick, no discoloration or anything. have not checked tranny and dif. prob wont mess with the diff and tranny till i can get this to start again, unless the tranny has a sensor that would preven start due to water. i will also note the car has been dry for about a week now.