RTED

All series 2 running gear and brakes etc. as per factory 3Rd owner FMIC 400r front Unichip piggy back ecu dual stage electronic boost control 3" exhaust from dump Air pod ( enclosed) heavy duty clutch ( new) New Splitfire coil packs ( made huge difference! ) Bryant AA02 alarm system 17" wheels 235/40/17 front 255/40/17 rear Good NSW Rego 102530 Klms 100 k service done $18500.00

Went and got rid my classic big block ford powered 68 ute and jumped into one of these SH%$box Skylines

Thanks for the information. No I haven't had it on a dyno or anyone tune the car according to the "mods" as firstly i haven't had it that long and the chap I bought it from had supposedly had it "tuned" not long before i got it. So I am still going through the process of elimination at the moment. All the information is helpfull for a better understanding of this particular setup as there are lot of similar examples. Have ordered an 02 sensor will try that. Biggest problem is no-one able to tune car where I am, No dyno or alternate technology. Have to make a trip to ACT I'm guessin. My next step maybee to fit the M24 Garrett and have tuned to this configuration.What do you think? Garrett A/R .53 .64 From Diesel Navara. ( factory Nissan )

I said that is wasn't at full operating temp NOT dead cold. I agree with your dead cold scenario.this example is after warming the car up stationary for at least 5 mins. Only di#$%^eads give it heaps cold. The scenario I gave was to enlighten everyone that the problem is not temperature sensative only. There are a few variables to consider The surge is primarily low to mid boost not high! Doesn't feel like compressor surge as i can manipulate the car into showing compressor surge . was heaps worse before replacing the coilpack and plugs so this seems to be a step in the right direction. I work with a well educated turbo technician whose call is not the turbo.

Could be? But will it create these symptoms?

Setup is as follows: unichip piggyback / stock ecu large fmic / std intake and T/B apexi pod filter enclosed 3" exhaust from dump pipe stock turbo/ afm electronic dual stage variable boost control ( unknown brand ) hyper something. I assume std injectors and fuel pump? More recently ( say the last 6 weeks) the hesitation is apparent at low boost setting when the engine is not up to full operating temp/ :at the same temp it seems to run better with a bit more boost. Boost variance on the guage is .5 STD up to 1.0/1.1 bar at full boost. The hesitation is mainly apparent at around 3750 rpm, either progressive throttle or mashing the pedal makes no difference. The hesitation appears as you go through the revs from low to higher revs as it spools up. Probably is a bit more severe as you wind up the boost. Sorry to sound vague but I haven't driven the car a hell of a lot since purchase only 3 months ago. Thanks for your help. Have done a basic check of most ancilleries and all seems good!

Platinum plugs fitted 100 klm ago Car definately runs better. Have not had the car long and still learning. Still has a bit of a surging feeling coming onto boost, just doesn't power on cleanly. The exhaust temp sensor was not fitted after the previous owner fitted a 3" system, so i reinstalled into exhaust on Saturday. Drove Saturday arvo no noticeable difference. Drove sunday and power was down and hesitation was worse and it also felt like is was surging on cruise like it was way lean? No detonation anywhere, Exhaust colour appears lighter, Definately less C0 so what gives?

The HC sensor which should be fitted after the cat is not fitted. Obviously the bloke before me didn't have it refitted with the big exhaust. It does use a fair amount of fuel and soots up the rear bar. What are the ramifications of this sensor not being connected???? Should i just refit and try or replace the o2 sensor at the same time??????

Has anyone purchased from ( toofast2furious ) advertised in a lot of magazines, their t3/t4 hybrid ballbearing wet 550 hp unit. It is supposed to be a bolt on replacement for rb25det. If any good what sort of increase in power output? For $850.00 appears good value. I have already a garret m24 done 30000 klms from a diesel Navara. Would this be a better choice? Std injectors and fuel system FMIC Dual stage boost control Cold air intake Good exhaust system Splitfires Std ecu with unichip Car goes really well as is but like everyone else NEED MORE!

Could be numerous things: try these. 1st check/replace spark plugs 2nd whilst engine is cold,spray some crc around the intake manifold around the suspect cylinder to check for vacuum leaks. If engine increases rpm you have a gasket leak. 3rd compression test . Hope this helps.

Have you tried adjusting the tps? When it runs smoothly what idle rpm have you got. You have nothing to lose by adjusting the tps to lower the idle rpm if too high or vise versa to around 650/700 at idle. If tps is out of sinc it will give erratic readings and create hunting idle quality.

Post me some timeslips from Willowbank and some more accurate specs on driveline THANKS.

I am in a remote area without hicas lock bar at any local wheel align shops. What can be done for alignment Thanks

CAN YOU GIVE ME NENGUNS PHONE NUMBER PLEASE. I NEED A SET OF DIS-005 URGENTLY THANKS.

Chasing some suspension for r33 gtst. what you got

How hard do they ride and what height adjust do they have. Can you please measure from centre of wheels to lip of guards front and back please and let me know i may be interested. Thanks.

My R33 sits too low ( courtesy of previous owner) and has scrubbed out a new set of rears in less than 4000 klms on the insides. Is it the ride height or not enough adjustment in camber. Only had the car a month. Rides on 255/40/17 Thanks.

Sorry i did mean 50 mm The reason for this question is that currently my 33 is sitting about 10mm above the tyre 235X45X17 with what i think are gas axe lowered stds and it rides like S@#$. Also has a very low front bar which is only a few inches off the ground. I want to raise it maybee another 10mm and have a nice ride or get rid of the front bar for a standard which i have on the way. Std height from centre hub to lip of guard is 390>410 mm. My setup measures 340mm which leaves 10mm between tyre and lip as it sits now. If your setup will height adjust another 30>40mm they might do the trick. can you pm pics please. Thanks again

Why are you selling with so little use? What version is it? Thanks

Are they CS version? What spring and shock rate are they? chasing a setup for everyday driving and not too hard. Thanks.

Chasing some coilovers of the softer variety for road use. Or any alternatives that will offer variable height or is already a bit lower than STD.

With an automotive loan, you are required to take out comp insurance on any mortgaged property ( the car ) as the car is the security. To qualify for a personal loan you must display affordability and a proven repayment plan of some form of previous payment, or be assett backed. ( home owner/buyer ) if you don't supply a certificate of currency for a secured loan you will not be approved . As for insurance!!!!!! There is a matter of whats called (duty of disclosure) meaning if you do not list all and any mods and accessories to the enth degree ANY insurer can and will decline to honour any claim made for whatever reason. These parameters are not negotiable from lenders and insurers. Pay the money and get the correct coverage or change vehicles to a lesser risk vehicle.

Still got bar for sale ?

Can they be adjust for more height? want about 50 cm more How hard is the ride? Thanks.

Checked all hoses and fittings and are all in good shape????? What next?